Tony_Urwin

The top two holes to attach the transmission are threaded, the bottom two are not threaded and will need nuts and lock washers. I plan to cut some threaded rod to use as a guide when I install this monster.

I checked the fit on the AoK adapter yesterday. The center hole is a few thousandths too small to fit over the input bearing retainer. 20 minutes with a file and some emery paper and I was able to pass my new bearing retainer through the adapter. The picture shows the adapter bolted to the transmission with the old, smaller bearing retainer. Next I bolted the adapter to the truck bell housing. The bolts aren't quite flush with the adapter plate, but close enough, I guess.

The AoK adapter is really designed for the 1976-87 A833 transmissions I guess. Those overdrive transmission had the aluminum housing and a input bearing retainer with the 5.125" base. That part is not really a problem for me, since the different bearing retainers all swap. I guess I'll find out if the extra length of the input shaft is a concern by test-fitting it. I would hate to have to cut any off of the shaft, but we'll see. And, no, I did not even measure the length of the original input shaft, I just trusted that the AoK adapter swap was possible. I don't think the A833 shaft come in different lengths. Since a lot of the discussion posts about the A833 were deleted here, I feel like I am starting from scratch to some degree.

I hate the 3 speed crashbox behind the flathead in my 1948 B1C. So I bought a A833 on eBay and the adapter plate from George Asche. I dropped the old transmission from my truck and now I have questions for the more experienced mechanics on the forum. I guess I should request that we please keep our posts on topic. Previous discussions of the A833 swap were derailed by forum members with opinions on T5 swaps or members who think it's blasphemy to alter an original truck. As a result of the bickering, those threads about A833 swaps were either closed by the moderators, or else the posts were deleted by PO'd truck owners. Not much help there. So please, honest opinions of the process, honest answers to questions, or else ignore the topic. The transmission arrived, 23 spline input shaft, long tailpiece version with dual shifter mounts. Hurst shifter on the rear mounting location. The seller told me that the transmission had been rebuilt by Brewer Performance here in Ohio, so I took a trip to Laura, Ohio to visit Dan Brewer. He told me that the plates in the Hurst shifter mechanism were not correct for the forward location and rebuilt it while I waited. The Input Bearing Retainer was smaller than the hole in the AoK adapter plate, but Dan had the correct size (5.125") retainer, as well as a slip yoke I needed and all new bolts, clips, and shift linkage that fit the forward shift location. Dan gave me $250 for the bell housing/long shift linkage from the eBay auction and I walked away with the parts I needed for $12. Now that I had the slip yoke, I could turn the output shaft and count the revolutions on the input shaft. It looks like I have the close-ratio version of the A833 transmission. 2.47, 1.77, 1.34, 1.00 I'm happy with the non-overdrive version final ratio, since I have a 3.55 Jeep Cherokee rear axle. But is the first gear too high for my flathead? I read that the stock transmission had a 2.57 first gear. Is that correct? Next I measured the input shaft on the stock transmission. The splines extend to 5.5" from the transmission face and the shaft is 7.5" long. The splines on the input shaft of the A833 extend 6" from the transmission face and the shaft is about 8.25" long. The adapter plate is about .375" thick, so we can subtract that. Will the slightly longer splines and input shaft be an issue? Help me out here, guys. I'm having a hip replacement on November 12th, and I'd like to get this done. I'm off to Harbor Freight to buy a cheap transmission jack. That transmission weighs 125 lbs!

Not mine, but seen on Cincinnati, OH Craigslist.

I've been trying to reach them for several weeks. I get no answer to phone calls and he hasn't replied to my emails.

Hats off to you, Bingster. I spent the first 16 years of my life in Iowa and the winters are no joke. I have driven several classic cars as daily drivers, but always had a late model car as a backup. The weather here in Cincinnati is less threatening, and for me, the bigger problem is keeping up with traffic and impatient drivers. If you are committed to keeping your DeSoto stock, then I would recommend driving it in good weather only. I don't know if this has been suggested, but one option might be a classic DeSoto with a modern drive train, brakes, defroster, etc. At the very least, consider updated brakes and a rear axle with a gear ratio that makes highway driving more pleasant for you and other drivers.

I think you are right, Mr Adams, at least for my purposes. The Master Parts List shows two different frame rails for the P-15. One part # for the convertible, and another part # for all other models. Maybe I wouldn't even need to move the body mounts to use my frame under the Biz Coupe.

Sorry, the body and chassis are both P-15 lol. I've had a 1948 P-15 Club Coupe chassis in storage forever, and I am looking at a P-15 Biz Coupe that I would use for the body. If I remember correctly, the Convertible and Biz Coupe used a chassis with different mounting points than the Club Coupe and Sedan. I can't seem to find the schematics for the P-15 chassis. I might be willing to alter the chassis if it wasn't too difficult.

Can anyone tell me if the Club Coupe and Business Coupe have the same configuration of body mounts? Is it possible to put the body from a Business Coupe on the chassis of a Club Coupe without moving body mounts?

One of the bolts broke when I removed the timing chain cover. One of my neighbors has a business doing mobile bolt removal, so I invited him over and he removed the bolt with some trouble and appropriate curse words. Yesterday, I chased the threads on the bolt holes and re-installed the cover. However, when I tightened THAT bolt, the threads did not hold and the bolt turned several times after it bottomed out. Of course, it was one of the bolts that extends into the water jacket. I'm not too concerned about leaking oil, but I wonder if the coolant will have enough pressure to leak. Should I go to the trouble of removing the timing chain cover and drilling/tapping that bolt hole, or just wait to see if it leaks? I used plenty of Permatex #2 on the bolt.

SKF99218 is the SpeediSleeve part #

I think the rear of the tank attaches to attaches to a full crossmember on the 108" wheelbase trucks. My 116" flatbed has a stub, kind of a partial crossmember that has no other purpose except to support the back of the tank. Bolts to the frame on the driver side, but doesn't continue across to the the other frame rail. I could have drilled new holes in the frame and moved it forward, but it was easier to just cut and drill some flat metal to extend the tank a few inches.

I installed the Tanks fuel tank on my '48 B1C. I had seen several posts about fabricating a bracket for the back of the tank to make it fit Pilothouse models. I had also seen installation kits on eBay for about $75 that featured a welded bracket to extend the back of the tank. But my 116" truck has a different bracket than the shorter trucks and all I needed was a flat piece of steel drilled for the bolt holes. It turns out that the bracket at the back of the tank is different depending on the wheelbase of the truck.

I own a 1948 Dodge truck with a flathead, which uses a single wide groove pulley. My water pump, 12v alternator, and A/C compressor have 2-groove pulleys with narrow grooves. Tell me if you think this pulley hack will work out. I started by splitting the original single groove pulley. I used a cut-off wheel and a grinder to remove the forward half of the pulley, then ground the remaining half-pulley smooth. I found an old Mopar pulley with 2 narrow grooves. I don’t know the original application, but it was only a few mm larger than the original pulley. I cut off the center section of the pulley with a reciprocating saw. Using a long blade in the saw, I used the outside edges of the pulley to guide the blade. I laid the 2-grrove pulley on its back (the cut side), and laid the single groove pulley face-down on top. I used a MIG and alternated spot welds around the perimeter to join the two pulleys. Any opinions? Do you think it will be balanced enough to power an alternator and an A/C compressor?

What they said. Usually the trucks without corner windows had one piece door windows. The "Deluxe" cabs had quarter windows and wing windows in the doors.

15 years ago, I had chrome plating done at D-G Custom Chrome in Cincinnati. The results were good, and much cheaper than Paul's.

George Asche built this 265ci from the 251 in my 1952 Desoto. Carbs and linkage are also from George. The dual intake is a swap meet part that I polished myself. Anyone ever seen another Nicson intake? [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/aurwin1953/media/2011-08-15%2016.55.43_zpsojl8utkq.jpg.html'>

I'm curious about the roof rack myself. I have one in storage (no wood) and would love to see some pictures of one that had been restored!

Dave, I just read a long thread by Merle Coggins that has lots of those pics. Try a search

I like the color too. What is it?

Hi Don, good to see you are still active here. Norm passed away just before I put the hobby on hold. I chatted w Tim Adams and Young Ed this morning, I see some other familiar names. I was able to edit my previous post finally after I switched browsers. Something about the security settings in Microsoft Edge wasn't playing nice. Firefox seems to work better. Lots of reading to do to catch up before I start asking my usual dumb questions!

I have been informed by another forum member that I should not be posting informal classifieds in the regular forum. Is there any way to delete the post? I'll re-post the classified in the correct area.

Hi, I've been away from the forum for a few years, but I have a desire to get back to wrenching, so I thought I'd stop in and see what's going on here. I see a few of the old familiar names! Times have been a little tough for me, financially and health-wise, but are turning around a bit. I would like to sell some of the stuff I have in storage to finance the next bit of restoration. I have more than I will be able to finish in this lifetime, so I would consider offers if anyone is interested. I'm in Cincinnati, Ohio. Check the classifieds for some of the stuff I've got. Look forward to chatting with you guys again. Send me an email if anything interests you. tonyurwin95@gmail.com

Might be a nice resource link if legit. Stromberg carbs 1934-1953