55 Fargo

Hey all, drove out to Winnipeg Beach on fabulous Lake Winnipeg (10th Largest Lake in the World). The drive is about 20 miles from home, spent some time with the Kids and My Wife, then drove 30 miles to Selkirk Manitoba, to an A&W. The ride was great , about temp 72, engine temp 170, speed 55 mph. I was flagged down by a Gent who owns a 1940 New Yorler, had plenty of compliments on my car, one Old Dude actually called it Beautiful. Here are some pics of the car, and the Lake at Winnipeg Beach......

Here are 2 lower control arms complete withsgafts/bushings, they are Mopar NOS, if anyone nneds them, or a fluid drive Carter Carb, it is NOS also.

Hi Rich, do any of your u-joints look like these. I just picked these up, and there the wrong type for my Canadian built Chrysler. The u-joint on my driveshaft, are regular cups on all 4 that use the outside C clips. These are for American built Chryslers........

If you want a set of Geniune Mopar NOS lower control arms complete with shafts and bushings, I know a Gent nearby that has a pair. Anyone interested can PM me for his contact info......Fred

Kepp up with the rides, and pics, you are totally enjoying this car. Some Guys do not, and worry so much about it all being perfect, and having the the best of restoration, and period correctness. I admire you, this is what this car was meant to do, and was never meant to sit indoors all the time, and never get driven much. Keep up with th pics and anecdotes.........Fred

Excwpt is was actually a 228, Canada made also made a 201,218,228,237,251,265, and maybe othersI am not aware of. All the same 25 inch block, different cranks,pistons,ords, to accomplish the displacement differences. Some engines had larger intake valves too....

Norman, you can either convert to a manual choke. What carb have you got? Is it a 2bbl, what is available to allow for a manual choke conversion.On the Carter B&B carb, it is easy, just use a manual choke carb top, and run a cable, but on your 2 bbl, not sure about that. Can the outfit that makes the headers, not fab a plate and to allow the choke to bolt onto, to allow the scisson electric choke to function. Hope it works out well.........

Michael, don't forget about Roberts,I have bought a number of their rubber parts. I have been satisfied to date, maybe not as good as Steele though. Hey you should call Gary at Roberts, see what he has........

The heat riser you won't have,as this section will be removed with the headers and the auto choke sits on the exhaust manifold. You might as well go dual exhaust outlets for dual exhaust. May have to fab a base, and have that welded to the new headers for the electric Scisson choke to mount on. Or convert to manual choke, may be the only recourse....Fred

Hemmings ran a issue dedicated to low mile survivors. There was a 48 Chrysler Biz Coupe, this guy finds it with 16000 miles, and in decent form, other than brakes,water pump tires, etc, agas tank and rad had to be boiled out. But he finds the original owner, who sated he lived only a 1.5 miles from work, and said they did not go anywhere, no wonder the car only racked up 16000 miles from 1948 to 2009. The car probably wasn't even driven by the end of the 60s. Sure wish that car were mine. Hey Bob, glad your having fun, most people wouldn't even have the insight to connect the 2 mileages, too busy keepin up with the Jones, or making ends meet. Now you, you get to "smell the roses", and your Plym, gets to live to a ripe old age. Crazy as this sounds, I just know the first owner of my 47 Chrysler Coupe, appreciates what I have done to ressurect her, I have no idea who the first owner is, and there probably dead, but they know she has a new lease on life........Fred

I am pulling that weatherstrip very son, and will install some new ones, the paint under there is in good shape, I have had the strip off before......Fred

Hey all, as you Guys know I painted my heap last year, at home, with Synthetic Enamel, gloss hardner, cheap hvlp spraygun. Results were good, paint flaws the fault of the painter, and his inexperience. Today, I painted the door edges, now this should have been done before the paint job last year, I reasoned that I would repaint the doors, and then do the edges properly. Well I am in no mood for removing doors, and panels to re-do the paint, I am limiting my future painting to frames, floors,inner fenders,trailers primer etc, not finish coats, just not good enough for topcoats. What I did was mix some of the same paint I used on the car, reduced with medium speed reducer, add a little gloss hardener, and then proceeded to apply it on the door edges with a small sponge brush. It went on reasonably well, I put on 2 coats with a 4 hour dry time in-between. It looks better than what was there before, but moral of the story, this should have been done correctly before the paint job. Now this is what I call bassackwards.........LOL

I think I wouild be careful with that too, as those places generally use power equipment, and probably are not used to dealing with 60 year old paint. No doubt there would be some good ones out there, but this is something this Guy will need to research. I would try some test areas in a small inconspicuous spot first, and see what happens.

Good find Bob, I see a few ignition switches, and a couple of headilight dimmer switches too.....

I would be careful, not remove to much paint, or by breaking through thin areas. i would use only a mild polish, nothing too abrasive, clean up some of the oxidized old paint,then wax and enjoy. I think I would maybe stay way from a power buffer, and do it by had. You could polish the chrome and stainless too......

Hey Flatie 46, That is a cool car too, bet your proud of that Boy, I would be too. Here's what I did with my old Chrysler, with some bodywork, just the rough work, stripped her down, some to bare steel, some to OEM finish, did somemetal work, some filler, then primered with Canadian Rustoleum rusty metal primer, it is marketed up here under Rustoleum as Tremclad. On the advice of Tim Adams, I reduced the primer with medium speed automotive acrylic enamel reducer, Dupont brand. This was sprayed onto the car, 3 coats, with a flashtime, between coats. It turned out great, drove the car like this for a while, then did all finishing body work ontop of this. I used 2k urethane primer/surfacer over it, no issues, then painted the car,no issues to date. Here is a pic of my car, before, and after primer, very low budget, and very good quality results IMHO...........Fred PS I sprayed this on with a cheap gravity flow HVLP gun, and a 30 gallon Sears compressor, you could also roll it on with small 4 inch sponge rollers if youhad too, and it would be fine, this primer seals much better than lacquer based primer.

Those floors have the typical rot in that area. Floor looks pretty solid though, and rustoleum primer on rusty or cleaned up up metal is an excellent first primer. Love the car, it is decently straight and will be looking good in no time, she looks good now, but will get better as the work progresses.........Fred

Thanx Rob, just thought even a mild wax job, say old fashioned Turtle paste wax, might help the gravel road dust not stick as well to the paint. I am sure by it staying indoors it will look good as far as shine is concerned for years....... Taken 15 minutes ago, my Boy, my car, my field

Hi all, as some of you know I painted my car last year at home in the garage. I got a few nasty runs, some dirt, and some imperfections. I did use Synthetic Enamel, very much like what was used in 1940s, I did however add a hardener. I do not think I am going to worry about the runs, so am not going to wetsand the car, or try to cut off the runs in paint, don't think I will do a good job. Should I use a mild polish, buffer, and then do a wax job? Or should I just continue to wash and drive? This paint job, will eventually be redone, but for now want to get the most out of it, and keep it shiny and in good shape. The shine after 1 year is very good, as the car is in the garage 95% of the time, has not seen any rain or snow to speak of. Since I have more time than money, plan to polish and clean up the chrome and trim, as best I can, on car, at least it can be preserevd until one day, when there is more fatter pockets.......Fred

Personally, I would bead blast or sand blast it, take it apart, paint reassemble and enjoy. The parts are moving, the main rod that the rim goes onto, was welded up, somewhere along the line. You can have your buddy meet me at Clandeboye General Store, on Hwy #9, or it can stay here, till you come and get her, either way is fine by me. I thought I would take the pic, with an old 30s Plym rim........Fred

Here is the tire changer you bought in Wnnipeg, decided to take a pic:D for you. Let me know via PM, how you want to get it to your people in :confused:Matlock....Fred

And to think, I know a Gent nearby, whom I have bought parts for my car. He has 2 T&Cs, 1 47 ragtop with an 8 cyl engine, he bought in 1958, still original with about 50k on it, and a 48 sedan 6 cyl, he restored, he has owned since about 1975. I think his investment has grown a bit over time. His cars are both Catalina Tan, like the one in the video.

Thanx Greg, that may work......

Hey thanx everyone, for the thumbs on my car. I apologize, not trying to stir anything up. Just wanted to give an honest example of a homemade job of a car, that should have been at the crusher, but was rescued years ago by Me

I wonder if some type of disposable filter and housing could be made to mount onto this. I wonder, what this filter would have looked like.............Fred