Tony_Urwin

My B1C has a seat back that is hinged at the top. Just had to drive the hinge pins out to remove it. It sounds like there are some different types of seats on our trucks.

According to the emails he sent, he got the seal from the warehouse, and asked me for my address ( I had already given it to him in an earlier email). It's coming from New Delhi, so it may take awhile.

It's easy enough to make gaskets out of old tire tubes. Cut a piece a little larger than the door handle and mount the handle on top of it. Mark around the handle with a Sharpie, then remove the rubber and cut with a sturdy pair of scissors.

Gesco Seals is indeed in India, and I have been corresponding with a gentleman there who is sending me a Gesco 5737. He says he won't know the actual dimensions until he gets it from the warehouse. For what it's worth, the measurements I get are 2.525 from the retainer and 1.581 from the yoke (after a speedy sleeve). So the National 1216N is a better fit for me than the Timken 471827. I'll post the dimensions of the Gesco 5737 when I get it.

I wish I knew. If anyone is clear, please chime in here. Otherwise, just post your bids here or on the thread in Forum Support Auctions. I'll send the book and trust the winner to send in the donation to GTK, who provides this wonderful forum.

The first bid has been placed!

It's not a diet you need, Reg. It's gainful employment. Move to Cincinnati and I'll pay you $10/hr to fix my truck. It would run better too. My sorry efforts only keep it on the road about 50% of the time.

It looks like the auction needs to be approved by GTK. Check back to see the auction when he approves my post.

With my apologies to Reg, I have two copies of the Dodge Pickups, History and Restoration Guide. I will auction one off for a forum donation. Check the Forum Support Auctions link if you are interested. Shipping is on me.

I get confused about this too. In the "Dodge B-Series Trucks" book by Don Bunn, it shows a B-108 1/2 ton express and an D-116 express. Also a D-126 express. These are all posted on the display signs for factory photographs.

I gotta wonder if this might not be a Cuban photograph. They haven't been able to get parts for American vehicles since the embargo, so they craft some interesting hybrid vehicles.

October. It just hit the newstands this last week at my local bookstore.

Thanks, Ed. That link is a company in New Delhi, India and the website doesn't have any links to an American distributor. I sent them an email, so maybe I will have some good news later today.

Thanks, Merle. I appreciate the advice. Of course, I will curse your name all over the forum if it leaks (just kidding) I did have a great experience while searching for the rear seal. I was standing at the parts counter at NAPA when an old man walked through the door and asked if someone would help him carry in an AC compressor. Turns out he was Charlie "the Whip" Davis, one of the stars of the old Negro leagues. What a guy! For 40 minutes, he told me stories about bunking with Charlie Pride (who played baseball before he turned to music) and how he pitched 20 games against Satchel Paige. Made my day!

Hank, I've searched the forum posts, and found several part numbers suggested. Both Tod Fitch and Merle Collins found the part number for the rear trans seal to be 600420. Tod suggested that this would cross to National 5737 or Victor 49115. Unfortunately, these part numbers did me no good at NAPA, KOI, or Smythe. I even tried NAPA part #15620, which is the P-15 rear seal (it's too small). I took the yoke and retainer into the parts stores and several guys have measured the parts and ordered seals for me. National 1216N (1.575 x 2.528 x 0.472) is the closest I have found so far. Like I said, the OD is just not a real good tight fit. A few thousandths larger and it would have been perfect. Greybeard suggested Speedy Sleeve # 99159, which fit the yoke perfectly. I wish Merle or some of the other great mechanics here would chime in and offer their opinion whether I should try to install this seal with some high temp permatex. Mama don't allow no oil spots round here!

I need a rear transmission seal but haven't had great luck finding the right size. I've made several trips to several parts stores (NAPA, Smythe, KOI) over the past week trying to find the correct size seal. The best I have found so far is Federal-Mogul 1216N. The ID is a tight seal to the yoke, but the OD is only snug inside the bearing retainer. I can push the seal into the retainer without a hammer, and pull it back out by hand. Any opinions on whether this will work for me? The seal has a flange so I can't stake it. Will permatex hold it against the pressure?

My thanks to Allan Parkhurst for supplying me with the parts I lost! I'm back on the road as soon as I locate a rear transmission seal in the right size. Now if the weatherman would just provide some nice cool cruisin' weather....

Looks great! I haven't gotten to the paint stage yet, but wouldn't it be easier to install the stainless bfore the grill gets bolted to the fenders?

Restoring a stainless piece is a series of steps. Hammer out the dents use a file to bring the piece back to perfect shape sand the piece with progressively finer paper buff to the final shine with stainless compound and jewelers rouge A grinder might work in a pinch, but a larger 1/3 to 1/2 hp motor makes for much better buffing. You need eye protection, usually a full face shield. You also need leather gloves because 1) the metal gets extremely hot, and 2) the pieces can get ripped out of your hands. If your attention slips, the wheel can grab the stainless and the trim becomes a sword or spear in a nanosecond. Restoring stainless or aluminum trim is not rocket science, but it is dirty, time-consuming, and extremely hard on the back and neck. If you have some experience doing hammer & dolly bodywork, it is a lot the same, just on a smaller scale.

The Porter Cable unit is also great for buffing the orange peel that amateur painters like me always have to deal with. Use a different pad and its great for waxing/polishing.

Hi Jack, the trim is not really chrome, it's stainless. I can repair the dings and polish the trim if the dents are not too serious. I do trim repair and polishing at $25/hr. If you send me photos, I can give you an estimate. There is a vendor who regularly advertises the complete set polished to perfection for $850 on eBay. Right now I have a dozen parts for a muscle car waiting to be repaired, so it would be a month or two before I could finish your pieces.

Sorry we got you so riled. To be fair, I think Don has already posted every photo of his excellent work, and I for one am grateful that he has done so.

I went to the link and read some of the posts. ON the first page there were 3 different forum members whose entire post was: BTTT My understanding is that this means Back to the Top. Can someone explain this to me- what it is used for, and why would they all post this message?

Man, this is such a great forum. My thanks to Allan, GTK, and all the other folks who make this hobby so great!

I was offered some cross & retainer U-joints at a very reasonable price, so I guess I will keep the old style U-joints instaed of swapping in the newer style like I had planned. The only problem is: I can only find 7 of the cross and retainer. The gremlins must have stolen one set. Anyone have an extra set that they could sell me?