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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. Congrats on your new ride! It looks great and reminds me of the U-Haul ride my "new" '48 took to my shop. These are great cars to work on and will give you many miles of enjoyable cruising. You can change your signature now. The P15 has the better butt......... ?
  2. I know this is thread creep but I'll toss in this tidbit on work place organization for what ever it is worth. The following is an article I wrote 25 years ago for my aircraft construction journal and it has been reprinted in other publications. Working Smart This shop discipline has served me well and prevented me from wasting time chasing "lost" tools!
  3. What do you mean by “loosened some of the adjustments”?
  4. Great find! And yes, the horns are stock and they sound fantastic! Everyone will say "Now that's a horn!".
  5. I wasn't referring to tape, just some type of lubricant such as a teflon thread sealant. The point is to get the plug to thread into the crusty threads far enough to seal via thread interference.
  6. I would get a new steel plug, lubricate it with teflon sealant and thread the steel plug into the head.
  7. Probably shouldn't try chasing the threads unless you REALLY know what you are doing. Mess up those thread and you have a real problem.
  8. A rudimentary test just to prove it isn’t totally dead is to hook up one end of a line to it and suck on the other end. If resistance is felt remove the distributor cap and see if the points plate is moving when you apply vacuum. Most likely the diaphragm is blown and it won’t hold a vacuum and move the plate. Another failure mode is the unit being stuck.
  9. It only took Mr. Google 3 milliseconds to answer that question: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mep-14b
  10. Photos of the vacuum line in my '48 P15. The elbow at the carb eliminates the need for a sharp bend in the line. Also visible is the line crossing the cylinder head. As a bonus the home-made heat shield for the carb is also shown. Here is the stress relief loop at the distributor that allows it to rotate to set timing.
  11. The elbow for the carb has 1/8" NPT threads. I don't recall exact size, Just get a line that has fittings that match the one on the advance unit. As mentioned above rubber vacuum tubing will work, just make sure it is situated so it can't be damaged by the hot cylinder head. But I suspect you have a defective advance unit and that is the reason the port on the carb is plugged.
  12. It is likely the vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor is defective. The vacuum line was probably removed to eliminate an intake leak. A 1/8” NPT elbow at the carb and a pre-flared brake line is all that is needed to connect the vacuum advance. But verify the advance unit is working first make sure your line is long enough for a stress relief loop at the distributor.
  13. Yep, the throw out bearing that came with my clutch kit was junk, noisy and slung grease. Put the old bearing back in, life is good.
  14. Here is a parts manual for the drivetrain: http://www.amsnos.com/Help/MMPCPRE54.pdf
  15. You need to get out more.......... ?
  16. I don't know about the photo but 295 and 306 are interchangeable in our engines. The 295 is a non-resistor plug, works fine for me since I don't have a radio. However.....I pulled up next to my buddy's airplane hangar and my car's ignition system with copper-core wires slammed his aviation-band receiver with static! Use 306 if you have a radio......guess people wonder why their radio goes crazy when I pull up to a traffic light. ?
  17. My P15 is very happy with Autolite 295 plugs. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=54641&cc=1486874&pt=7212&jsn=380 A buck 57 apiece.
  18. Way too much thinkin' going on here. https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneous-non-automotive/electrical-wire/p/dorman-conduct-tite-red-8ft-10-gauge-primary-wire/1080860_0_0 Twelve bucks.
  19. That’s the coil I use on my P15. I bought it at a local parts house that does a lot of tractor business.
  20. No need to be hasty. The 6v battery in my P15 is four years old and still in great health. But it has an alternator sending it rated voltage at all times to maintain its full charge. However, it sat unused for a year before I purchased the car and still returned to a healthy state of charge. Many "battery problems" can be traced to poor charging system performance and sketchy wiring.
  21. Disconnect the trickle charger and find an old-school dumb charger and use it for 3-4 hours. That will bring voltage up enough for the smart trickle charger to engage.
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