John-T-53

Hi Matt, Wow, you're still working on your engine. They do take a lot of effort, and yes, life tends to put truck projects on hold. Yes, it was me that sent you to Armando since he moved to Emory, TX after having his business in San Mateo, CA (where he ground mine), sharing a shop with Cardelli Motorsports. That's awesome that he was able to repair your fillets, that must have been a lot of work. Anyway, Armando's crank is still pluggin' away in my engine and haven't had any problems. I probably have over 20k miles on it so far, not sure of the exact amount. At 65 mph my RPM is slightly over 2k... I think 2200. It's a comfortable cruising RPM whatever it is. The pistons I had coated by HM Elliott in NC. It was only a few tenths thick, just a friction-improving coating I think. It's baked on. They also have buildable coatings if you need to make up space, from what I recall. Good luck.

I see the chamfer - is the bore below the chamfer larger than the valve stem for a short section, or is it the same ID all the way through? I sourced new guides from SBI (though the machine shop's supplier) about 10 years ago... I can't remember the exact reason for the counter bore, think it was to create an air cushion which acts like a "seal" since there are no stem seals on these engines. Your valve seat contact looks perfect.

Sounds like you have the wrong guides. How bout some photos? There should be a counter bore, not just a chamfered end as you describe. The counter bore aligns with the step on the valve stem. All guides are same design, exhaust counter bore up, intake counter bore down. There are stem clearance specs that need to be set correctly - whether using a reamer or guide hone, and there are specs for how far down from the deck they are installed.

Interesting door contact idea... what's the reasoning for the contacts vs. conduit w/wiring? I guess the only downside is inoperable windows unless the door is closed, which isn't an issue really. The contacts are a lot cleaner. Maybe I just answered my q....

Perhaps Wildcat Auto in Oregon? Someone on here may have an extra manifold too...post a "wanted" ad... @48Dodger

If there were scans of shop manuals, etc, I would guess 50 - 100 mb at least per file, depending on quality.... * funk *

You allowed a Muthstang in there? for F sake...

If FEF is to be showcased in this new building, you need to a full height mirrors on the walls, directional lighting, and a checkered VCT floor.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-to-articles/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html This is the ticket right here for old single stage paints. It's a lengthy write up, but lots of good info. How did that C-body's paint turn out so far?

He's one of them folk from that goofy state north of here....

Brent is BACK!

What brand is the new pump and where did you get it? The box it came in should state where it was made.... That ball is just to direct incoming fuel through the sediment bowl, it wouldn't affect the pumping aspect. If the pump's not pumping, it's a valve or diaphragm issue most likely. Or blocked lines.... I've heard that a place called "Then and Now" rebuilds both old and new pumps and has a good reputation....

Here's the same in color that I came across today too.... I'd guess that this was a "decorative only" truck but I see an engine under the hood....

3. Teflon tape or any thread sealant only works on the pipe threads between the brass fitting and the block or canister. Otherwise, the flare fittings between the brass fittings and the lines don't need any sealant. 4. The felt is not a gasket, more of a "diaper" to catch leaks from the leaking main seal. When the felt is soaked, it does no good. The rear main seal may need replacement, and if the crank is grooved or otherwise worn where the seal rides, then it will always leak moderately. Only way to fix that is to weld the crank.

Get one of your B-bodies on the road for a future show, that would make an awesome 2500 mile pilgrimage!

I noticed that. Spent a lot of time in the swap meet looking for one arm rest for my truck and the only parts that I found that would fit were a very nice set of 16 x 6" wheels (which I wanted, but no way to take them back with me). ?

You won't be disappointed. It's overwhelming. Only negative is the heat + humidity, but you're used to that.

More pics.... These were over by the malaise era section. Including a Plymouth Trail Duster:

Here are some of the trucks spotted at this year's Carlisle.... my first time at this event. If it was made by Mopar, it was here. Even K Kars and Sebrings, lol. I really liked this 1955 C-series with the 'Poly' V8.

It looks like an original rear end. That's not an 8-3/4 - those have their two top bolts closely spaced as shown in the photo below (with a 489 case).

Awesome, thanks. Nice truck!

I'm guessing that these go at the bottom of window opening in door....do they curve up at the ends? Anyone have photos? I have no such fuzzy strip... just the fuzzy in the channels.

Bakersfield, CA - 1952, after the earthquake. The Beale tower was damaged and later demolished. @Jim Shepard

I just used the crank bolt itself to push the pulley on....

There was a guy on here from OK who's truck had a similar look....the color at least.