Tony_Urwin

Get yourself a Mopar Parts book that is specific to your vehicle. (There is one for B-series trucks 1948-53) You can find reprints of the parts book on eBay almost all the time. Once you look up your part number, you can call Andy Bernbaum, Roberts Motor Parts, or any of the other vendors that are listed right here on this website. Check the LINKS page. Another good resource is www.partsvoice.com. You have to have the part number to search, but a search on Partsvoice.com will often return multiple vendors, and you can price shop from there. It's a good place to locate hard-to-find parts, even though it only shows hits from vendors in its database.

Wow!....I'm jealous. Great choice of color!

I think if your mind is set on a 2-door, then you should buy one. Trying to modify a 4-door is a serious investment of your time that could be better spent just getting your car in good mechanical condition.

Local machine shop did my flywheel for $20. That might be cheaper than shipping.

Maybe the head has just been machined too much or too many times. Might be time for a replacement?

I have an extra 11" clutch assembly and plate. Yours might be a 10", so check the size. Some flywheels are drilled for both, so you might be able to install the bigger clutch even if you had a smaller clutch before.

distributor cap?

I can't speak for GT, the moderator of this site, but it would be great if we had a link for old Mopar ads. I have a number of ads that I could share, and I would love to see some of the other advertisements. Really a trip back in time.

Also Vintage Power Wagons has something that is at least similar http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/06electrical.pdf

The modified angle of the drive line is not an issue. However, as Fred suggested, no suspension parts should extend below the scrub line (basically the rims of your wheels). Otherwise, a flat tire at speed could cause you to lose control of your vehicle.

Jason, I am in the process of replacing the brake lines in my truck right now. I had to disconnect the rear lines for a differential swap, and had to replace the front lines to install Charlie's disc brake kit. I had all the original brake lines in my truck, and most of the rusty lines snapped when I disconnected them. I decided it was time to replace all of the brake lines. The brake lines are 1/4" mild steel tubing which is available in various lengths with the correct fittings at any auto parts store. 3/16" will also work for you. It's also available by the roll. If you want to replicate the original lines, you will have to cut the tubing to length, bend it to shape, and make a double flare at the end. Decent flaring tools start at about $30, tubing benders are in approximately the same price range. With a little practice you can bend your own lines and make flared ends that will not leak. If you don't want to bend and flare your own lines, there are vendors like Classic Tube or Inline Tube who will provide pre-bent and flared lines. You can send them your old lines and they will replicate them for you. Expensive- several hundred dollars, at least. You could also have a local brake shop do it, of course. Let us know how it goes!

My B-1-C has it.

I do have the "How right we were to wait for a Plymouth!" ad in perfect condition. I would gladly share a scan of the ad, or.... how much are you willing to donate to the forum if I send it to you?

Tim was walking down the sidewalk one day when Don rode up on an incredible shiny new bicycle. Tim was stunned by his friend's sweet ride and asked, "WOW! Where did you get such a nice bike?" Don replied, "Well, yesterday I was walking home, minding my own business, when a beautiful woman rode up to me on this bike. She threw the bike to the ground, took off all her clothes and said, 'Take what you want!'" Tim nodded approvingly, "Good choice. The clothes probably wouldn't have fit."

I used to come to this site for help, cuz I'm such an incompetent mechanic. lately I check in cuz it's funnier than anything on TV. I think retirement is making Don a little cranky. A few more years and he'll be sitting on the porch yelling at kids on bicycles.

Easy to find- eBay, Roberts, Bernbaum, etc. Same part for all the mopar flatheads regardless of displacement. Steele Rubber probably has the best and most expensive ones...

vlv? Sounds like part of the female anatomy to me. And don't be so ruft on the new guy. I might need some help on my dissy some time.

Never heard of it. I have heard of flash chrome (chrome over stainless) which is usually found on hubcaps. Standard triple-chrome plating is copper, then nickel, then a final thin coating of chromium. Don't know what hard chrome would consist of...

pflaming - Sorry, I just saw your post today... like you suggested, I am adding disc brakes as part of the suspension rebuild. New kingpins, new tie-rod ends, new disc brakes. The machine shop that did my kingpins has a sandblasting cabinet and a beadblasting cabinet, and they cleaned up the spindles and axle for me when they did the kingpins. I bought Charlie's disc brake kit, and I'm putting it together over the next week or so. I'll just mount the axle and do it in place though. Charlie's kit looks so easy that I don't think there's any need to do it on a stand. The machine shop blasted the old drums and backing plates for me, too. I'll probably put them on eBay after I paint them. If any forum member wants them and will make a nice donation to GTK, I will donate them for the cause! Nice thick drums, clean as a whistle. The bearings and races would be included, but might need to be replaced.

I have an ignition cylinder and key that I believe goes to a P15. I have two other mopars, so it is possible that I am mistaken about which vehicle. If you want to try it, I will mail it to you and you can make a donation to the forum as payment.

I just dropped the whole axle, took it to the machine shop. Picked it up the next day, paid the man $75, and bolted it back in place. Lazy, yeah, but it didn't cost me any more than if I had removed the kingpins myself.

Here's one for about half the price Roberts is asking. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230448732897&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

If it's the brackets that are worn, you can get new ones at SILKE'S AUTO PARTS INC. JACKSONVILLE, FL 32217 (904) 737-8600 or COLLECTORS AUTO SUPPLY OROVILLE, WA 98844 (800) 414-4462 Personally, I have never been able to afford anything at COLLECTORS. I think they specialize in classic auto parts for foreign millionaires.

Scatch that. I need a 116" bed, and that looks like it's probably a 108", isn't it?

I think I will place a bid on it. What's so rare? The step plates? And what is the purpose of the tubes on the tailgate?