CO54

Thanks for the input gents. With the link provided by JBNeal..... I see that I have a 218 or 230 based on numbers I see, how do you tell if the block is a 218 or 230? Please advise. Thanks. Eric

Wifey if looking forward to cleaning em and finding a way to restore/reuse all the original parts as we can..... She's a "stay at home" and loves to figure odd puzzles out, like this..However we'll see how it all shakes out.

I've been in contact with Tanks Inc. They have pics and measurements, they are looking into options after the holidays. If I have to fab brackets and use other options moving forward I can. I plan on spending the $$$ in same areas, just wanna know it's right. The tank repair for me right now is an option just not one that was expected with everything else going on. I'v already learned that my wife and I decided to take a chance on an "expensive" breed of old truck to resto-mod and enjoy. That's the goal, so we wanna do it right, even if it costs more upfront. Thanks for all the insight, and this forum. Eric

Just to clarify, the head mounting surface correct?

JBNeal, Front and rear ends rotted out, plus the bottom has TOO many pinholes to count........ If you don't mind me asking, what was the cost for repairs with "Renu'd"? I'd prefer to keep the original tank, but it's about my abilities, and I gotta keep a budget.......

I sprayed it down for 2 weeks, fab'd a 2x4 puller with ratchet straps and the hammer. Still had no luck. I figure, I'll buy the tool, and share with other members for the price of shipping when it's needed.

So we know there are 2 sizes to the Dodge engine blocks. 23" and 25" what is the determining point? If measured from the head I have a 23", when measured from the oil pan I have a 25"? Which is it???? The block casting # is T334*I954........

Still waiting on engine tools to arrive. Weather hasn't been good enough to finish pulling Xmas decorations off the roof, so I decided to gut the cab interior. Managed to put a few tenths of a mile on the speedometer when I wanted to verify operation. Wifey wasn't too thrilled, OOPS. Regardless, I'm gonna start pulling door guts tomorrow, and setting clamps on the pins for removal. Yes, I'm still fighting with the darn steering wheel, and a puller has been located, just not arrived yet. Yes that's a "54 gas tank that's gonna need replacement too.

Welcome to the forum. Thicker is better, depending on your wiring skills and desire for original colors, there a plenty of universal wiring kits available with fuse box, relays, etc. They also have generic wiring diagrams to assist.

From looking at the pics, it looks like the roof was set down onto the A pillar, then welded, with the drip rail being a binding element put on last somehow and obviously not filling the gap. Is it possible to do the needed rust stop, then re-weld the the 2 roof sections (pinch if needed), put the drip rail back in last? Then possibly run a fine bead of along the inside of the drip rail with a sealer?

Been reading through this and found some great information, but still have a few questions. I got the pan pulled off my block, learned that the dipstick tube threads in so that's one problem solved. Now my question is with the oil pick up, and pick up tube. The tube appears to be threaded into the block? With regards to the oil pick up and getting the screen cleaned out etc. The cover that is on the bottom is what's removed for internal access? Just bend tabs back carefully? Thanks. Eric

You do have some work to do in a few key places. After watching your mind work, and push through challenges I have confidence in you getting done correctly and moving forward. Besides it's been awhile since we've seen any of your elaborate sketches showing your plan of attack. Eric

Welcome to the forum!!! Plenty of information to be found, along with insight. Eric

Had to work a short day today, came home started digging through the tool box and found a steering wheel puller with the correct bolts. The attachment bolt holes on my pulley didn't go all the way through for some reason. Was able to get the pulley off, and then the timing cover. (mental note of the reversed bolt/nut on the bottom by oil pan) Here are a couple pics of the timing set as it sits. Gotta dig into my B4 manual and see what it says about timing chain deflection limits. I also need to find the timing marks on the sprockets, shouldn't be too hard after getting things cleaned up. As things get pulled out, I planned on soaking them in kerosene to break up the burnt oil and grime, guessing minor scrubbing will probably be involved. Anything to beware of with this? Thanks. Eric

Thanks for insight on a puller, honestly for getting it on the road I'll do trailer lights, and down the road I'll go back to an original style. Budget with 4 kids, and 1 income wins.....

So, I love my family. My brother-in-law had the correct 1-11/16 socket to pull the crankshaft nut. What's the best way to pull the pulley? Please advise.

I only have 3 of the original wheels and they are rusted pretty bad. I plan on sticking with a 15" wheel when the time comes, unless wife says use the old ones. LOL.

Had some great weather this weekend, moved the frame outside, brought the cab inside onto a rolling stand. Pulled the engine from the corner and started knocking off the gunk that's been there forever. Got the oil pan pulled and found the inside of engine to be extremely clean. Tear down will start after the valve spring tool arrives. Yes, I know there's some dirt and grime inside the valve train, but still in tear down so it's a clean as it goes. We really think that someone accidentally drove this truck into a mud pit and let it sit before dragging it out. We've found nasty clay mud everywhere on this thing. I still gotta figure out a way to get the stubborn steering wheel off the shaft though.......

Thanks for the offer on a heater addition gents, however we'll stick to no heater here in CO. The snow comes and goes in 24 hours! I can live with that, Wifey agrees too!

Good News on the heater core! Mine didn't come from the factory with a heater, so not something I'm going to have to worry about.

Thanks for the insight! On a RDO today, however it snowed so kids are outta school and it's not the greatest outside to be moving a frame. With already having the primer on the frame done, I'll work on getting a top coat of flat black on it, then pushing it outside so I can get into the engine tear down. Waiting on doing the front brake conversion and rear axle will be beneficial this was way. I won't have to worry about any light surface rust forming on new parts while sitting outside. Fortunately rust is extremely slow forming here in CO. Might bring the cab inside to start assessing the overall repairs needed there while waiting on engine stuff. The engine stand for running will definitely be built so that after it's running, I can start it periodically before it goes back into the frame. No point in making it run then, letting it sit for extended time to have it not start when needed.

Update: I have the correct drill bits and all parts for the Rusty Hope conversion. Kids weekend activities, and holidays have taken over though. I'm look for insight from folks at this point. I'm building the truck for my wife(important one) and I. She really wants to hear the original engine run before dumping money into the rebuild/upgrades. Engine is currently on a stand, but I need to finish tear down, a dip and then rebuild, with a fab'd running stand.......... My questions: 1. Complete the primer/top coat on frame (without completing disc conversion and rear axle swap now) and put outside(under tarp) to get into engine work for a running engine? 2. Stay focused on frame, front brakes, rear axle swap, brake lines, fuel lines, fuel tank, shocks etc then move it outside, and continue to engine work? Open to all suggestions. Thanks, Eric

Brad, Thanks for tank info. Mine was rusted out beyond belief, and foolishly I let the scrap metal guy take it before I got good measurements. Now I'm having to back pedal on the fuel tank situation, but I have to get thru the holidays and kids activities first...... Parts are stacking up, but no time.....uugghh......

I have no worries, you'll get it sealed up (sooner or later). Great find on the windshield though. I know you n I are both in the same issue with our year and specific parts. Unfortunately, I've stalled with the holidays, and kids right now. Such is life though. Keep it up Kev!

I completely understand your choices with the dual pump for a dual carb setup. I was asking what fuel tank you are using? An original or an aftermarket?