Sam Buchanan

Oh no!! There is another forum that has been abused with this discussion?!? ?

Another method for finding highway rpm is with a gear ratio calculator. https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

A good way to see this is to remember the wire going to the distributor gets "grounded" to the engine block when the points close. Since you have a positive ground car the positive terminal on the coil should be connected to the distributor. However, the engine will run either way, but wire it correctly just because.

I use them because I'm afraid I might distort the clutch disc if the input shaft doesn't go in straight. They also hold the trans pretty much in alignment if the clutch disc needs to be fudged to get the splines to line up (I don't have the correct spline alignment tool).

If it is it isn't any problem to get out..... ?

I don't know your transmission will compare with the one in my P15 but this is what works in my case. You can determine the length of the pins while you still have the trans in the car. See how long they can be without running into clearance problems and go from there. These are pretty much the maximum length that allows me to remove them once the trans is in place.

Sniper gave you a link for NOS hubs five posts ago…….sigh……… But you don’t need a new hub if you installed a speedi-sleeve.

Dust barrier between the seal and damper? Or maybe for a different application.

They were free, the mechanical advance was working fine, verified with timing light.

Thank you for the tip, James. I checked the piston when I was looking for an intake leak and it seems fine. But the defective advance unit was the problem, the diaphragm was completely blown out and was an open vacuum leak to the intake manifold.

Dodgeb4ya answered your questions in his post and photos of yesterday.....has your friend seen those photos??? Marc, we all want to see you figure this out but this thread has now pegged the incredulous meter......box up your cover and a new seal, send them to Dodgeb4ya and put this to bed. ? ?

Here is a link to a plug comparison chart: https://www.autolitesparkplugs.com/heat-range-conversion-chart-2 However, look at this note about Autolite plugs which complicates things: Where is Autolite? Autolite's numbering system does not have a standardized heat range identifier. The last digit in an Autolite part number represents the heat range within a plug family. For example, take the 254x plug series. Autolite has 2544, 2545 and 2546 available. 2544 is the coldest plug in that plug family, and 2546 is the hotest. However, according to an Autolite reference chart, Autolite 86 has the same heat range as 2244 and Autolite 303 is a hotter plug than 2974. Therefore, it is impossible to chart an Autolite heat range hierarchy, let alone a standardized comparison to other spark plug brands.

Just to close the loop on this thread--the P15 ran nicely without a vacuum advance but I decided to install a new one since that is how the distributor was designed. I purchased a rebuilt advance from Bernbaum and even though I don't have numbers to support my observation (placebo effect?), the engine does seem to have a bit better midrange response. I didn't change the 10* BTDC static timing. The light throttle lean condition that started this thread is now gone.

Is that timing cover going to be useable after this punishment???

It doesn't matter. The alternator will only supply the amount of current needed to keep the battery charged. 100a would only be needed if there were very heavy loads (large electric fan, AC, emergency lights, flux capacitor...???).

Your new alternator has an internal voltage regulator, that is the beauty of the one-wire system, no external regulator needed. Follow Plymouthy's advice, either use the old terminal as a junction point or tie the wires together and toss the regulator. That is why you don't see a regulator in my installation, just a fuse between the car's BAT wire and the alternator's output.

I don't know exactly how the alternator's voltage regulator works, but that may be a normal reading if it can't "see" battery voltage.

A good shop rule....if you hit something five times and it doesn't move you need to try something different......

Looks like the alternator is working fine so you have a wiring problem. You need to use a multimeter to start at the connection where you attached the alternator to the BAT lead to verify voltage then start working downstream to find an open connection. I don't know if it would make any difference but disconnect the A and F wires from the regulator. You do have a wiring diagram, right? Use it to trace the paths from the alternator to the battery verifying voltage as you go. YOu should see about 7.5v with the alternator running. I don't understand your 10v reading....how did you test the alternator??

Not a chisel, a drift.

I have no reservations about sliding under the car with these stands under the frame rails. But I would set them on plywood if working on dirt.

The pitiful-looking hub on my 218 (no, that isn't a crack, just surface corrosion): Installing the Speedi-Sleeve: Good to go.

Yes and yes.

Take several photos before disassembly! ?

The tranny in my P15 works splendidly since going with RedLine oil so haven't had any reason to open it up. But the transmission in the Triumph TR6 was noisy so I decided to rebuild it even though I had never had an automotive trans apart. The rebuild went well and the transmission works as it should. But homework, organization and a bit of courage is necessary to take on your first transmission rebuild. Here is a method I found useful while taking apart the TR6 tranny to assist me in seeing how everything fits together...and to help with reassembly! The parts were stacked in order as they were removed and retained in order by the PVC holders. This allows careful study of the drawing while getting everything fixed in mind. Hope this helps!