55 Fargo

More of an issue at 0f not 32...

In more extreme weather like 0f this might help. Bring the battery in the house to keep warm until starting. Warm the oil pan with a magnetic heater. But just near freezing shouldn't be too hard to start if ignition and battery, fuel system all in good shape...

Adams my New Years goals will be "Mopar" for "Mopar" goals. Now this includes the A833 swap. Of course its for a period correct flathead 6 engine. When, or do you plan to have your projects running and burning gas?

I've edited this post for this reason. This is Adam's thread on his intake and exhaust. Posting about transmissions is in poor taste so apologies for that on my part. For whatever reason Don Coatney was blowing his horn on his T5 Swap, and have no idea why and he should edit it and apologize. Adam wish you the best on this project....

Give timkingsbury a PM he can help you out possibly. I dont currently have any front sump pans and pickups you need....

What will you have on the road this coming year burning gas Plymouthy. As referring to your long term projects not your Sunbeam Tiger or your Flathead powered automatic Plymouth.

Here you go, now this is cold....

On this forum only or are you including your T5 threads over on the hamb Don? Your T5 threads were quite lively on the HAMB I recall... I can " agree to disagree" have a great day......lol

Interesting "war story" do you foresee an intake and carb freeze up with Adam's setup.? Your bush made Nam intake was most certainly not a good design icing or not. I think it will operate just fine and possibly too hot in summer weather. Perhaps Moose can share on this his manifolds might be similar as they are made with pipe.. Your Mustang experience yes when near freezing and moisture ripe for icing and elevation changes. I found old Fords the worse for carb icing...

Hey whatever works is Kool Adam. I have always found "icing" at temps near 32 f and moisture in the air. Cold dry weather not an issue, but who is put cruising at 20 below for the most part. I think you may be dealing with heat issues more than cold issues come hot summer weather, 50 is still cold weather ypur engine most likely will not generate much under hood heat at that ambient temp. Don Coatney is thanking you maybe he can share something on this topic while winter driving his 48 Plymouth or his 47 Dodge, as he is Hoosier State member...

A "cougar" or the Mercury Cougar...........LOL

Is your Dodge coming out or going out, to this event JipJobXX

Maybe where you live Paul, and depending on the temps. Regular "summer rated tires", get rigid at temps below 45f, "Winter tires" or all weather rated tires stay pliable in temps well below 45f. Some states and Canadian provinces allow studded snow tires, we are 1 place that allow them. On icy snow packed roadways studs really can help. Sand bags are a very good weight source, and heck some can be opened if you got stuck and needed something for traction. On my daily driver a 2015 Hemi Ram 4X4 I have Kumho all weather tires, not quite as good as Good YearDuratracs but darn good so far. I would put 300 to 500 lbs in the box of an old truck with decent tires, should be all good.

I do not think this should be an issue Adam, but time will tell. I think those (hot summer days relative for your area), winter mornings near freezing might have an effect with higher humidity and carb icing, but in summer not likely you might even get those carbs good and hot too.......

Yup this is the ticket.

Have no idea on this, Sure but a whole different movie on the OPs question...

Theres enough heat off the exhaust manifold never mind adding some............LOL I do not see a need for this, my set-up is a stock intake made into duals, and my stock exhaust manifold is a tru separated dual exhaust, plenty of heat. So this water fed plate, is supposed to warm up there Fenton Intake, heck by the time the water warms up the exhaust will be hot too. AoK racing is not an advocate of heated intakes. Mine even in the bitter cold is fine with a little choke until it warms up

In this "Locked thread" there are videos of the AoK racing stock, and some others. Please enjoy and comment, possibly this locked thread can be integrated into this thread.

Yah right... nice wish though

Greg, exactly, some of the Engines I am mentioning ( some owned by AoK Racing) are far from Street Machines, as well as the Tractor Pullers, so wicked high RPMs win them races/competitions. Yes I am guessing my 265 build will most likely spin up to 5 grand, am I going to drive it like that, most likely not, but it will have a power band and capability outside of the stock range. Going down the road at 70 mph at 2100 RPM, that would be the lowest Im would spec for, think these engines might be happiest in the 2300-2500 rpm range... In fact with some OD reductions and high rear gearing, the notion of cruising at 60 MPH at 1600-1800 sounds good in theory but try that on a windy day, or going uphill for a few miles, bogging is inevitable.

My Hemi Powered ram spins to 5500 RPM with ease, not that I do that often.

Yah never heard of this outfit but kool. Tractors pull way higher than 4500 rpm. Heck my old 228 with its leaking cylinders and all spins to 4000 rpm. George Asche and Tim Kingsbury know how to make power and RPM to 6000 RPM..

.410 lift is still pretty mild, so yes should idle well at a decent RPM. Moose I agree if the cam is not too aggressive, its when they get a little "hairy" idles need to be higher.

But a 392/426 Chrysler Hemi or a Chrysler 440 6 pack, more in line with my preference in "music".....

More like it wont idle well at said RPM, but it will not sound like a 427 Rat Motor with Bada$$ cam