keithb7

The one on the right in the pic above, is showing reflections in the photo. Here is the same tappet seen below. Removed. I cannot feel any imperfections with a fingernail. I like Plymouthy’s suggestion of a 600 grit polish.

As I tear down and inspect my flathead engine, I am recording the positions of some crucial parts. I found that my tappets and cam look really good.I don't believe they need any machining work. When I remove and re-install the tappets, does their position location matter? Should I number them as I pull them out, to ensure they go back in in the exact same location they came out of. Then the tappet exactly matches up again, with the cam lobe it was wearing with? Tappets spin, so I question, does it matter? Thanks, Keith.

Thanks Dodge. I’ve had more more time to think this thru. Top ring groove is clean because the broken ring has been bouncing around in there. I stacked feeler gauges in the grooves. Top groove is considerably worn wider than second. About .016 or so wider.

I proceeded to remove the valves and camshaft this evening. Pulled out #1 piston too. It easily slid past the top ridge. I found a broken top piston ring. Compression ring. I did not break it upon removal. That explains the rust on the top of the cylinder seen in my pics, earlier in this thread. I’m no expert but the piston looks quite good to me. No carbon build up. I don’t see signs of much wear. However I do need to research and learn where to measure a piston for wear. I attempted to measure #2 compression ring gap. Not much point. The gap seems to be 3/16” or so. Spec is in the thousands. You can see my ring near the bottom of the cylinder in the second pic below. I feel pretty optimistic about what I’m seeing. This engine is not a high mile tired piece of iron. I’m not quite sure I need all the cutting services of a machine shop. A block hot tank boil is definitely happening. One question. When re-using tappets should I record all positions so they go back in the exact same spots? Tappets and cam look very clean and nice!

First photo the seal is in place in the cap. Second photo it is removed and laid on the cap to the left.

Well I guess I’ll try pushing the pistons out with the ridge still there. Carefully, and see what happens. For my own education I was hoping to learn why rust is present on the top of my cylinder walls. It appears to me that the rust extends down lower than the top compression ring. There could be a few broken top rings. I may not be able to prove it. If a piston comes out with a broken ring did it break while passing the cylinder ridge? Or in service? I suppose with decent magnification I could study and look for a ductile or stress type break on a broken ring. Perhaps I can tell if its been flopping around in it’s groove for a long time. Or if I just broke as it was forced out of the block? We shall see.

Thanks for advice Matt. Perhaps I should try removing the caps, cover the con-rod bolts threads. Then push all piston all to TDC. Lift my crank out. Then bring everything out the bottom. Is that possible? If you are interested in following along I am uploading videos of my progress to my You Tube channel. Seek out my name “Keith Barron”. You’ll find my videos.

They lay down flat between the bearing cap and the block. They seal up the end of the seal.

I made good progress today inspecting engine wear. Main and rod bearings all show .00175" to 0.002" bearing clearance. I confirmed that I have some valve sealing issues. The mess I found inside the block was shocking. All the expansion plugs are out. I dug around a bit, excavating crap from as as far back the 50's I figure. I don't have a ridge reamer yet. I was waiting to see how the bottom end looked. I'll proceed to cut the ridge off and pull the pistons out the top. I am interested in what I'll find with the rings. Next projects include valve guide wear measurements. Mainly for my personal development. I have a dozen valve guides here ready to go. They will be all installed at some point. The crank looks great. Bearings have had too much soot going through them for some time. They don't appear worn out, however I will install all new. The block passages are such a mess I figure I might as well take it in to the machinist for chemical boil and cleaning. 3 7/16" bore is very favourable. I am leaning towards that route.

I talk about the 1-side sealed tranny input pinion bearing here. Part number shown fits my '38 Ply. https://youtu.be/m3qarMV0YqU?t=94

Thanks Sidevalve. It can be challenging to remain positive all the time. There is so much crap effecting us wherever we turn somedays. Naw on the Airflow. I took my time thinking it through. I came to the right decision for me. No regrets so far anyway! I’m loving my current winter projects. I’m having fun. I’m engaged. I’m learning. Putting my skills to use. In the end I hope to have a solid usable, reconditioned engine in my ‘38 Plymouth.

I located Volume 1. #1. The first publication. It was August 1976.

A local long-life car lover stopped by my house today. He had something he wanted to go to a good home. He opened his trunk and revealed his 45 year long collection of "Skinned Knuckles" magazines. He wanted me to have them. He personally delivered them to my door. How cool was that? I've got years of technical articles about vintage car systems to read. One of my favourite topics! I really respect the guys I keep meeting in this hobby.

@desoto1939 These photos are just examples. They are not photos of the original poster's car's exhaust system.

Reviving this thread today as I learned something new about points. I located an article in an old "Skinned Knuckles" magazine. Dated Nov 1997. All about dwell and ignition timing. I was intrigued to learn that for every 1 degree that the dwell is adjusted, ignition is also adjusted exactly 1 degree. That's considerable. Many folks are still adjusting their points gap with a feeler gauge. That's not good enough. Sure it'll get you home. A matchbook cover will get you home too. However you don't really know how far out of spec your dwell time is. The fibre rubbing block on the points arm wears as it rides up and down the distributor cam. It's wear affects points opening time and dwell. Additionally points contacts wear down. Gap increases. This also effects ignition timing. Maybe later we are up front at the crank pulley with a timing light trying to twist the distributor. We run out of adjustment. Still we can't seem to get the timing mark lined up as per OEM specification. As the rubbing block wears, the points wear, the ignition timing retards accordingly. All this adds up and compounds. If a car is new to us and we have little confidence in the history of it's maintenance: Maybe we should start with new points? They are cheap. A new condenser. Get a dwell meter. Few people know what they are for any more anyway. Find a used one for good price. Set the dwell to spec. Record dwell with the engine running . Set the valve clearances hot. Set A/F mixture screw with vacuum gauge to assist. Re-set engine idle RPM. New spark plugs and lead wires, rotor and cap sure won't hurt! Replace any rotting points wires including the wire from the coil to the distributor. Ensure the isolation block or washers are in place at the side of the distributor where the points wire enters. Then finally set the timing on the crank pulley with a timing light. You should be left with a well tuned car! (assuming, vacuum and centrifugal advance, carb settings are all working well). As you drive it, the points ramp block wears down. The contact points wear...Little by little we lose engine performance as ignition timing retards. Maybe not enough to notice it until we see that we are burning more fuel. Maybe travelling that hill home slower than we used to. Keep on top those wearing variables. Get a dwell meter! Get to the root of the problem. If I grasp all this correctly it seems to me, just setting the timing with a timing light and twisting the distributor is not the right approach. Start with points, then the dwell time...Then after, take out the timing light.

I can't imagine this would end well. I'd lose my temper on these guys. Simple nuts and bolts here. There is nothing technical about removing a rusted piece of tube from the flange at the exhaust manifold, then routes back to a muffler then out the back of the car. "Looking into it?"... Over a few days? Come on. Really? The shop needs to own up to the screw up. Come clean. Fix it and move on. I'm trying to imagine what they could have possibly screwed up. Broke off a bolt at the pipe to exhaust manifold flange? Tried to weld it to get it out. Cracked the exhaust manifold? Yet how would this scenario make the engine run terrible? Makes me wonder what they may have done to the engine. The Exhaust side is under the carb. Maybe bumped the Air/Mixture screw. Dislocated choke linkage? I am starting sense incompetence....Not a good feeling. There's not much here as shown in the pics.

What drivetrain system does your car have? Dry clutch and manual three speed? Or Fluid drive?

Notice both of my pics above, Mr. Green is in my driveway. It’s never been more that 100 ft past my driveway in snow. If the roads are dry, and the sun comes out in the middle of winter I may go for a brief drive. Where there is no traffic or gravel. I’ve been known to do this on Christmas day or Boxing day. It’s becoming an annual tradition for me. If the weather and road conditions allow. Must be: No ice. No salt. No other chemicals on the road. No moisture on roads. No gravel at high speeds to fling about. Sun should be out. Fair day. Colder temps is good! Keeps the roads dry. The cold dense air gives me a little more oomph up the hills. Like a little extra turbo boost!...Then I head out for a Christmas drive. Gets me out from under Momma’s feet in the kitchen, while she prepares the roast beast for the masses.

Would’ve been enough drama to make a video go viral. Lol. No tranny. No park brake! No gears to hold the car back. Ice-y roads....Would have made great family entertainment! Not. If ya learn to embrace winter snow and ice, you can do anything outside. Look at what the Norse Vikings accomplished!

@Los_Control pay no mind to the snow and ice. Totally normal around here.

Update: I pulled my 226 ci 25” engine today. The bare block shown above was removed from my engine stand. The almost complete, pulled 226 was installed on to the stand. It did better than I expected. I could push on it, shove it round. Everything stayed rigid and firm. I am happy with my stand. I paid $50 Canadian (about $35 US) for it used. It has a certification sticker on it. Claims to be rated for 1,000 lbs. I reminded today how heavy these old flathead motors are. Yowzers!

I hear ya. There are pros and cons to each option. I have tried those temporary shelters before. Canadian winters laugh the challenge. They often end up like a pile of pick-up-sticks . Retention and snow are the biggest factors each winter around here. Headed out now to seek out options...

2x4s are the same here. We still sell and price fruits and vegetables by the pound in the grocery store. $1.9/lb for grade AA apples. I have no idea why. Meat in the deli is priced per 100 grams. $1.99 per 100/g sounds a lot more enticing to buy than $19.99 per kilogram for sliced roast beef. You need a math degree to try and break down a grocery receipt. 2x4's, tarp and sandbags are a PITA. We get too much snow and wind. Then you have all this wood and scrap to deal with when I'm done with it. A decent cover seems quick, easy, no clean up. No dealing with too much snow. Jack it up. Pull the wheels. Cover it. Easy to bush snow off the car when I feel like it. A modern Grand Cherokee cover seems to be a pretty close fit. Maybe I'll try picking something up locally. Try it. Then it's easily returnable versus a custom fitting cover ordered from a web site.

I'll try. I am skeptical that I'll be able to reach anyone that has a clue. These days it seems to me most inquires go to a call centre overseas somewhere.