47heaven

That's how mine loked exactly after it was coated inside the tank six years ago. Now, the coating is desinigrating.

Ok, Tim...here are the findings from my investigation into all of this. Though the fuel pump in question was bad, due to the way it fell apart when I took it out, I went ahead and had to buy another mechanical fuel pump so I could get the car to a place to repair it beause I am not allowed to work on my car where I live (condo association). So, I took it to a buddy of mine and we put on the new pump. Bam! Started right up. This was two weeks ago. Yesterday, while I was driving, the car cut out on me, as if it ran out of gas...just like the previous time. I was able to coast off of the freeway and exit at the next exit. I know I hadn't run out of gas because I had just filled it half way. First thing I did was check the fuel filter, and it was empty. I looked under the car and the glass bowl on the fuel pump was full...just as it was last time. I couldn't believe that the new fuel pump had gone out already, so I thought. Anyway, had to get towed back home and this morning when I took off the pump (with the garage door closed), I noticed this floating in the glas bowl. I believe it may be the coating that I had put into the gas tank back when I bought the car. It looks as if it's desinigrating and flaking apart. The guy that coated it said it would not break up and flake away. I noticed also in the bowl of the other pump that the same stuff was in there. So, now all that coating is desinigrating and breaking up. So apparently that is what's clogging the line. Is till want to put in an electric fuel pump, but with the tank situation it would just do the same thing. What do you suggest I do? I can take it back to him, but hell if I know where that receipt is. I saw the new gas tank on Ebay, which is nice, but kinda out of the price range. I don't know about trying to salvage the tank I have because before it was coated it was rusty, and I think that's starting to surface again, as well. Anyone else is free to chime in with suggestions.

In other words, do I blow on the line leading into the pump or can I blow on it from where it goes into the fuel filter.

Tim...where do I blow on the line from?

Hey, guys...hope everyone is doing well. Got a fuel pump issue that I need some help sorting out. First, I did do a search on my particular issue, but to no avail, so I'm trying to get it solved and fixed today on my day off. Problem: Car stalled for no reason. Thought it had run out of gas, which could have been a possibilty because the gas gauge has stopped working, again. Put about four gallons of gas in the tank, but the engine just kept turning over without any ignition. Did a test to see if I was getting any spark with a couple of plug wires and they were sparking fine..so, that eliminated any electrical issue. Fuel pump bowl and gas filter still had gas in them. Tried to pour a little gas down the carb to see if maybe I could get it to start thinking that maybe the gas needed to make it's way to the pump. Engine started, ran for a couple seconds and stalled. Tried this a couple times...with no positive outcome. Took off the top of the carburator and bowl was completely dry. So, fuel pump bowl and gas filter have gas in them, but carb bowl is empty, which only seems logical that the pump isn't working...correct? Now, this is the second pump that I have had problems with in five years. I'm at the point now that I'm giving up hope on the mech. fuel pumps that are manufactured today...at least the ones through Napa and Auto Zone. I'm leaning more towards reliability rather than originality, especially since I am planning to travel longer distances in the P15. So my question is who has converted from mech. pump to electric, and how have the results been since? Are you happy with the conversion or did you like the mech. pump better? What is a good brand electrical pump for our cars that are dependable and put out the recommended pressure.

Let's just say I'm putting in a quart every two weeks. Too much leaking for me, not to mention $$$ to waste

The main seal is starting to show signs of leaking, which I think would be kind of odd for only being on the engine for four years. I don't know what brand seal was installed when the engine was rebuilt, but apparently it wasn't a good one if it's leaking now. So, since it looks like main seal replacement will be in the works in the upcoming few months, what manufactuer or brand do you recommend that's been known for better quality and having longer life?

Quick! Shoot it, put it out of it's misery and bury it! What an atrocity!

When I was restoring my P15 about four years ago, I bought and installed a new electric 2-speed wiper motor. It worked great at both speeds. About two weeks ago, I was driving and the wipers just turned on automatically by themselves. I tried to turn them off, but to no avail. I would turn the switch on the slow speed position and then to the fast. When I switched to off, they still stayed working at slow speed. I finally had to pull the fuse to shut them off. When I was testing them, I noticed that after 10 mins. they would shut off, but after a while they would go back on. Anyone have an idea to what could be causing this?

All right...fixed the problem. I don 't know the technical names of the parts of the car involved because I couldn't find a proper exploded version of where the problem was, so I'm going to explain it the best I can. What we found out is that there is a link or lever that controls reverse that cradles in between two things on the shifting shaft. When I forced the shift into reverse, the reverse linkage popped out of the cradle. It took a while to figure that out because we really had no good diagram to go by, but finally it made sense. We also adjusted the shifting arm so it now sits at the 4 o'clock position while in 1st or third, as depicted in Don's pic above. Bushings seem to be okay, as the car now shifts very well...almost like new. Thanks again to those of you that gave your input and advice.

I guess when they say to never take your anger out on your car, they mean it. Was out this last weekend and couldn't get the P15 to go into reverse (I had been having issues with it before, but it would eventually find it's way in). So, I got mad and tried to force/jam it in, and by doing so, I heard a pop and then shifter went into reverse position, but when I let the clutch out, it started to go forward as if it was in a low gear like 3rd. I couldn't get reverse anymore. Here's what I have as a result of my stupidness: Reverse now works as 3rd gear 1st is now works as 3rd gear 2nd gear is still works as 2nd gear 3rd gear still is 3rd gear. In order to drive the car, I have to start in 2nd gear and then shift to 3rd. I can still shift into 1st and reverse but they no longer function as those gears, only as 3rd. The shifter is sloppy and lose. The shifting shaft mounting that connects the shaft to the stearing column broke loose from it's weld. The car was stationary when this happened There is no grinding sound in the transmission. The car still does shift into each gear, but it's very sloppy and lose. A friend and I are going to work on it this Wednesday, but need to have some kind of understanding of what we are looking for, first. Can anyone give some troubleshooting advice on what may have happened, given all the things I've mentioned already? Just need to have some starting point. Thanks, Darin

You know what guys...I don't see this on my car. I wonder if it even has a fuse.

Won't be able to get into trouble shooting until tomorrow, but I did do some looking around and I noticed that the plunger that usually sticks out of the kickdown switch was stuck inside the housing. So I freed it up and put som white grease on it so that it wouldn't stick anymore. I thought maybe that was the problem. So I took the car for a spin and tried the O/D and nothing. (The overdrive will freewheel when engaged, but not kick in, nor make any sound like it wants to). So the hung up kickdown switch is off the list of possibilities, I guess I don't see any relay on the firewall, but there is something on the side wall that I assume is the relay because a purple wire that goes from it goes to the O/D system either the coil or the kickdown switch, from what I can tell. (see pic). This object looks pretty old and I'm sure is the original, whatever it may be. The purple wire you see in the pics is what seems to be the color wire used for connecting the O/D to the relay, kickdown and coil. Also looked under the car at the overdrive and saw where the purple wire connected onto the solenoid. It looked pretty oily down there, which is mainly coming from my oil filter because the gasket ring doesn't fit the best. The connections feel tight, but I will go down there tomorrow and clean things up, as well as the connections. Maybe the oil has worked it's way in between the connections. BTW, if that is the relay I have pictured, how does it come apart? It looks like a sealed unit. Would it be better to buy a new one?

Don, the battery and the alternator are fairly new. So the charging system should be okay. I mean, nothing else seems to be affected from what I can tell. I had the alternator tested earlier this year when I though that might have been the cause of car stalling problem, and it tested great. Guys...as far as the what oil weight is in there...I have no idea because I had it put in when I had the car lubed last year. I mean, I can check and see if it's low, but I haven't noticed any leaking from it lately. I'm going to check the connections today and make sure nothing is lose or corroded before I come to the conlusion that it's more of an internal problem. I just had the solenoid replaced earlier this year with a supposedly good used one I ordered from in San Diego. When I had it tested before it was installed, I was told it was working great. I really hoping that it's not that because it cost me $80. What are the signs of a malfunctioning govenor switch?

This is what I'm thinking too, Kevin. Again, do you know where the fuses to it are located?

Most of it is what I feel when I let off the gas, not what I hear. The feeling of letting off the gas in third geer with o/d engaged is a lot different then how it feels when it's not, if that makes sense. So I know that some connection is made, but nothing is engaging. I do recall though the exact moment it went out for good, and that was when I was in overdrive and ready to enter a freeway onramp. I was still in third when I made the turn and then I hit the accelerator, the engine reved kinda high, but there was no power, so I down shifted to second and regained speed, then into third and when I entered the freeway, I let off the accelerator, and nothing. I tried numerous times, but it wouldn't engage. So I got off the freeway and drove side streets. I don't know. Maybe it was something I did, when I was getting on the freeway?

Well, guys...last time I posted on here I was having problems with the car motor cutting out. It did turn out to be the ignition switch. So that has been solved with a temporary one right now until I can buy the correct one for it when I have the money. My new problem is a little hang up with the overdrive not engaging. It first started a couple months back with it not engaging without a few attemps of letting off the accelerator until it kicked in. Now, it won't even engage at all. I can tell the system is ready to kick in when I let off the accelorater, but nothing happens. I was reading on here that it could be a fuse that has gone out, but where are the fuses for these located? I would like to troubleshoot and see if that may be the problem, unless it may be something else that someone on here can tell just by what I have mentioned. Thanks, Darin

Try to find the metal white wall beauty rings. They show up on Ebay periodically. I have them on mine and those things never come off.

Yeah...I just saw his price. WOW! But I gotta find something because I can't keep driving it like this. No, the original is not in place anymore. I just have the temp one hanging by the wires. The temp switch and a couple wires got real hot this evening and was shorting out a little, so I think a couple of the wires are loose. I'll tighten them when I can see better tomorrow.

Joe...no, I didn't find one yet, but I have been using one like the one you showed me from Napa. I haven't stalled yet, and I have been driving it for two weeks. The only thing is, like the one you have linked, it's too short to fit into the hole where the original switch fits into in the switch panel. I tried to take out the innards of the switch from the back, but they won't budge. It rocks back and forth a little, but won't slide out. I think it's shot...period! I've seen a couple on Ebay, but they look to be in worst condition. Does Bernbaum sell those?

Can it still be restored back to original?

If it's shorting out, what would the tumbler have to do with it? It would be more internal, right?

Well, I didn't want to say it, but the car has gone back to stalling again. I thought it had been fixed when I changed the gas cap, and it seemed to be that way for a month, but now it's back to the same 'ol crap. So I'm just going down the list of things you guys mentioned that it could be. Evidently, I had that ignition switch tested today at a local hot rod shop and it tested to be a good switch, still. The guy there just couldn't understand why my car will stall and not be able to start up again until I turn the switch off and back on. If I don't turn it off, first, it will just crank over like it's getting no spark. I talked to Tom at Stovebolt and he told me that in many cases, like mine, it turns out to be the ignition switch. He told me that if that wasn't it then it could be the coil...mainly the pick up coil inside the distributor. He also mentioned that if the wiring during the installation of the HEI was crimped instead of soldered, which I think it was because the guy that installed it didn't read English, that could cause problems, too. A friend of mine, who is a good mechanic, is telling me to take out the Stovebolt and slip in a Pertronix instead. I paid $180 for the Stovebolt back in 2007 and it had been doing well until a year or so ago, but I would rather keep it and see if it can be fixed instead of doing away with it. What I'm going to do now is hook up the aftermarket ignition switch I got from Napa and drive it for a few days. If it doesn't stall, then it's the switch. If it does, then I have to move on to the wires and or coil, I guess.

Already went by there, but they had nothing. It came from a harness kit I bought at the Pomona Car Swapmeet about 4-5 years ago and I had them install it. As I said before, I don't remember the name of the company.

LOL! I'm not going to debate it, Randy, even though it's a political issue. Yes, still friends, but I just don't like Obama, and though this is great news, Osama has more to take his place. I think Obama will use this as a perk towards his re-election campaign. Again, just my opinion, which we are still allowed to have, I believe.