desoto1939

I have a Battery Tender that has the option for 12 or 6 volt and is a 3amp charger. i have used this for several years and is connected to Ground fault outlet in my gargae. i have it hooked up at all times. Since my 39 desoto is a positive ground i hook the black clip to the main battery cable on top of my starter since I have the foot plunger style ignition and the red clip to a bolt on the head. Will add pictures of my unit. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Looks to me that you are about dead on with the dwell setting for a 6 cylinder car or truck. I read the sacle as being around 37 but that is so close to 38 it is almost perfect setting. This is just my opinion. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Point to consider when owning an antique car or truck or what ever. I have read my policy that is issued by Grundy Worlwide and also several other major players in the antique car insurance business. They state that the car must be stored in an enclosed structure such as a garage and be on your property. Some state that it can be stored in a storage facility. If the car is being permanently stored under a car port then you do not have coverage. So if something happens to your car your antique car insurance might not cover anything odf the damage. Suggest that everyone check their individual policy to make sure that you are storing the car on a permanent basis at your home in a garage. When on a trip or tour with you r then the requirement for being in a grarage is not a requirement becasue they know you cannot get into a covered garage. Be warned that you might have an issue with just storing your car in your driveway with a car cover. Also if you have your car on a consignment situation in a facility best is to contact your carrier to verify that it is also covered and DO NOT take for granted that the consignment facilities insurance will cover your car. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Any cloth car cover will be fine if the car is being stored indoors. I also use some heavy blankets to cover the four fenders just incase someone walks by the car with something in their hand or brushes up against the car. If you have bia ply tires on your car then put some old carpeting under all four wheels. This will stop the flat spot on the tires from sittingon the cement. I have done this for 32 years and never have a flat spot. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

if cleaning the contact points get a point file not sand paper. Rich Hartung

when you setup a link to napa online you can savea particular car to alwasy be your default car. If you look at the second button on the very top you might see your 1948 dodge listed as the vehicle that you are search for parts in their system. You can also chnage this to a different car. Mine link states it will not fit my volvo v70 Rich Hartung

Yes that is correct for the 1939 Plymouth. The 1939 Chrysler, Desoto and Dodge all came standard with the Autolite electrical wiper motor. The lower line of Plymouth retained the trico vacuum wiper motor system. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

This is the reasonwhy I have collected the various catalogs and have scanned them onto a PDF document. Keeping the information alive is important. So that you know what is the correct part for your car. Rich HArtung

ok her is what is in my Autolite catalog: 1950 D33,d34 GGW-6001A generator uses vr VBE-6001A sta wagon and 7 pass sedan the GGW-6001B 1950 D34,d35, D36 Canadian Gen ggw6001B used VR VBE6001A ok vbe-6001A replaces VRP-4503B, VRP-6004A vbe-6001A used onthe following cars Chrysler 49-51 Desoto 49-51 Dodge 49-51 Dodge Truck 48-51 Fargo 48-51 Ply 49-51 There is no picture of this regulator in my catalog so I can not post it. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

could it be the starter selinoid making the clicking sound, just a thought are you disconnecting the battery cable at the battery or at the stater or at the selinoid. Rich Hartung

Sniderman: You never replied as to what specific generator that you have on your car. There are several Autolite volt reg that will work on your car but they are matched to your generator. If you provide me with the generator model number I can match up the correct volt regulator for you. Rich Hartung

According to My autolite catalog yes the regulator is matched to the generator. So inorder for me to indicate the proper volt reg I need to know what generator is on your car Look at the red tag on the gen and tell me the information: Like GGU-6001. From that Info I can tell you the correct Original Autolite Volt regulator to get for your car also is the car labeled as a d34, d35 or D36 Cnanadian Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

are you asking if the surge brake would be inthe car that is being towed on if it would be on the towbar where is connects the hitch? I know on some camping trailer that did not have the electrical brake connection they did have a braking mechnanism that was at the tongue of the hitch on the trailer. The big issue is that when you where going down hill the surge brake could then automatically apply the internal brakes on the trailer. When going up hill the pressure on the surge break is released as is the same when traveling on a regular road. I do not remember if the sensitivity to automatically apply the brakes to the trailer was changeable or not. Also check that the system is working properly and to insure that the system frees its self and does not keep the brake applied all the time. This is taken from days of camping with my mom and dad. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

most clamp on side rear view mirrors were after market items but you could get these items from your car dealser as an extra add on. Have never seen this style so would think after market. Rich Hartung

When you replaced the two bushing s upper and lower did you burnish the bushing for an exact size. There is a factory miller tool that is used to drive in and out the two dizzy bushings. You also should have a metal pin that has been peened over just below the base of the main body of the dizzy. So why are you redrilling another hole? Just use the same hole with a new pin and peen over the ends The miller tool is c-3041 and is currently listed on ebay for around $59. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

OK so now you have been able to get the car engine timed to TDC. OK so now you can fine adjust the dizzy by rotating it to find the sweet spot for your engine. It will be a trail and error but after you get the sweet spot then put that info on a white board in your garage to note the number on the vibration dampener. You have taken the first step to getting to know your car and engine and that is a real plus for you. We all have gone through this learning curve welcome to the club of hard knocks but this will stick with you for a long time. Persistence will always payoff. Now get to know what dizzy model you have in the car because the points, condensot roto, cap and breaker plate are all determined by the model number on the plate on the body of the dizzy. Let me know what is stamped on the plate: IGS-4207B-1 IAT-4003 IAT-4011 I have an autolite catalog to tell you about the replacement parts for your car. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Yes get you engine idliong to as close to as possible to Top Dead Center, Your Blue Line in your picture. So put white chalk mark on this line so that when your timing light comes on you can see if the white mark is at TDC or if it is before or after the mark on the vibration dampener. Sometime these engine run better retarded and or advanced because of engine wear over the years. Ge the engine to idle smoothly at first. Then you can try to see how the engine sounds when reving the engine. Remember you are working with an engine that is about 70 years old unless it was rebuild at some point but you would still have some play. Also check that the breaker plate is not loose in the distrbuter it could be worn out and is floating or moving in the assembly. If this is the pbm then get a NOS breaker plate assembly. I would need to know the distributor model number to tell you the correct breaker plate assembly so the dizzy is either kw

Yes get you engine idliong to as close to as possible to Top Dead Center, Your Blue Line in your picture. So put white chalk mark on this line so that when your timing light comes on you can see if the white mark is at TDC or if it is before or after the mark on the vibration dampener. Sometime these engine run better retarded and or advanced because of engine wear over the years. Ge the engine to idle smoothly at first. Then you can try to see how the engine sounds when reving the engine. Remember you are working with an engine that is about 70 years old unless it was rebuild at some point but you would still have some play. Also check that the breaker plate is not loose in the distrbuter it could be worn out and is floating or moving in the assembly. If this is the pbm then get a NOS breaker plate assembly. I would need to know the distributor model number to tell you the correct breaker plate assembly so the dizzy is either kw

That is good to here what the rebuilder did to the carb. That is what I would have expected from the rebuilder. But I still have not had any reply back from Mr. rose. Or they should have on their webpage what a rebuild consists of so you know what you are getting for your money. Rich Hartung

I buy the old style carter total rebuild kits when ever I can find them at swap meets. These are the ones in the orange boxes and also list the proper carb that they will fit. Yes these are getting harder to find but the have all of the internal small brass parts that you need to rebuild and reservice the older cars. If you study the font parts list of most of thes early carter B&B rebuild kits you will find a pattern that in most cases most of the parts from one kit can be used in another kit and similar carb. So when I see what is included and I can matchup the parts and the price is a good price around $25 I purchase the kit that includes all of the parts. Most of the newer kits being sold on Ebay ripoff do not have the entire rebuildable items and only have the small universal parts and cost usually more. So if a Master Carb rebuilder should be able to rebuild a carb for a reasonable cost and also do a rebushing on the lower shaft and still make a living and not charge an arm and 2 legs to get the job done. They are not replacing the main body of the carb just a disassembly, deep cleaning, installing new parts, checking the accelerator plunger movement with the Carter tool and putting it back to gether, maybe testing it on an engine and shipping back to you and you as the owner pay the shipping both directions. I have the Carter Catalog and several other catalogs so I can cross reference to see what parts carry over from each kit. Yes you have to do some homework and leg work but get the good old parts first and then the new repop parts secod. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Yes the company that is providing services need to state what all is included in their services that they are providing weather it be a rebuild or a complete restoration back to factory specifications as close as possible. Yes a used carb can be brought back only so far to originality. But my point is that I asked the company via an email and thru their website and have never received a reply. So I did my part to see what I would get back from them and what to expect for a finished product. If a company is going to advertise via a webpage then they should at least describe what services are included with what part of a restore or a full blown restoration. So I asked the question and some members took a shot at me for asking the question. Ijust wanted to know what I was paying for to have the carb either repaired or restored. What is wrong with that question? When I go to the Rose Carburetor webpage this is all the information that you get and nothing else so I used their contact us link to do an inquiry about their services. So what is wrong with asking a question of the company. I am now done with posting any more on this topic. Rich Hartung

In defense of my question so when you send a car out to a restoration shop for a total rebuild from the ground up what should you expect from the shop. A total rebuild of all the components. The diferentail is taken apart and inspected for missing or worn out seal and other alignment issue. So would you then accept them to put back into the rear end the old inner oil seals NO, you would expect new oil seals. So when someone states a distributor has been rebuilt what should you expect from the expert that is rebuilding the dizzy. A complete rebuild and that should include the two inner bushing in the main body of the housing. If they do not replace these items then the rebuilder if he has any pride in his work would let the owner know that they were not replace because he tested the shaft to determine if there was excess play in the shaft. So why is it that I just got my head taken off for asking a question of the carb rebuilder what does a total rebuld consist of? If I am paying for the carb to be rebuilt then I should know what I am getting for my money. If he states that is not part of the standard rebuild but will do it as an extra fee than that is fine but at least I would know that when I struck the deal with the restorer. To many people just part ways with their money and then when something does not come back to them as expected they then bad mouth the restorer. You have to know what you are paying for. So just sticking the unassembled carb in some cleaner and then putting in a rebuild kit not like the old original carter kits that had all of the internal small parts can be done by any backyard mechanic that can read the instruction sheet. But to do it correctly and to check to make sure that any wornout parts such as the dogleg is workig correctly and has not worn any grooves is what I expect from the professional restorer. So I guess you would accept a half done heart transplant from a doctor. You would be informed as to what he is going to do, so apply that to everything Ask questions and ask questions. We have lost the art of communicating. If you do not like the answer then go to someone else. I inquired to the carb professional and have not had a reply so I cannot state what or what not will be restored. The final decision is up to me and no one else, but do not take my head off for asking a question. I did not accuse anyone of anything but wanted to know what I would receive for my money or was the build the same as if I had done the work myself. I am not picking on young ed in my reply. I am just making a reply back to the statement from Los control. I am expecting from a total rebuild that the carb would not leak at any of the areas that have a metal bushing, expecting the carb tobe returned to me in a near as perfect condition rehabed as possible. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I wrote to Rose Carburetors asking about what is included in a total rebuild of a Carter B&B carb. I have never heard back from them. I know that the C19 virus might be an issue with noone replying. Some companies when they say they rebuild or restore a component do not list all that they do to a part. So when I read that they resotre carbs I am also assuming that they will replace and or make new bushings where ever they are needed on the carb. To me a restoration should include these new bushing and any other major linkage parts and a total rebuild of all new internal brass small parts that originally came with the NOS Carter rebuild kits. Some of the new kits that are being sold on Ebay and at swap meets do not contain all of the replacement parts so it is important to know and ask what a rebuilder is going to replace and also whats parts are included in the cost and if they will send you any or all of the parts that they took out of your carb. This way you will know what they replaced because you will also have your older parts as a backup. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

My name is Rich Hartung and I am a proud owner of a 1939 Desoto Sedan for the past 30+ years. I am a member of the National Desoto club, AACA and several local AACA affiliated club here in the greater Philadelphia area. I annually have a vendor spot at Hershey and several other major swap meets. I am attempting to create a National registry for all 1939 Desoto owners that live int he USA, Canada, south America and evening Europe. This will be a free service to any 39 Desoto owner. I have started a spreadsheet with lots of collection points. The other object is to have a central point for these owners to post parts that are sale, parts that people are looking to buy and to ask specific question of other 39 Desoto owners. I will post to the members articles from some of the various catalogs that I have on parts that were made for these cars. So, if you are a 1939 Desoto owner or know of an owner of one of these cars please forward them my email and have them contact me directly. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

yes these were an option and were put on cars and trucks that did a lot of rural delivery because of the gravel and mud roads because they would need the extra ground clearance. These were an option and are documented in the Butler Plymouth Desoto book page 108 and these is a picture of them on a 39 Plymouth..e 39 Ply 20 inch rims.pdf