Sniper

Yes, that is normal. In fact it is a measurable quantity used to calculate caster during an alignment.

I bought a 12 volt jump pack at Harbor Freight from a lawn tractor because it's battery is dead completely. It has no problems firing it up I don't think it has a minimum voltage requirement and I think it has a lead acid battery

No I do not profess to be an Overdrive experts. But why would they tell you not to use the governor?

Here's the appropriate TSB for that specific issue. It's more than just a clamp. TSB 07-171-20 Battery Sensor Removal.pdf

The operation of the OD is not dependent on what voltage your system may be. So not using the governor would be a "bad thing" for me. Only thing I can think of with that comment in the directions is that the governor itself is designed to use 6v. They make a 12v version. As for polarity and such, wiring doesn't know or care. Using a toggle switch instead of the factory kick down switch is functional, I suppose, but likely a PITA in use. Not sure why they tell you not to use it, a 6v switch having 12v run thru it is not likely to be an issue. As far as the physical wiring is concerned, if properly made, the 6v harness should have heavier gauge wire and would work on either voltage, the 12v wiring might be undersized for 6v use.

Here's the official announcement

That happens a lot, to me,lol

Hey attention to detail is a good thing, clean it up, see if it's an old stain or one that is actively occurring.

Yes, excellent advice. But he has a 51 Plymouth, those shocks are a little off. Will they work? I dunno, compression height, which is most critical, is .125" shorter than the spec for a 51 shock. They may not bottom out, but if they do, well bad things can happen. Now one might wonder if it makes a difference, but the factory thought so even if the 50 and earlier specs are close to the 51 specs, they aren't the same.

Those are for the rears, I would pull my old ones, measure the compressed and extended lengths to verify. As for the fronts, my link above is what I found

Unfortunately, that doesn't cover the 51 shocks, which are different, I found the post I made on the front shocks

Last time I looked You couldn't get front shocks. So I ended up finding a set of gas charged shots that could be modified and made to work in the stock application if you search around on this site you'll find my post on that. For the rears I got a set of b-body rear shocks they have enough travel and collapsed and extended length to work and the selections a whole lot better

You know what would tell you if you had a valve problem? A compression test. I would just use some brake clean to remove the deposit maybe put a torque wrench on those nuts and see if they're tight and observe.

I don't have a problem with the old Mopar ECU setup. The problem I have with it is finding a quality ECU these days. It seems the main power transistor they used to use is no longer made in the US and the overseas copies are very poorly done.

I'm not as familiar with the call-outs with the early Mopar era stuff but the later cars will tell you what the transmission code is and then that will tell you the clutch application.

Assuming you're going with the Mopar ECU that's a good diagram. I I am going with an HEI module myself.

Is the determining difference that the new pumps have sealed bearings? I have no data to support my conclusion but yes I think you are correct

NOt sure the original style, with a grease nipple, will. But new builds do, I am running a 14lb cap on my system with no issues so far

Well assuming it is still all original I bet the IBM card from the Chrysler historical society would help you figure it out. Short of that I don't know. But typically heavy-duty applications like taxi service had a bigger clutch

But it is how the size is gained that matters most. Adding in a third row, but over all height and width are the same, not so much an improvement as the third row restricts airflow and has hotter air flowing across it. Themodynamics show that the biggest factor in heat transfer is the difference between the heated medium and the cooling medium, the larger the differences the greater the effect. Now if you were to take a two core radiator and lengthen it enough to add in the same amount of tubes a three row gave you then you'd see a larger increase in cooling than the same tubes in a three row configuration. Which is not to say you don't get some increase in cooling with a three row, it's just a diminishing return in that style packaging. Lots of mopars had wider radiators in a HD cooling package. 22 vs 26" radiators come to mind. However, if you don;t hae the room, or don;t want to cut up the core support, then you are limited to what can fit there and in that case a three row is an improvement, of sorts. Of course there are other factors too, such as fin count. More fins per inch of tube length is better,, until it gets dense enough to restrict airflow. To overcome that, to an extent, you make wider tubes that allow more fin to tube contact. That is limited by materials strength though, Aluminum tubes can be wider than brass in this case, but brass conducts heat better, however the lead based solder that connect the fins to the tube, in brass applications, negates that to an extent. Aluminum tubes and fins are welded, all aluminum, so no lead restricting heat flow. Many variables

Here's the write up I did when I ran into this issue.

Wasn't responding to you, I was responding to QEC's comment.

You ordered a set for the 23" engines. All Chryslers, Desotos adn Canadian vehicles use the 25" setup, I nthe future look it up as a Chrysler not a Dodge engine or select the Canadian option. FEL-PRO MS8583B

What aligns the transmission to the bellhousing is the input bearing retainer outer diameter and the corresponding hole in the Bell housing.

looks like it, made in LA.