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John-T-53

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Everything posted by John-T-53

  1. John-T-53
    That's a lot of shaving. But you definitely don't want to be wider than longer, nor be scraping the sides of tunnels, lol.... Too bad about the house cat. Down one, up two. You'll have to build a kitty tunnel connecting the house, shop, and shop annex... ?
  2. John-T-53
    I think I missed this, but what is the reason for converting the rear suspension over the bags? Softer ride over the leafs? Also, I'm taking stock of those rear wheel beauty rings...those are probably very unique given how deep they are. Do the new cats signify that the previous cat on the house side eventually met its demise?
  3. John-T-53
    Interesting idea. Why is it going down there? And will there be any concerns about rocks hitting it? ? EDIT: I see now. Looking at the pics of the radiator, you already have two radiators up front and not much room left before they hit the grill. Is the front radiator an Oil cooler? Forgive my ignorance, lol.
  4. John-T-53
    The oiling system is important. I checked back through my photos of the pump rebuild 10 years ago, and I did all the internal deburring, checking, and honed the end plate like this bloke did. However, I didn't upgrade to ARP fasteners so I guess I'm a slacker, LOL.
  5. John-T-53
    Wow, that guy goes nuts.
  6. John-T-53
    Either way you will have to hone the cylinders to get the pistons to fit just right (about 0.002" clearance). If the bores are already .020" over you might have to home to .040" as cylinder wear is not usually uniform. You don't sleeve a motor unless it's a last resort. You need new pistons and probably a full rebuild if you're in that deep. Bearings, bushings, valves, crank grind, etc. The size you hone the cylinders up to is usually determined after the block is pulled and each cylinder carefully measured. Then you will know what size they will be after machining.
  7. John-T-53
    I forget, were you going to use the right side dash opening as well?
  8. John-T-53
    ?
  9. John-T-53
    Putin is at it again....
  10. John-T-53
    is DPETCA still a functioning item, in terms of a "club"? What are some of y'all's thoughts on combining the two sites and placing all of that knowledge on this site?
  11. John-T-53
    El perro de Chile tenía mucha energía!
  12. John-T-53
    Not yet, thanks for the reminder. I have yet to install a Baldwin filter as I am missing the internal parts to make the canister work with that type. Maybe next year....
  13. John-T-53
    AWESOME!
  14. John-T-53
    When assembling a motor, the lifters are the second thing that gets installed, after the cam bearings. They're in deep!
  15. John-T-53
    Are you gonna get that redhead to come back and pose with the model now? I'd suggest it...
  16. John-T-53
    Here ya's go...
  17. John-T-53
    https://www.doorhardwarecenter.com/hardware-brands/schlage/commercial-door-hardware/schlage-a-series-knobs/a-series-keyed-knobs/a-series-entrance-knobs/schlage-a53pd-tul-tulip-keyed-entrance-door-knob-set/ Your old one looks like the Schlage A series "Tulip" style knob. I just got a lockset from the site linked above this week. The A series is commercial grade, grade 2 lock. You can get in different functions, such as entrance lock, classroom lock, store room, and passage....etc. with 'C' keyway.
  18. John-T-53
    I recommend not doing anything that would render future adjustments impossible. I doubt you could unscrew that without removing the valve (and head). You also won't be able to get it clean enough (and keep it clean) to use thread locker, while assembled and readjusting. Perhaps try unscrewing it as far as possible and wrapping a few turns with PTFE thread tape, that might help bind it up a bit.
  19. John-T-53
    Does the center splined hub stick further out on one side?
  20. John-T-53
    I don't recall anyone rebuilding motors on here, but could have missed that. The core you could take down to a local radiator shop and have it recored. They will replace the old V-cell core with a modern style tube and fin core....
  21. John-T-53
    Sounds like sort of a 'jab'..... good thing I'm not on bookface.
  22. John-T-53
    A rod knock will sound just like that....a knock, and you can sometimes feel it. Usually only makes the noise when under load. A "tick" is more likely a tappet coming out of adjustment. And will make the sound at idle and load.
  23. John-T-53
    I used self-adhered foam tape.
  24. John-T-53
    I replaced my original pedal with a Roberts one back in 2008, plus or minus a year. Now it has come time to replace it again due the the rubber at the lower ball studs deteriorating. It has been in regular use all these years.
  25. John-T-53
    And a what looks like a one ton pickup and a Suburban. Not sure what that other step van is? I see an International pickup too.
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