Sam Buchanan

The Toyota relays may function fine on 6v but I don't have any info about that.

The relays may not function on 6v.

Don't be surprised if it takes at least two weeks for the kit to arrive, it appears Lakeland is ordering the kit from the Toyota warehouse then shipping it to us. It'll arrive in Toyota packaging.

There is one installation issue you may need to resolve. The black ground wire in the socket that plugs into the car's headlight harness to pick up the relay signals must be grounded. You can cut the black wire, connect the Toyota harness side of it to ground and all will be good. The plug only needs to see high and low beam voltage from the car harness to activate the relays.

I haven't seen a 6v pump that resembles the Carter from any other brand than Carter. May be one out there but it seems this particular pump is unique to Carter.

This topic came to my attention on the Triumph TR6 forum and after installing this kit I'm really impressed with the quality of the components and the price is amazing. Here is what is included in the kit which was offered by Toyota as an upgrade to Toyota Land Cruisers. Two 7" Kioto (compare to Cibie) reflectors (very high quality with sharp low-beam cut-off pattern) Two H4 halogen bulbs Wiring harness with weatherproof connectors, two relays, and two fuses This is high-dollar stuff and blessed by the Toyota mothership. Now, for the kicker. This kit is surplus inventory that Toyota wants to unload since these headlights haven't been used on their vehicles for nearly three decades. We can purchase this overstock for the ridiculous price of: $16.91 + $15.00 shipping I have installed one kit on my TR6 and have another on the way for the '69 Beetle. These lights are a great upgrade over the standard sealed beams and as a bonus the relays take nearly all the current load off the headlight switch and dimmer switch. Included in the harness is a plug that goes into one of the original headlight harness sockets and takes a signal current from it and drives the relays which supplies full battery voltage to the lights. Here is the Toyota dealer in Lakeland FL where I've bought my kits: https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/ This is the link on their site for the lighting kit: https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/__/16033390/8111060P70.html I have no idea how long this overstock will last. Some of the TR6 guys have purchased the kit through their local Toyota dealer. This should be a great upgrade for the 12v cars since the alternator can easily pull these lights. Conversion to LED would be a matter of removing the H4 halogen bulbs and installing LED H4 bulbs. But these lights are so good I wouldn't take the chance on messing up the great light pattern by using LEDs with unknown pattern.

While we are talking lights, I've come across a great headlight upgrade for you guys running 12v.....and the price is an absolute steal. I'll start a new thread about this conversion.

Nothing is making me think anything. All I stated is that "Carter" is an American brand and much of the items I get on Amazon are not. Buy what makes you happy...................

Well.....that photo did spark an idea....why not have the retractor pretty much in the location shown but attached to a steel fitting that extends to the floor? I could make that work and satisfy attachment criteria with doublers under the floor. There would still need to be a loop above shoulder height on the door pillar to make this work with shoulder belts. Thanks for the photo!

I don't have anything to offer other than just try it. I think the Carter, even if built offshore, would have better reliability than a Ching Whang Chong or other unknown brand. I don't know where the Carter in my P15 was built but it has been flawless for four and half years.

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After exchanging emails with @Happy 46R he has found he needs bulbs with staggered lugs. I think this bulb, an 1154, will be what he needs. It is dual circuit and non-polarity sensitive. https://www.ledlight.com/g18-s25-2_6-watt-1157-6-volt-ac-non-polarity.aspx

My automotive LED experience is limited to the changes I have made in my cars and I've found variations in all three applications. My ability to remotely troubleshoot somebody else's car, especially one where wiring has been modified is probably not useful since some sleuthing would most likely be needed even with the car in front of me. As described, yes, it seems you need three 1158 LED bulbs, IF, repeat IF, the existing bulbs have lugs that are at the same level on the bulb base. You need to check what you have in your car prior to ordering LEDs. I recommend you get red ones so the tail lights won't appear pink as they might with white LEDs. The first thing I would check in regard to your trunk light would be if voltage drop is occurring which can cause things to get flakey. This could be faulty wiring but more likely poor grounds in our often corroded light fixtures. Install the flasher first and insure your signals still work properly before switching bulbs. Then change one bulb at a time and verify proper operation. Changing more than one thing at a time can really complicate troubleshooting.

I don’t think what you observed was due to coolant. There are reasons why an engine might run too warm when stopped but being less than a pint low won’t overheat a healthy cooling system.

50/50 blend will lower the freezing point to 0F or below, use the chart on the jug if using non-diluted antifreeze. If your radiator is non-pressurized (open vent) don't fill higher than an inch or so below the neck so it won't slosh out. Pressurized radiator can be topped if you wish.

Just hook it up correctly. 😀 Look very closely, one terminal will be stamped with "X", as Plymouthy stated that is power. The opposite terminal is load, your lights. The pigtail MUST be grounded.

Does your new flasher have a wiring schematic with it? If so, use it instead of relying on how the old flasher was connected.

Here are the installation notes about a spin-on bypass filter on my P15: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50622-installing-a-spin-on-bypass-oil-filter-photos/#comment-537063 You may be just as well off changing oil every 1000 miles instead of installing a bypass filter if the car isn't driven on long trips. My car didn't have a filter until I installed this one.

I can now confirm this flasher works perfectly with a combination of filament and LED bulb and also with a full LED light system. The install of the flasher and LED bulbs went smoothly and they look GREAT! I bought red LEDS for the tail and brake lights and warm white for the front running/signal lights. The warm white looks original except brighter and has the characteristic instant on/off flashing of LED bulbs. I like 'em! One way I've always been able to confirm brake or signal lights are working is by watching the ammeter bouncing. However, the LEDs pull so little current the ammeter needle doesn't deflect. But I think this is a good thing.

After you get tired of messing with the generator/regulator you might consider the final charging system solution. https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Should work, the third terminal is for a dash indicator light.

I just ordered this LED flasher because the description states it will work with a combination of standard and LED bulbs. I think you will need this or a similar flasher to get the LED bulbs to flash at the proper rate. Very reasonably priced at $17.99. I'm replacing all tail, brake and signal bulbs with LED, cost about $50 for the complete conversion from the vendor below. @46Chris said he is pleased with their bulbs. https://www.ledlight.com/flasher-cf13-6-volt-dc-led-compatible-3-terminal-150-watt.aspx

Theoretically.......one fuse is not as lacking on these very simple cars as it might first appear. A fault anywhere in the protected wiring should blow the fuse and protect the wiring. The problem is that a fault in an isolated location (one tail light?) could take out all the lights. Individual fuses work around this scenario. A good rule of thumb is to only replace the fuse one time. If the fault was random the new fuse might last long enough to get home, but if it blows a second time there is probably a major fault and game over until the fault is repaired. As stated above, in-line fuses can be used to add more specific protection. The heater motor is a good place for an in-line fuse, just make sure it has a lower rating than the main fuse. But replacing ALL the wiring is the only way to properly install a new fuse panel, and a 12v harness is a big no-no because the wires can be too small for the greater load of a 6v system. So have a good understanding of the wiring architecture before making changes, be sure new problems are not added where none existed previously.

If your wiring is still original.....yes.....one fuse on the headlight switch. It was a different world back then.

A couple of observations..... Back in the day it was common to park the car in reverse, that offers maximum resistance to rolling because of the large gear ration. You mentioned an overflow tank for the radiator.......not needed, just leave coolant level about an inch and a half below the neck and sloshout won't occur. You have a nice car....enjoy!