Lingle

could be, cant recall if you replaced the condenser but I had a boat motor that would fire up and run, but on shut down the heat soak would make the condenser not want to work again until cooled back off. points are really just breaking a circuit so cleaned up dont typically fail but depending on how much they are and how hard to get, Id throw in new point and condenser.

nice work! always fun when you get to make your own tools

dont know if this helps at all, this is what I got awhile back from DCM website, might not help but thought Id share in case they help. the file names dont quite make sense, specially on the 48-55 C1 name but I planned to use these when I get my rubber parts(likely in a few years) 1939-47-dodge-truck-and-pylmouth-truck-46-48-power-wagon-48-53-dodge-truck.pdf 48-55-dodge-truck-c1.pdf

i do not have anything that small but looking at Don Bunn's book what ggdad said would hold true. any reasonably sized car trailer would transport the truck.

thats the plan, I suspect you are mostly talking about the aluminum pedal support bracket between the pedals and the dash? for the firewall Ill try to make it as rounded as I can, but I dont have a English wheel and the neighbors finger break press can do decent radius. I kept the old firewall I cut out as a reference and see how well I do

finally getting some time to work on Project Mater! got the firewall all mocked up. Used a trailer fender and cut down to fit for a nice looking area around the bell housing. Then made a wireframe buck out of TIG rod to get the shape of the firewall ironed out. I follow Karl Fisher, MakeItKustom on YouTube, to learn about sheetmetal and other autobody items and this is how he makes various sheetmetal parts. as seen below, I made the firewall as close to the engine as comfortable to make room for the Vintage Air HVAC system as well as a heater. Likely I will weld shut the cowl vent.

great work! I have not found a flare tool that doesn't leave some sort of marking, specifically on ni-cop tubing since it is fairly soft material. I have a older snap-on brand flare tool for English sized tubing and it leaves some marks on ni-cop but none on other tube material types

nice work! question though, what software did you use to make those prints? Ive wanted to get a decent CAD software to do some design work as its frowned upon using my company one for personal use and if I can find a decent one for reasonable price, Id get some. keep up the photos, looks like a great machine!

even shop kitty got a cameo in the video!

holy cats! 91??

Iowa allows it, farily easily from what Ive read, havent done the request yet. in essence you register and title it as a new vehicle and get new current plates. You then get approval to run the period correct plates, but keep the current ones in the vehicle somewhere to present to law enforcement, if necessary. I plan to do it that way so I can have no restrictions on my truck(insurance will be on a agreed upon value since initially the insurance said my truck max value was like $5k...um yeah I have that much in just an engine and transmission...) my brother in law collects plates so Im having him look for what he can find for ones for my truck...should be a good time!

keep up the good work! on my Detroit diesel transplant I ended up heat coating my manifold using some high temp paint for headers and then baked(my wife was uber excited about this) it in my oven. Sure made the house smell like a gear factory heating and cooling it to 450 degrees 3 times! cant wait to see the hood action with all the actuators and such installed(maybe I missed that, will go back and see).

I got mine from DCM Classics and have been happy with them. You can get a kit for $65 plus shipping. the kit does 2 of the 4 mounts so $130 plus tax and shipping. some have recommended for the drivers front upper mount to use a hockey puck since factory had a very hard mount. I chose to use the mounts from DCM as is, since I am not keeping the factory clutch/brake setup.

I've followed a guy on YouTube called MakeItKustom, guy has a lot of interesting videos on welding, fab, etc. and he talked about how to weld without warping. Also, keep up the good work ggdad!

Yes that would be it! The Ford ones do look like some sort of plastic or other material. the good news is they are the same part number for the female items, so in theory you could remove them from one side and move to the other since the wear is almost exclusively on the lower part(at least on my cab). Thanks for the quick feedback!

Question for the group. after repairing the floor and doing some rework, the doors are about as good as can be aligned, however I noticed on the B-pillar(sorry for no photos and cant get a snap of the parts catalog as the old website is not around) where the door ramp(below the latch point) interfaces is worn badly. they appear to almost be a composite V shape that helps bring the door up to the latch point. I checked DCM and they dont show repair parts, does anyone know if those parts are available? Even if they are composite/plastic? I think I could drill out the rivets and move one side to the other if they are mirrored. Apologies for no photos, but if I can Ill get a phot tonight from my cab.

been quite a bit since I posted any updates but I am doing work again. I cut out the whole floor section and have started to put framing/structure back in. In essence the floor heights wont change as I dont want to rebuild the cab mount locations. Did find out the seats I bought are WAY too big depth wise(~30" from rear most point to where it ends under your thighs when you would be seated). Tomorrow I am getting a set of Chrysler Sebring convertible seats as they too have built in seat belts, like the Ford ones shown in the photo. I will then finish the floor support so the seats bolt directly to the fore-aft section of 1.5" square tubing that I am using. I did learn I lost alot of structure and the doors sagged a bit, so have to re-level the doors before I put in the 3/4" square tubing I will have in the foot well area. Then itll be on to building the firewall/dog house and sheetmetal. I dont have a bead roller so will need to outsource the flooring when I get there, Ill make the templates and provide some of the metal, but a local place will need to bead roll it for stiffness. Hope everyone is doing well. fore-aft angle iron will be removed and replaced with 1.5" square tube like the side to side ones shown

agree with ggdad, In my state you must have the title in your name a minimum of 30 days before re-selling it, unless you are a dealer. seems like you have exhausted all options, wish they were like Iowa, bonded title for me was a $100 bond, then state did a bunch of work to find old title owners, not finding any they issued me a bonded title and I paid the fee for that. Good luck as these old COE are very cool for sure

Kevin, do we just bid here or via PM? if here, Ill bid $125.

welcome! do you have a service or parts manual you can reference? this forum is awesome so Im sure someone will help answer the question but i know the big deal is pictures, do you have any you could share of your project?

If I recall right some here were saying 0 or 1 gauge wires. My project is using a diesel with 12V starter and batteries fairly far away and I'm using 1/0 cables. if you are handy, I'd recommend getting the tools and making your own. www.batterycablesusa.com is a good site I've used exclusively to buy cables and ends. fast shipping and reasonable price.

for some reason I had this body builder layout PDF on my laptop(I have a B3F but had this one as well), dont know if it will help but here it is attached. B-108 WB.pdf

There was a forum post earlier about a leaf spring u bolts from Pittsburg Spring, post by Fiddy B2C, so maybe they can help out?

I agree with Los, when I did my firewall patching, I had friend that at the time worked a metal shop, the gauge these trucks were built with isn't available anymore so 18ga is slightly thinner but not so thin as to be a problem. that is what I plan to do for my sheetmetal work is 18ga.

did you custom build the linkage for that vent? I cant recall but I was thinking you made the actuator and linkage, unless there happens to be a off the shelf kit for it. keep up the good work!