Sam Buchanan

The Carter I use is a rotary vane pump and while it doesn't clack-clack like a Facet or similar diaphragm pump it does generate some "turbine" noise. The key to addressing this is two-fold---isolate and ignore. I rubber mounted my Carter after running it hard-mounted for awhile and the only time I hear it is while it is humming in the quiet garage as it primes the carb. Once the mighty 218 is running I no longer hear the pump. It is mounted on the frame just forward of the fuel tank. The Carter rotary pump can be sourced for less than $100.

Your boot looks different from mine but it appears your boot is installed backwards. Most likely the large end should be on the driveshaft and the small end around the trunnion. Here is the installation on my P15:

Same location on my P15, the Carter 6v pump has been the sole pump five flawless years.

My bad....I got your thread mixed up in my head with another thread that is also discussing charging problems.

You're going to need to find out why you aren't seeing battery voltage at the regulator BAT terminal................

Wouldn’t be a factor if voltage is measured via the BAT terminal and opposite post on the battery or other good ground.

But the BAT terminal on the regulator should show battery voltage regardless of whether or not the generator is idling or running at full output. If battery voltage isn't present there must be a wiring fault.

My P15 weighs about the same as a nicely optioned Honda Civic. The old Plymouth looks heavy but isn’t. I suspect the P15 would get opened up like a tin can if involved in a collision with a modern, steel beam reinforced vehicle. Most vehicles these days are trucks or SUVs and they outweigh the Plymouth by a ton……get hit by a 7000lb e-car and not only will we be crushed but burned to a crisp by the lithium battery fire! 🤪

Hmmmm......shouldn't the BAT terminal on the regulator show battery voltage regardless of whether or not the regulator or generator is working? That terminal is connected via the ammeter to the battery.

38plymouth is in Florida, with the density altitude in Florida this time of year 18" might be a pretty decent number. I'm at 592' above sea level but yesterday at mid-day the density altitude was 3800'. Tweaking to get the number as high as possible is certainly worthwhile, but that number could vary depending on local conditions.

Yep....no excuse for not hitting Google before posting here............ https://www.seatbeltsplus.com/

Current thread with a good report on the Daytona carb: https://p15-d24.com/topic/61881-daytona-parts-co-un2-carburetor/

Use a Dremel tool with a cutoff disk to cut the access hole in the floor. The disk won't need to protrude below the floor more than about 1/8" so the tank will be safe. If the floor is flat a nibbler or metal shear might do the job. https://www.harborfreight.com/5-amp-14-gauge-metal-shears-64609.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=118355033753&adsetid=118355033753&product=64609&store=3256&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwlbu2BhA3EiwA3yXyu_SGxrClWmpk9WrNzNRo0kLkIRDpR3aLZf5xq2mgg-Asp1BT-4hxBRoCWU8QAvD_BwE

Thanks for the info, that is interesting and parallels my experience with a full-time electric pump (and mechanical pump block-off plate) for the past five years. The Carter 90091 is also available from Amazon for $20 less than the Summit price: https://www.amazon.com/Carter-P90091-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B07BBDSZP1

Excellent feedback! Could you share the tips you received in regard to an electric fuel pump?

Impressive!

Update to my earlier posts about using solid-state relays for the headlights in the P15: I found there was about a one volt drop across the relays which negates the rational for using relays. I double and triple checked my measurement and something in the solid-state circuitry was causing the drop. I purchased 6v Bosch-style relays and installed them in place of the solid-state modules. They work great, voltage drop from the battery terminals to the headlight side of the new relays is only about one tenth of a volt.....definitely within my idea of acceptable. I used terminal strips for the connections so everything could be quickly returned to the original wiring if a relay failed mid-trip. The relays I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G9VXC1B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Just for an overview, the original headlight wiring from the dimmer switch is coming into view at the bottom of the photo and is connected to the lower terminal block. Coming out of the top of the lower block are the black and white wires to the relays to send the signal voltage to energize the relays via the dimmer switch. Coming in from the top of the upper block are the fused feeds directly from the battery. The heavy wires at the bottom of that block carry battery current to the relays (blue wires) and then back to the block (yellow wires) where the bundle of black wires are connected to the high and low beams.

To my uncalibrated eyes during the drive home last night they appear to be very close to halogen sealed beams. They are definitely not blue-white.

I’ve posted details of this kit on the big aircooled VW forum and a couple of members have related how they were able to get next day delivery from their local Toyota dealer. The price seems to be about the same either way. It took about two weeks for my shipments to arrive from Lakeland but this wasn’t time critical for me. The lights work very well in the Beetle and TR6. I’m going to mod a set for the P15.

Here is my thread on installing leather boots: https://p15-d24.com/topic/59682-installing-leather-u-joint-boots/ The boots are available here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1947-1948-PLYMOUTH-P15-U-JOINT-LEATHER-COVER-MOPAR-SPECIAL-DELUXE-CHRYCO/182964254211?hash=item2a9984f603:g:XO4AAOSwWCBax6DG The boots have over a thousand miles on them and look great.

Since you have already tried some valid checks my next step would be to use a stethoscope to try to find out best as possible the general area where the sound is originating. That might narrow down the options for you.......hope you find a solution soon.

I was thinking in terms of a good-ol'-boy rate that Joe was suggesting. And yes, it has been a long time since I've been in a shop, never had anything on my old cars farmed out except for having the TR6 head machined locally.

$100 might cover two hours of shop time! 😁

I bet there is a good chance the exhaust shop will have one in stock.

75W-80