55 Fargo
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Everything posted by 55 Fargo
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A well built 265 the right cam dual or tri carb intake and headers. This would easily make over 150 hp and rev to 5000 rpm. Torque numbers not sure but 250 to 275 could be had. Heck factory spec was 120 hp and 228 ft lbs torque. The big truck 265s with factory dual carbs and exhaust more like 136 to 150 hp
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Yes I agree but to be real honest this has been beaten to death on this forum and over on the HAMB. These engines do quite well without ZDDP additives and quite frankly live well on bargain oils too. But again the owners money their choice. I do not see the need for any additives in my oils most oils have an additive balance so adding other items can change that. Some will agree and some wont thats life salt or no salt. 1 last thing I do not believe every piece of propaganda that is out there as gospel. I have yet to see a cam get ruined in these engines using normal ordinary engine oils. Fake propoganda all kinds out there by marketing schemes intending to make money...
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Bryan have read it all. So it ain't convincing me 1 ioda. Simply put these low revving low valve spring pressure engines do well without adding ZDDP period. Nir do these engines need Lead additives as they have hardened exhaust valve seats from the factory. But your engine your money your choice...
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Forget the ZDDP this ain't no Stovebolt Chevy 6 or a Ford Flathead V8 and I doubt they need it either. The Motomaster "30" is fine or something like Rotella T 15 W 40, which still includes about 1200 ppm of zinc. Your money so your choice, but I have never used any ZDDP additive in any of the flatheads I have had.
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Again talk with Tim Kingsbury or dpollo. Or call George Asche he rebuilds these transmissions.
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Generally too much bearing clearance from wear reduces oil pressure. BTW what type of oil you running and what viscosity?
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I luv this old boat tail, and powered by a Chrysler flathead 6. I hope to build something like this in retirement....
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Hi Dave, yes often wondered what my 228 would be like rebuilt, and how it would stack up against a stock 265. There is a 228 for sale in Winnipeg, rebuilt at some point supposed to be a good runner 200 buck$. Op you gotta pick it up....
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Pistons no problem, rods, why do you need rods? If the rods need oversize bearings no problem same for the mains. Seriously PM timkingsbury, he can help you with this big time. Fluid coupler, can you let the clutch out and the engine does not stall, and the car is not moving till you hit the gas, thats a fluid coupler like a centrifugal clutch almost...
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I like the Turbo idea, can make a 218 perform like a 318. I have not seen many, there are some guys in Sweden or Norway that have done it, can't see it being too difficult. Even in stock form I have revved these engines to over 4 grand...without blowing them up
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Yes it is not cheap to rebuild an engine, but do the math, with the donor engine and say a A904 trans, all the items to make the swap work, might be the price of a basic rebuild on your engine. Hey but in the end, your car, your money = your way....
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Bryan while the 265 when rebuilt will have some grunt and be in the neighborhood of 125 -130 hp, by just milling the head. The 265 will come alive and rev a lot better with a higher lift cam, add the carbs and headers and a lot more torque and HP. Your advice is good and nothing wrong with doing things in stages, if he keeps the fluid drive coupler, this car will never be neck snapping though....
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Here is my 55 fargo, with a very tried 228 engine, but with a George Asche Tim Kingsbury dual carb intake headers and dual exhaust. I am building a 265 for this truck, which will have a Chrysler A833 trans too
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Yah checked thrashingcows and his photobucket pics are not showing. I should have made some type of video tutorial, but in reality it's quite simple....
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Greg things have changed a lot in 10 years, prices in Canada are often higher too. I wish I could build my 265 for the price you did yours, not these days Im afraid....
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Tims 49 Plymouth, the race car, both highly modified 265s..
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Here is Kevs tri carb turbo Stude flathead6, we won't be prejudiced on the fact it's a Stude as this would work well with a Mopar too...
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PM Tim Kingsbury outta Milton Ontario. He can help you out with a lot of your questions. They build engines intakes headers and grind cams....good luck
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Some pics
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The 265 engine should have lots of power, when in good condition and set up. Add dual or tri carb intake and carbs, split exhaust or headers, and you will see a big difference. Now if this engine is tired and old, and needs a rebuild, then of course it will be down on power. Now with the 3 spd trans, is it mated to a fluid drive clutch? This is a bit of a deal breaker with more modern transmissions, if it's a fluid drive clutch, then you have 2 choices, a 3spd overdrive trans with the long input shaft for the FD clutch or converting to dry clutch. Now with a dry clutch you have some choices, 1 is a Chrysler A833 4 spd overdrive trans, by using a simple adapter plate it's not a real tough swap, there are other options. Your oil pressure is down, should be 55-60 psi cruising and 30-40 psi idling and warm. The 265 is a great engine, and the most powerful with the longest stroke, and in good form should move that car along just fine. On the 3 spd trans, yes you could swap rear gears to say 3.54s, or go to a donor diff, say a Chrysler 8 1/4 with 3.55 gears and modern brakes. As far as a V8 swap, a lot more involved, engine most likely will need to be off center to clear steering box, fabbing and fiddling, a 360 mopar and a 727/904 trans could be nice...I like your car
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I dont know why its not in the archive on this forum. I have documented it and so has Thrashingcows. Its not hard to undertake. I have actually done it so not theorizing about it. Its a good choice for the conversion. Some add a GM hei module too or a new box for the mopar type.
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Yes you can convert this to regular dry clutch. Heres how its done. You need a regular clutch bell housing, clutch and pressure plate assembly. Get this from a Plymouth or Canadian Dodge without fluid drive. The rear clutch housing cross member needs to be moved forward the applicable distance for the donor clutch housing. The clutch linkage is fine except the release bearing rod has to be either shortened or get the donor rod which is shorter from.a Plymouth. The shifter linkage should work fine as it did in my situation without any modifications. The parking brake cable will.be longer and need some attention to work in this situation. If this is a US Chrysler the drive shaft and ujoints will.need some conversion. Canadian ujoint for Plymouth or Chryslers were the same common cross and roller types no ball and trunnions. Not sure if this helps or not.
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T120 i realize from another perspective this might appear funny. But in reality these Thread Terrorists just win when in reality it's a no- win situation. This gets old real quick and wastes time and the site owners bandwidth. By all means enjoy your intermission refreshments from your Snack Bar...
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You really should give George Asche a call. Hopefully he or the AoK Boys can set you right again. Added at 1508 CDT You know what after thinking about this for a while, here is my response and advice to you. You are not going to get any answers, stats, specs or info, never mind this bull$hit, that others want to know now and in the future, if they do, they can ask Tim, and sure he would be accommodating. You made so much trouble with the A833 adapter plate, and would not let it go, in fact did you not get the drift after that thread went in the toilet. Why don't you give it up, you obviously enjoy "grand standing" and you are getting no where on this issue. Highly unlikely Tim is going to ingratiate you with an answer, he owes you and anyone else on here nothing, and believe me he has nothing to prove, but it sure looks like you do???
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I agree not sure how cam profiles are the basis of this thread. Well it needs to be edited by the Mods or locked.
