Sam Buchanan

Remote diagnosing is always subject to error, but here are a couple of thoughts. The coil; the fact the engine will idle reliably takes the coil off my list. If the coil will function in the driveway it should work going down the road. Fuel flow; this seems to be a likely culprit. It doesn’t take much flow to keep an engine idling, but marginal flow will only get you a little ways down the road until the carb bowl runs dry. I would also take a close look at the float and needle valve.

Welcome to the forum! Your questions is one that has probably been discussed as much as any topic, there are dozens of threads concerning your inquiry. Here is a search that will get you started: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3A+p15-d24.com+disc+brakes&oq=site%3A+p15-d24.com+disc+brakes&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg60gEJMTM2OTVqMGo0qAIAsAIB&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#ip=1 There are vendors that offer conversions, some require less fabrication than others.

I don't have personal experience with the carb but I think I recall someone on the forum a year or so ago mentioning they have used one successfully. Maybe they will see this and respond.

You might be interested in this carb: https://newcarburetors.com/carbs/y200.html

I only wish she was still in the house..............🙁 I try to keep the cell phone within reach.

Don't rush into a carb replacement or rebuild, you're not at that point yet. Even a bad carb will run the engine if you pour fuel down the throat. Fuel leaks can be the result of a serviceable carb that just needs a little tweaking. Rule #1; diagnose and address ONE problem at a time, otherwise you don't know what is working or what isn't........ Rule #2; don't go to the bank with everything you see on YouTube!

Just for clarification, if your Desoto doesn't have the special head bolt for the ground cable lug DO NOT remove a head bolt just for the purpose of attaching the ground cable. You will tempt the Unintended Consequences gremlins...they can be ornery!! 😄 This whole deal is being waaay over-thought........

Certainly nothing wrong with using the stud you mentioned, but there is nothing sacred about that particular location. The bolt you see being used in my photo that secures the coil bracket is commonly used because it doesn't penetrate the water jacket and is easily reached. My car originally had the ground cable attached to one of the thermostat housing bolts but I prefer a bolt that isn't in the water jacket and is less likely to be subject to corrosion and a less than ideal connection. Main objective is to get a solid ground connection to the engine, location where you accomplish that is your preference. Measure the diameter of the bolt/stud you intend to use to determine the size of the cable terminal. I checked my paperwork and my cables have 5/16" lugs.

I'm another vote for the custom-made cables. Mine came from this vendor which I suspect is the same one that is also selling on eBay since both are coming our of Kentucky. My cables have 1000 strands which make them very flexible, the workmanship is first class and the price is very reasonable. https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg I bought the battery cables, starter cable, and a ground cable for the body.

And if the housing comes apart in your hands as mine did new ones are available. https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/j_cooling/water-pump-bypass-elbow-w-gasket/

I'm feeling a lot smarter this afternoon.......SLAP is a new one for me, too......don't know that I'll be using it in my universe, however...... Unless I decide to slap a new set of points in the P15...... 😆

So.....are you interested 6v but negative ground or converting to 12v negative ground? Your radio comment makes me think you are talking about 12v. If continuing with 6v all that is necessary is to switch the wires on the ammeter and coil. The starter will work just fine with either polarity. Converting to 12v is more involved, impacts nearly every system on the car. Your intended use of the car will determine whether or not the conversion is worth the effort.

That looks like a solid car. Having an intact interior is a huge bonus. Enjoy your new toy!

To address your question...the first thing you need is a Service Manual, and a Parts Manual is also helpful. You can search for them on eBay or get them from Rock Auto in either CD or hard copy. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1948,deluxe,3.8l+230cid+l6,1331873,literature,repair+manual,10335 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1948,deluxe,3.8l+230cid+l6,1331873,literature,part+guide,910 There are also tech articles in this forum, look at the header on the top of the main page for Tech, Downloads, and Resources. https://p15-d24.com/forum/4-p15-d24-forum/ You will also need to get familiar with often-used parts vendors, but determine what you need and then we can point you in a good direction. Enjoy your project!!

Here it is: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

One of many resources available to answer your questions. Maybe YouTube can translate into French.

15 psi should be enough to move the car on your lot. But to answer your question......old flat tires can't blow up because there isn't any air in them! 😄

You can't just roll the car back and forth to find neutral?

Probably condensation (water) in the muffler being turned to steam as the muffler got hot. As the engine continued to run all the water evaporated and the "smoke" disappeared.

I like 'em! All you need now is another trip to Home Depot for some Roundup. 🤣

I agree pulling the engine is the optimum path for overhaul. My point was that if an engine pull is not an option then a "service overhaul" is still possible that will extend the life of a tired engine for a reasonable length of time. An overhaul is a big job regardless of the method used. We do, however, have to recognize how the mechanic's age impacts decisions. Tasks that are challenging for my present self were not the case for the 20-40 year-old version of me.....but hopefully I now work smarter, not harder! Motivation is also greatly shaped by age. One size does not fit all......

Sounds like the overhauls that routinely occurred in the grease bay of gas stations back in the day. It worked then, it can still work. The transmission will need to be pulled so you can remove the flywheel if you decide to pull the crankshaft. But valves and cylinder honing can be done with the crankshaft in place if the pistons can be pulled out the top of the cylinders. A tool is available to remove a ridge at the top of the cylinder if that prevents piston removal.

Ok, point made. But 12v coils are available that don't require a resistor, I have one on the TR6.

Just for info sake, if a 12v coil is installed it doesn't require a ballast resistor. The standard 6v coil will need the resistor in a 12v conversion.

Crankshaft damper with Speedi-Sleeve I installed to repair a groove worn by the old seal(s).....standard seal is used with the sleeve.