55 Fargo

Hi Ed, I used terminal connectors for my wires at switch, maybe 8 inches of wire from the steering column. Its this what you mean? Or waht are you asking exactly?..........

Tight is best, or should I say lack of play, 1/8 of an inch movement is the max play beofre it is recommended a king pin replacement. Tighten your wheel bearing nut, then check for play, also look at king pin and see if there is play while moving the wheel in and out. I would check for steering play, by having someone move the steering wheel back and forth, while you are checking for slop in the pitman shaft and tie-rod ends. To check the tie-rods, have fron end off the ground, and try and mover the front wheels outwards, to check for play....

Hey Pat, that would be great. Mondays temps are supposed to be 64 Tuesday 68, so who knows, maybe colder, you never know this far north........

Hey all, noticed I do not have a gasket for my air filter to sit on the carb. Now I do not know how I overlooked this. I cut on to fit from some rubber. By not having this gasket, would it have done anything to the carb. I am also debating whether to cut out my filter mesh, and go with a disposable element. My oil bath filter is in mint shape, so reluctant to butcher it. I do not have a spare, and want to keep my nice breather on the engine anyway.......Fred

Thanx for the replies, on my roof, after painting it, I have applied a few coats of rubberized undercoating, that was a few years ago. I think I will go with the EZ cool, 40 square feet of it only weighs 2 pounds, that should be pleny adequate for my Canadian summer. My car since I have the door panels, carepts, insulation, carept underpad, is quite quiet. It will only get better nce the roof is done. The butyl roof membrane is a rubber compound, and does not smell like much, it certainly is not like asphalt shingles,nor does it smell like such........Fred

Hi Randy, I have read most of the threads, unless I missed that 1. I am wondering if these bootleg concoctions, are as good as the stuff that is sold by automotive suppliers like fatmat,hushmat,dynamat,ez cool etc. The roofing membrane is a rubberized product, it would sound deaden, and the flexi-foil bubble insulation would insulate and sound deaden too. The ez cool product does both, and is not expensive at all, plus has an r 8 value when applied to the roof. Either way,it will be a lot better that what Mopar put up there 60 years ago........Fred

Yes, I have used 3 M Super 77 on it to do a test piece, holds no problem.........

http://www.graceathome.com/pages/roofingprod.htm Hi Tim, here is a link to the roofing ice shield, this is the same as the stuff I have at home, will post a pic of it in a little while. The flexi-foiol, is just the bubble wrap insulation, only an R4 value. The lobucrod, product, ez cool, aluminum sided, polystyrene high density foam. There website is www.lobucrod.com

You got it Buddy, my brakes are pretty good already, very high pedal, stop well, this can only make things better..........

Hi all, want to buy something, to install on the foor of my car, no headliner yet, maybe in fall. I have this peel and stick roof membrane, Ice dam shield, it is butyl rubber mebrane 36 inches wide, with a non skid surface on the up side. Is this stuff gonna work, or am I asking for trouble, was going to laminate the flexi-foil, duct insulation onto it before the headliner. Or should I consider fatmat or lobucrods stuff. Anyway, what might be the best route for the roof, the floors are easier, as weight is not an issue, nor will heat, make it rise..........Fred

Hey all, I am priviledged to say, that my brake adjuster tool arrived safely today. This well made device, was made by Forum Member David Streib. I am very thankful to have received this, and hope to try it out real soon. So thank you very much David.................Fred Some corn ball pics of the new tool owner, and his bondo sled

I am with Tim Adams and 49 Dodge1ton, blow it out with a torch,then clean up threads. Or take it in to a machine shop, where they can drill this out on center somehow, very difficult, once off center. I went through this on an exhaust manifold stud, not fun. it was actually a bolt, so was able to tap to next size, luckily. I know you will find the way Ed, keepin my fingers crossed for you.........Fred

Hey all thanx for the replies and input, I have been working for a few days, so no access to this forum. This engine was actively used until the early 90s,when the company bought another welder, this was parked. Now the engine mostlikely is not cracked, it had antifreeze in it, and oil was full. The older Gent, who runs this operation, figures it should be a good engine still, I have no idea. I am going to buy it, along with it's 6 blade fan and low pressure rad. I figure to use it, I need to install my manifolds, and carb, as well as the dizzy, that would probably take care of that. I am not convinced that the 265 crank and longer stroke is better than the 251 per say. My 251, is stuck, but I am working on that, the block I do not know if it is cracked or not, that is unknown to me, the cyls are in decent shape, with almost no top ridge......Fred

Its called modified with AC:rolleyes:

Okay, so this engine might be the ticket, yes it does have a closed PCV system, the oil filter looks like a by-pass style. As mentioned I do own, have it right at home a 251 from a 48 Chrysler, full flow oil filter, .030 over bore, all else standard. I also own a good running 251 or a 228 from a 1955 Fargo 1/2 ton truck, that engine was used until 5 years ago. I am not trying to be a silly bugger, but trying to decide if I should get this Industrial engine or use my 251, either way they are good engines, plus I have the 55 Fargo engine too. That one is on a chassis with trand and rear end, minus truck body.......Fred

Hi Ralph, thanx for the info. BTW what is the difference between the 265 Chrysler industrial and Chrysler full flow oil 251. Can't just be the stroke, what makes the Industrial engine heavy duty use type..........Thanx Fred

Hi Randy, I would be pulling the head, and checking everything out first. This engine was owned by a heavy equipment serice shop. They take care of there stuff, so hopefully it is a good engine candidate. Now having said this, I have my 251 also, as mentioned has the full flow oil filtration, it has a few stuck vlalves right now, but it may bea good engine too.......Fred

Tim, what I meant, is there anything, different about the engine block itself, cam action, crank size and bolt pattern. Most likely it is going to work fine. The engine is mine, when I can get it and pick it up. Now here is another ?, what is a better engine, my 251 C38S engine, with full flow oil filter, it has been rebuilt once .030 over on bore, and all else standard, it will need to be rebuilt, or at least rings and valve job. Or is the industrial engine a better bet, both valves large size. Not sure what else is different on the industrial engine, comparing toa 251 passenger car engine. I would think this engine has 125 to 140 hp stock.....Fred

It's mine if I want it, the owner is holding it for me pending my decsion, no else has expressed any interest in it at all.It is not advertised for sale. My concernis it has some components that would not allow for a car application. Like some equipment that does not allow for full range of rpm, been reading again...........Fred

I found this 265 Chrysler Industrial engine locally, it was on an old welder, it was used into the 1990s. The Engine is a IND 265, a Canadian model, made in 1968, was used possibly on Massey 5200 Combine before the welder, or maybe it was new to the welder, as this is the exact engine also used on the Masey Combine. Does anyone have any idea, what HP this engine may have, is there any problems using this in a car application? I can get it for a $100, it is not stuck either. Here is a pic...........Fred

Thanx for the thumbs up guys, the rear area was also carpeted..........Fred

Hey all, bought carpet, cut it to fit, took the carpet to a pro, to sew edging, total cost carpet $55.00, edging, heel plate, dimmer switch grommet, $35, total $$90.00. I used on the bare floor, laminate floor high mositure below grade underlay,this stuff is a vapor barrier, is very thin high density type material. Then on top of this 3/8 carpet under lay, then carpet, I had the supplies so that was paid for a long time ago. Now my job is not so great, she is quiet, and looks on a scale of 1 to 10,about a 4 or 5, so not so great, but a nice color fo carpet. I also had an access panel cut and sewn for the MC, I like to keep and eye on the fluid level, this idea was show to me by Bob Toft. This car is a bit of a road beater, so all is an improvement Here are some pics of the job.

They are so used to having an old car, it's not a novelty to them anymore. I drove the Chrysler, my Wfe went ahead with the SUV, and the kids with her. But we all drove around the Beach town in the old car. The SUV has the child seat and of course seat belts, although Hwy#9 traffic flows around 62 to 68 mph,or 100 to 110 kmh, it is 2 lane, and on a warm Sunday, very busy........Fred

Leaks a few drops of oil here and there, have not replaced pinion seal, the diff leaks a tiny bit too. I will keep an eye on things until it can be repaired...........Fred