50mech

Sounds like one side of the ammeter has been wired to ground, rather than the starter solenoid hot (-) terminal.

Oh yeah, forgot about the little oval body that slips over the shafts. I like this idea. You could use 1/8 aluminum plate, countersink the holes, and paint or round off the edges and polish.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-0-375-in-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Hole-Plug/3013212?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-google-_-lia-_--_-fasteners-_-3013212-_-0&store_code=556&placeholder=null&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz8-Wp4b_5wIVhZ6zCh2lpQjvEAQYASABEgI0vfD_BwE There are a variety of diameters, you can usually find one that will snap in. Might add a little rtv or clear silicone to seal it.

I was able to confirm that the riser valve is stuck in the heating position. Counterweight touches the manifold so splitting that is on the list for this weekend.

I mean the bowl stays full, keeping the valve closed so there's pressure in the feed line.

Looking at a diagram of the yf, is it possible the fuel is vaporizing under the diaphragm, thus the float is full ( presrving fuel pressure) yet no fuel can enter the idle circuit? Or any circuit... until I create a very high vacuum situation.

Also, closing the choke plate is not enough. I must completely seal the throat.momentarily

Definitely have to go over all that too, as it being a little slower when warm seems odd for a properly functioning system, though still slow that doesn't currently stop it from firing up within 2-3 minutes of shutting it off... If that means anything?

Yes. Only if it's sat for about 10 minutes while hot though. After putting a pressure guage inline just before the carb I've found I'm not ever losing fuel pressure. Also a glass filter that remains full. Right now that very hot carb has me suspecting it.

Hot starts were problematic with the BB as well though they got much worse after replacing the fuel pump...which had a failing check valve that finally stopped working all together.

Yes it's one of the little 1/8inch that came with the carb. I'm not sure the shop manual starting procedures will apply the same way since it's now a 75-82 Carter yf carb. The linkage on it is such that for cold starting you have to depress the pedal once to reset the high idle cam....hot, Im not so sure of, in this case it won't start regardless of throttle position. If it's been off more than a couple minutes. Otherwise fires back up no problem. I would think this carb would be designed to handle the ethanol fuel...so a spacer may be in order like you say. If it still has an issue after some of the previous suggestions have been done.

What types of penicillin mix best with gasoline? Does Chrysler make penta-cyllin?

Since it can be rust and carbon, and I have some around, I'm thinking I'll hit the riser valve with CLP

Yes, a ground would make sense as the cranking speed is slower when warm.

I do have a rather slow cranking speed as well....prhaps battery or starter issue compounding the problem...?

So when you say open, that is referring to the heating position?

Just tried it after a 20 min drive, sat for 10-15 min. wot won't get it to start, but the whole body of the carb is hot enough I can't leave my hand on it. In fact the base is hotter than the cylinder head is. No wetness around the base, but heavy rising fuel vapor.

Awesome! Will do. It won't move by hand, probably going to gut and replace it this weekend or do a blockoff. Ill definitely try all suggestions too.

I'll give it another shot at WOT. If it helps I'll drop the float level.

That's what has me a little confused. Open throttle won't start it. Say the stuck heat riser is causing percolating....or just ethanol fuel. It starts when I completely choke it with my hand. I could only only guess that draws in enough cool fuel to overcome the issue or simply gets the vacuum high enough? Coil is a new pertronix and has plenty of spark during this condition. Will check the float level though.Thank you.

For about $20 you can get a low power AM transmitter that plugs into any headphone jack (or rca) to transmit whatever you'd like from another device. (Little FM radio,iPod,phone,zero..whatever) Then listen to it through your nice old tube radio.

So I got the new fuel pump and Carter yf carb installed on the 50 Plymouth. Starts when cold, starts after driving and shutting off for 3-4 minutes. If it's left for 10-20 minutes it won't start. It's still warm enough for the choke to be open. If I pull the fuel line from the carb there is still some pressure there. Only way to start it at that point is to choke it by sealing off the intake with my hand, or letting it cool much longer. Engine temps are normal. I'm thinking this is due to the heat riser being stuck but thought I'd run it by you guys to see if you think I'm barking up the wrong tree or if you could throw out some other possibilities. Thoughts?

Technically should be a slightly higher viscosity than what it's sealing. I just go the same.

I usually do. In this case they list the 588 type as fitting all except models equipped with double actions. I was betting the single would work but sometimes they'll surprise you, figured best to ask the experts here.

Here's a useful thread concerning that cap. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=8022343 The fuel spray warning sticker would definitely indicate the cap let's some pressure build before venting.... No idea if that's a good thing for a car with no return line though.......or if it matters....