Jerry Roberts

" Spent quite a bit of time online & at parts stores trying to find an oil filter . . . tuns out it probably doesn't have one " Your oil filter canister is near the rear of the engine , up high on the drivers side , and can be seen in your photos . Very nice car and the paint even shines under all of that dust . Like this

Yes , to sleeve it they would bore it out and then put a new sleeve in it to bring it back to it's original inside diameter .

If it has only a little very light rust you can get by with a kit . if you see pits , get a new one or have your existing master cylinder sleeved as Dodgeb4ya mentioned . If you decide to get it sleeved , it will be done in stainless or brass and the next time that it goes out you can just put in a kit for sure .

There were some previous posts on a problem with the starters of the later engines not fitting the earlier bell housings . Even a mention of cutting the starter housing down to make it fit . Sorry I don't have anything more specific .

See how it extends into the freeze plug , I wonder if that really is a crack or just a scratch .

A vacuum gauge usually also has a scale for reading fuel pump pressure . Also a fuel pressure regulator is a common item that can be installed between the pump and the carby .

Sometimes there is a very small leak at a fitting that doesn't show up well .

" Yea I saw that too. Is there a diagram showing which studs use the conical washer and nut? Or do they all use the same thing? " The conical washers with tapered nuts go on the two outermost exhaust flanges . You can see one nut and washer in Don Coatney's post .

I see that you can get the whole set for $60 or the 4 nuts and washers for $40 . From VPW 2016 catalog .

The little dust cover shown in Brent's link is also shown in Bernbaum's catalog for trucks 1939 - 1956 for $9 . They are a very durable ABS plastic and not rubber . My floor mat is cut tight to the transmission tower as Dodgeb4ya mentioned and is works out well . The tiny boot that is sold for the parking brake lever is a joke and doesn't nearly cover the long area , I grabbed a boot from an old chevy truck shifter in the wrecking yard to use on the parking brake lever and it covers pretty well but I haven't decided yet to fasten it down to the floor or not . When you are doing all of your lubrication points remember to put a couple drops of oil under the dust cover of the transmission tower , that is an easy one to forget .

The nylon might melt in the nylocks from the heat of the exhaust manifold . Vintage Power wagons sells the correct nuts and washers .

Here is a photo from MACS of their boots . MacsAutoParts.com

Chris , You do know that the exhaust manifold should be held on with special tapered conical washers that pinch the special slotted nuts . This arrangement serves as locking nuts on the ends of the manifold .

Here is what I understand about collapsed radiator hoses ; It is the bottom radiator hose that has the coiled wire to keep it from collapsing and the way to tell if it is collapsing is to rev the engine and look at the hose . The top hose doesn't need a coiled wire . I don't know why your top hose is collapsed .

If you lubricate the metal a little and slip the new seal in place , you might be able to get an idea if there is enough pressure from the rubber to make a good seal when you smooth out the existing surface . Just thinking out loud .

A Zoom Spout Oiler has a flexable telescoping nozzle to reach those difficult applications . They are often used to oil furnace motor bearings .

You can put a very small screwdriver into the speedometer where the cable goes and give it a spin . The needle should move .

This row of sockets in the front are used to drive square headed bolts or square nuts . The set is 1/2 inch drive .

When I was reading up on Henry Ford , the book said that he made a lot of his fasteners an odd size so that he could sell his own make of tools .

" Would love to have a temp control valve on the inlet heater hose. Can anyone suggest a good after-market set-up out there? Thanks. " I looked at a lot of temp control valves at the wrecking yard and the best one I found was on a Toyota truck , about 1989 year . It has a lot of plastic parts but the other valves that I saw were all rusted out . It has served me well for years .

Reg is talking about an easy test to do with the engine NOT running . From your response it is not clear that you understand that . Your answer could be understood ether way .

My book calls for either MCH-6101 or MCH-6201 for 1951 Dodge . My book only goes through 1951 .

On the heads that I have seen , the head is marked HEATER right at that spot .

Sometimes the old head gaskets are marked with their brand and perhaps a number .

The next time that it overflows , take the top off the carb and see where the fuel level is .