Sniper

I always loved the 38's

I believe 12bolt bought Langdon out?

Love that Sedan Delivery

While uncommon it is not unknown for a brand new battery to be bad especially under a heavy load. And starting your car is the heaviest load it will ever see. I would put a meter on it try to start the car and see what the voltage drops down to

I cannot answer your question directly. But what I have done in the past when I come across a fastener that the manual has no torque specification for is I look up the torque spec for a nut with that thread pitch and diameter. Now there are some important things you need to know to get the correct spec if it's a plated fastener you need to know what type of plating because that will affect the specification. But generally speaking those kind of things in our applications are unplated so you don't really have to worry about it. Also if you use any kind of lubricant on the threads that will change the torque specification. Usually at least in the later Mopar, the threads are lubricated with 30 weight engine oil for the specifications given. I don't know if that applies to Studebakers or even the early Mopar manuals

Countersunk bolts are self-aligning. So when you bolt that adapter plate to the bell housing it's going to bolt into the same position every time, theoretically. If it were a free floating setup such as you would have with hex head bolts then there would be opportunity for it to move around. I would Mount up the adapter plate check the run out in accordance with the service manual and adjust it for Center, torque down those bolts make sure everything still in spec and then drill a couple of alignment holes and run a pin through them so that that plate goes on to the same spot every time in the future. Not that you'd have a lot of call for removing it. If it's off, it would not surprise me if the later model offset dial pin that was mentioned would also work on our flatheads to adjust it. The factory does all of that when they built the assembly so theoretically if your adapter plate is perfectly centered on the bell housing, then you should not be any more off than the factory had it. Yeah, some of us can be belt and suspender types. But inherently, we're lazy, LOL. We'd rather do it once, do it right, and never have to do it again. The thing about the adapter plate is that those guys don't know your specific situation. Maybe you swapped out the bell housing, and even the factory will tell you if you do that you need to double check the run out.

Sometimes research can take you down a rabbit hole lol. I've run into that quite a bit. When I made my air cleaners for my dual throttle body fuel injection setup I just pretty much decided to squeeze in the biggest air filters I could and that turned out to be 7 inch diameter for each throttle body. Since then I've rethought it and I've decided to go with a 14 inch air cleaner and just punched two holes in the base plate to mount on the throttle bodies and have them share a common element. Will that work better? I don't know did I do the math to see which had more area for filtration? Nope. I just kind of winged it LOL

Everything else being equal water has better thermal transfer characteristics than any mixture of coolant and water. We're coolant and that's mostly a misnomer shines is in Corrosion Prevention and not freezing as easily. Depending on the type of coolant it can run hotter without boiling over as well. But unless your car is on the edge of overheating with coolant running straight water is always a bad idea. At the temporary measure once you fix the leak to get you home sure to run it all the time that's a great way of asking for a lot of crud in your cooling system

Yes, that is normal. In fact it is a measurable quantity used to calculate caster during an alignment.

I bought a 12 volt jump pack at Harbor Freight from a lawn tractor because it's battery is dead completely. It has no problems firing it up I don't think it has a minimum voltage requirement and I think it has a lead acid battery

No I do not profess to be an Overdrive experts. But why would they tell you not to use the governor?

Here's the appropriate TSB for that specific issue. It's more than just a clamp. TSB 07-171-20 Battery Sensor Removal.pdf

The operation of the OD is not dependent on what voltage your system may be. So not using the governor would be a "bad thing" for me. Only thing I can think of with that comment in the directions is that the governor itself is designed to use 6v. They make a 12v version. As for polarity and such, wiring doesn't know or care. Using a toggle switch instead of the factory kick down switch is functional, I suppose, but likely a PITA in use. Not sure why they tell you not to use it, a 6v switch having 12v run thru it is not likely to be an issue. As far as the physical wiring is concerned, if properly made, the 6v harness should have heavier gauge wire and would work on either voltage, the 12v wiring might be undersized for 6v use.

Here's the official announcement

That happens a lot, to me,lol

Hey attention to detail is a good thing, clean it up, see if it's an old stain or one that is actively occurring.

Yes, excellent advice. But he has a 51 Plymouth, those shocks are a little off. Will they work? I dunno, compression height, which is most critical, is .125" shorter than the spec for a 51 shock. They may not bottom out, but if they do, well bad things can happen. Now one might wonder if it makes a difference, but the factory thought so even if the 50 and earlier specs are close to the 51 specs, they aren't the same.

Those are for the rears, I would pull my old ones, measure the compressed and extended lengths to verify. As for the fronts, my link above is what I found

Unfortunately, that doesn't cover the 51 shocks, which are different, I found the post I made on the front shocks

Last time I looked You couldn't get front shocks. So I ended up finding a set of gas charged shots that could be modified and made to work in the stock application if you search around on this site you'll find my post on that. For the rears I got a set of b-body rear shocks they have enough travel and collapsed and extended length to work and the selections a whole lot better

You know what would tell you if you had a valve problem? A compression test. I would just use some brake clean to remove the deposit maybe put a torque wrench on those nuts and see if they're tight and observe.

I don't have a problem with the old Mopar ECU setup. The problem I have with it is finding a quality ECU these days. It seems the main power transistor they used to use is no longer made in the US and the overseas copies are very poorly done.

I'm not as familiar with the call-outs with the early Mopar era stuff but the later cars will tell you what the transmission code is and then that will tell you the clutch application.

Assuming you're going with the Mopar ECU that's a good diagram. I I am going with an HEI module myself.

Is the determining difference that the new pumps have sealed bearings? I have no data to support my conclusion but yes I think you are correct