Sam Buchanan

I’ve posted details of this kit on the big aircooled VW forum and a couple of members have related how they were able to get next day delivery from their local Toyota dealer. The price seems to be about the same either way. It took about two weeks for my shipments to arrive from Lakeland but this wasn’t time critical for me. The lights work very well in the Beetle and TR6. I’m going to mod a set for the P15.

Here is my thread on installing leather boots: https://p15-d24.com/topic/59682-installing-leather-u-joint-boots/ The boots are available here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1947-1948-PLYMOUTH-P15-U-JOINT-LEATHER-COVER-MOPAR-SPECIAL-DELUXE-CHRYCO/182964254211?hash=item2a9984f603:g:XO4AAOSwWCBax6DG The boots have over a thousand miles on them and look great.

Since you have already tried some valid checks my next step would be to use a stethoscope to try to find out best as possible the general area where the sound is originating. That might narrow down the options for you.......hope you find a solution soon.

I was thinking in terms of a good-ol'-boy rate that Joe was suggesting. And yes, it has been a long time since I've been in a shop, never had anything on my old cars farmed out except for having the TR6 head machined locally.

$100 might cover two hours of shop time! 😁

I bet there is a good chance the exhaust shop will have one in stock.

75W-80

An email to Battery Tender tech support would probably be your best option for a valid answer.

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Joe, I was wondering if the master switch on the pack would work, don't know if the master is designed to carry the load of the pack or merely triggers some sort of relay. After studying jump packs I also wondered if the fail-safe circuitry in some packs would prevent the pack from delivering power if it sensed momentary high current arcing. But it looks like your pack does the job. The method I described will work with a booster battery and (big!) jumper cables, and it is best to make the momentary connection at the booster rather than the starter.

If the jumper cable makes contact with the large starter terminal, and the starter isn't engaged with the ignition switch, the voltage regulator doesn't see 12v so it isn't a factor.

In the course of rewiring the headlights on my P15 with relays and fuses I found the original wire that was still under the cable wrap was in excellent condition. Only the cloth insulation on wires that protruded from the cable wrap had weathered and deteriorated. So if enough cable wrap is removed to reveal good insulation then shrink wrap can be installed over the frayed areas and the harness will be in serviceable condition so that complete replacement may not be needed. I used 12g for the headlight circuits, it appears that is the gauge for the high beams and 14g was original for low beams.

The MTL may get better with some added miles. Be sure your clutch doesn't have any drag when the pedal is depressed.

Yep, the cable was blocking the view of the goodies.

Update; The solid-state modules in this post created a voltage drop that I felt was unacceptable. They were replaced with Bosch-style 6v relays which work very nicely with practically no voltage drop. Details are in a post further down this thread. ========================= For reasons discussed above I rolled my own relay harness in the 6v P15, still using the halogen sealed beams but may upgrade to the Toyota H4 reflectors. I post this in case someone is interested in doing something similar. The relays are solid-state devices available from the usual sources at very reasonable cost. I used 12g wire to carry the heavy current inherent in the 6v architecture and kept the runs as short as possible. Are the lights brighter? I don't know, haven't taken any comparison readings. But I like how the light and dimmer switches are now relieved from handling the total headlight load and the risk of overheating (or worse) should be practically eliminated, especially with the LED tail, brake and signal bulbs. Also, the low and high beams now have direct fused feeds from the battery instead of the single fuse on the headlight switch carrying the total load and being a single-point failure. Hopefully this will be an upgrade that will prove to be reliable, time will tell.

Insert a copper slug in place of the fuse?? Similar to the ol' penny in the fuse box that burned down a few houses.......

Not needed just to run down the road......roll down the windows (if you have any!!)

My notes (with additional info from forum members) on the conversion to a stealthy paper filter: https://p15-d24.com/topic/56200-converting-air-filter-from-oil-to-paper/

Excellent point, glad you brought this up, this is why I'm not using a kit to modify the headlights on my P15. I'm installing solid-state relays and fuses and making my own "harness" using 12g for the short runs to put everything together. If my wiring upgrade works well, I may still buy a kit for the reflectors since my new relays, wiring, etc are sized for 6v. $32 for two nice reflectors is still a good deal.....and the bulbs will be spares for my other two kits.

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I installed a set in the '69 VW yesterday, test drive last night was significantly better than the standard sealed beams that were in the car previously. I chopped up the harness to make it fit the car better and everything worked as it should first try. Considering the quality of the components it is a steal!

Plymouthy, here is the relay, I couldn't find any data, maybe you are familiar with it.

I crawled under the car to take a look at the Carter pump but couldn't see any country of origin markings. Yes, it is indeed a rotary vane pump, see the spec sheet I linked above. And...as I have stated several time previously I haven't had to use a regulator on either of the cars with the Carter pumps.

The Carter spec page doesn't list pressure output: https://carterengineered.com/electric-fuel-pump-p4259 However, I have about twelve years history with these pumps on two cars and never had an issue with the carb needle valve, the pumps have been flawless with no regulator. I don't know the answer to your question about fuel draw through the inactive pump, I've only used it as a full-time pump with no mechanical pump. If I only wanted a primer or backup pump to use with a mechanical I would install one of the smaller, cheaper pumps....(and carry a spare?).