desoto1939

SAM: Yes the brakes inmy 39 Desoto are ok. But as I stress to other antique car owners that when you get out of your modern car that have power disc brakes and power assit and all of the great new inventions for creature comfort and then you get into your antique car that is 50-80 years old technology you have to think for a minute or two and put your mind into thinking what you are driving and how the car reacts to the driving conditions. You have to be prepared for a stop or situations at all times yes it is a leasurely drive but have to be watching the traffic conditions and traffic signals with more attention. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

another good thing to get for your specific distributor is a NOS breaker plate. The breaker plate contains the moving upper and lower plate that has the wires, condenser, points. Since these units are NOS it is just a matter of taking out two screws and then replacing the entire unit and then resetting the points. The take your old breaker plate and rebuilt it with the same NOS parts to have as a spare. Tellme you dizzy number IGS or IGT and the digits after that and I will tell you the proper breaker plate to look for. Carry the rebuilt unit in your tool box in the car. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Ask NAPA for an Airtex fuel pump tell them it is the same as the AC588 Also the Chrysler dodge and Plymouth all used the same 588 fuel pump from approx. 39-50's rich hartung

Mark, Rich Hartung go back and ask them for a FP number 588. Also take a picture of your FP with you. Here isa picture of a 588 fuel pump for your car this is also used in my 39 desoto. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com 588 was used from 38 52 for all 6 cylinder desoto and also Chrysler. The new guys at NAPA have no knowledge of what pumps fits what car you need to tell them now all they know is how to search the current inventory via the computer and if it is not in the computer they have no idea.l

Zach do you have a battery charger and do you a a 6v volt battery charger. Hook the positive lead to the body of the horn and the negative to the screw that attached the origina wire screw the screen into the horn and put the neg clip up to the screw to see if you get any sound. If yes then you knoe the horn work. There is a point in the center near the little nut and the slot is the adjsutment to the point only a little movement up or down it will take some time. If you can not get any sound keep trying. Since the horn relay seems to be working it could be diry points or out of adjustment. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I agree but with some of the MoPars as I explained in the above posting the high/low movement is a left to right movement with the original style 2331 headlight bulbs. So with your diagram from above the you still might have to move the socket or rotate it so that the bulb is in the correct orientation to get the headlight lens to properly send the beam correctly to being either high or low beam. You need to check your lens and current bulb to make sure that you have any modifications made to get the correct beam. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

did don tell you the replacement headlight sockets were junk or someone else. If you can not get originals then the aftermarket is the best that you can do or purchase a NOS headlight wireing harness for each light witht he appropriate sockets. These will run you well over $100 each. I have a couple witht he spring and sockets but not cheap. Contact Don for a price on the headlight sockets I got some from here several years ago and they were of good quality. Rich Hartung

you can purchase a general 12v tining light and it will work on your 6v positive grounded car. all you have to do is just switch the alligator clips. the red clip would then be you ground clip and the black would be power clip and hook the sparkplug wire black box the the number 6 sparkplug wire and then go time the car. This is a good tool tohave does not have to be the most expensive unit it is just a light to shine down on the pulley where the timing marks are. Much simplere than the other ways that were discussed. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

greg, question sinc e the diff vent goes through the brake blocke connector why would you then need to rebleed the brakes if you took out the vent tube. The vent tube goes throught the hole in the three hole brake block unless I am missing some understanding on the vent tube. Rich Hartung.

from what I can tell there is no right or left front lens on the Ply/Dodge/desoto or Chrysler. I do know that on the rears on my 39 Desoto there is a right and left taillight and also chrome trim for the taillights and also r and l taillight buckets. I also know that on some of the 39's there were right and left chrome trim rings but on my 39 desoto there is no designated r or l trim for the headlights. Rich desoto1939@aol.com

there also is another issue that no one has talked about: These cars use the 2331 headlight bulb and there isa a 2330 headlight bulb with the prefocused bulb. They both look alike but the difference is that on the 2331 which I use on the 39 Desoto and also used on the 39 Dodge/Chrylser and I am also assuming the 39 Plymouth Is that these bulbs have a right to left orination for High Beam to low beam. The 2330 have the standard high beam is upwards and the low beam is down. Both bulbs use the same socket but the only difference is that the two contact are either up/down 12/6 o-clock position 2330 and the 2331are left to right or 3/9 position. Just by switching the inner contacts to the proper orientation is a simple pigtail change. But Also the headlight glass has the prisims cut into the glass for the left/right on the 39's verus othe other cars have the 6/12 orientation. So if you convert to halgin bulbs and use the 6/12 up down then you will not have great lights unless you have the proper halogen bulb either 2331 or 2330. Or if you put in the aftermarket halgen bulbs that like they do on Model A's with it own socket then you need to adjust the socket so that the high low beam for the bulb is a 3/9 orientation. Also suggest that you nickel plate and polish the reflectors and then have them replated with the Uriva plating. But you need to make the necessary modifications and then convert to a 6 v positive ground alternator. Also Don Axlerod is the only one that has re-poped the headlight sockets they are not cheap but if you need them than he has them Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Bob: do you have the aamco brake gage to do the proper adjustment on the shoes? Let me know? Yes we all are getting older and it takes more time to get started and we end the day even earlier then we did in our younger years. If you ever decide to come to Hershey I now do have two sites so you are welcome to come by and sit for some time and talk about cars and have something to eat and drink. Rich

Based on your distributor number her is what you need from Autolite: Cap: IGC1107S Rotor: IGS1016B Contact Set: IGP3028ES Condensor IG3927G Breaker Plate Assembly IGS 3004 This was taken from my Autolite Catalog I have sent you a Private message Rich HArtung

another way to see if you plug wires are leaking is to start the car when it is dark outside or in your garage but have all the garage lights turned off. Open the hood and then without any lights on if you see any blue flashes around the plug wires then they are leaking and it is time to replace them. If you ever need to pull a plug wire when the car is running you will need to purchase a sparkplug wire puller at any good auto supply store. They are covered so you will not get a shock. Gals all went well with you. Also get a NOS distributo cap, points, condenser and rotor it is good to have these in the car with you as a spare. These are items that you can not ususally just walk into an autozone when on the road if they go bad. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

correct with the engine running then use the timing light to see where the mark is getting highlighted by the flash from the timing light. If the timing mark is not lining up with the pointer then you have to adjust the distributor by either advancing or retarding the timing so you are turning clockwise or counterclockwise to get the white mark to be in align with the pointer. Also remember that the car might run smoother even if if is off the mark alittle. You have to get a fell for the engine and see where is is the smoothest. When the car was perfectly new then TDC was the mark but as we get older in life we lose some of our own spark and we have to make adjustments in life same for a car as it gets older. As things wear down maybe the point gap can be less than 20 and more to 19/18 because of the cam on the dizzy is worn. All these factors play into the timing of the car. Keep us posted. Rich HArtung

Hey Bob: How are you doing with this c19 virus issue. Hope all is well with you and the family. Not sure about Hershey in October here in PA. Basically the whole state has been shut down and allof the annual car shows have been cancelled. Have not heard anything from the AACA about the Hershey event. I have two spots again already assigned to me but it is a waiting game that we all have to play. Sounds as if its going to be a boring summer and little use of the cars and meeting up with the rest of the car club members. Take care. Rich HArtung

I had one like that several years ago but sold it. Yes you need the steel gasket and a different spark plug rich hartung

TDC is at idle not necessary to plug the vacuum line. I always time with #6 plug on my 39 Desoto. Rich

according to my flat rate book for Plymouth from 1939-50 the spark timing mark on the dampener is TDC or top dead center the sparkplug gap should be set at 25 for 1938-48. Yes a 12 volt timing light will give you a good light but remember to switch out the clips you are positive ground on your car. Time off on number 6 spark plug wire. So the red clip goes to the ground and the negative to power The original timing was done with number 6 plug. When looking at you head there is a small bolt just in front of the number 6 plug this was removed and then the timing light and timing rod would be placed inthis hole and then the light would go on when the piston came to the top. Also the points gap is 20 I would suggest that you get a service manual for your car because this will answer a lot of your questions. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Does the Plymouth have the sisson automatic choke? If it does it this properly adjusted? If you have a sisson choke check the linkage for the choke and the choke butterfly this might be binding. You said the carb was rebuilt did you you rebuild the carb? Assuming it is a Ball and Ball carb. Di you put the two inner small ball bearing back into the proper holes. These are small but they are different in overall size and if you switched them this can also cause problems. When rebuilding a carb suggest that you get several cardboard egg boxes and then number each hole. As you disassemble the carb put each individual part into a separate slot so that when you are putting it back to gether you then can take the appropriate part from the numbered egg hole What carter B&B carb number are you working on? I might have some information on the rebuilding steps that might help you with you issue. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

If you do not have a torque wrench then go to Harbor Freight and get one. Since you will not be using it everyday like a mechanic would use it these willget you by. The HF tools are ok to use but they do not take a pounding like in everyday use. For our occasional usage they will work just fine. I have one of these HF torque wrench and it has served me just fine. Always remember to reset the amount of torque back to zero on the handle when done with the tool. This is very important to do every time. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

The guys that say their pump does not have a grease fitting or nipple it would be located on the output shat on the body just before the flange that is used to bolt on the fan blade assembly. So your unit might be a sealed bearing unit and th epump was replaced at sometime before you got the car maybe by a prior owner. Rich Hartung

I agree with Captdne I used a boat propeller grease in mine. Since a propeller is under water at all times this is a good grease to use. You can get this grease at any Walmart store. Also be careful to not over grease the bearing with the old style bronze bushing this will cause the pump to leak. Just a small amount will do the trick. I have changed out my factory pump that had the bronze bushing to a sealed bearing bushing so I do not have to worry about greasing the unit. If you have the older or should I say the more newer style pump that these newer pumps by gates are now coming with the sealed bearing. I would suggest that if your old pump starts to leak then replace with a sealed bearing. Rich Hartung[

lepic56: Our first question that anyone that is trying to help you figure the wiring should be asking if you have a service manual for the car and if you do then you should go the electrical section in the service manual and there should be a wiring diagram. The service manual is the basic manual that every antique car owner needs to have a copy of just for reference purposes and it also will help guide you through some of the basic steps on how to repair and diagnose issues. So if you do not have a service manual than we all would suggest that you obtain a copy. you can get reprints on ebay and some times as swap meets. This is the basic manual that you need to start with. Also keep it in the car because if you are on the road and the car breaks or a wire gets disconnected then you have a reference book to at least provide some assistance. If on the road you might not have any access to the internet to ask questions or even get InTouch with one of the forum members. I am nt trying to be negative and not answer your question but every car is wired differently. so if you had some prior information then you would be able to supply more information to the members of the Forum and would get a better answer. I have been in this hobby for 32 years and if you want to own an antique car then you need to educate yourself first. Also remember that most new mechanics of today have not been schooled on these cars and are not first technitions that just connect and plug in the car to a diagnostic computer to tell them what the issue and then they go to a service document or to a link on their computer at their work station. The more info that you have the better you will be to fix an issue. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I have a 39 Desoto that has been AACA judged HPOF Historical Preservation of Original features. And yes the car has been repainted because the original paint was starting to flack off and then getting rust on the body. So to keep the car running and usable did a repaint down to bare metal. Fixed the old cloth cover wiring to modern wiring because of possible fire and other electrical issues. Headliner was real bad and replaced mohair seat covering and door panels are original but show their wear for being 80 + years but basically a good presentable car for the time period. I state the car as semi original but I can drive it and have fun with it and not worry about someone touching the car. Even the total 100point cars are not fully restores. I even brought this to the AACA attention because most glass was replaced and the original glass had a date code and manufacturers seal in the glass most cars that are senior winners from the 50's and back do not have the original glass if it was replaced. So with that being stated every senior and or grand national car will have something not original so there can never be a 100 point car. At one point the AACA took several of their most experienced senior judges and asked them to judge a modern car that was taken directly from a dealership and had not been owned by anyone. These judged then started to deduct points point based on what they had been schooled on via the AACA judging rule book. After the car was finally judged and the scores were given in they were all informed that no matter what they think they found wrong with the car based on their experience there could not be any points deductions. They all asked why. The real answer is that this is a factory delivered car and how it is shown it is perfect and a 100 point car. The senior judges were given a lesson as a joke to them and the AACA. A lot of the cars that are AACA senior winners are over restored and on some of the older cars the fit and finish was not down to having evenly space seams. The idea was to get the car off the assembly line and were not basically an item to be judged.. It was basic transportation except maybe for the real high cost cars. So restored partially restored or semi original or total original is the owners choice to do what ever they want. It all depends on what they want to do and if they have the funds to do anything to the car. But basically as I see it the idea is to keep the car running and enjoy the hobby. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com