LazyK

The connection on the prop valve is not a brake light switch. I believe it is used to warn if there is a imbalance/failure in one of the systems

Food for thought and conversation. Is it possible to the electric pump caused the mechanical pump failure? The mechanical pump is designed to suck and puke. You add a electric pump between the mechanical pump and the gas tank and now you are force feeding the mechanical pump. Could this force feeding cause a failure of a check valve in the mechanical pump, could the additional restriction of the electrical pump cause a check valve failure? Even if/when the electric pump is only used intermittent it still is force feeding intermittently Yes I know many members run both with out issue. But with variable of pump manufactures and quality of individual internal components what caused the problem?

Proper vented gas cap?

Possible there is a sintered bronze filter inside the tank.

Normal car guy/gal thing. No need to seek professional help. They would not understand.

Radio??? Is that still a thing.

Little back ground 30 years selling electrical supplies. There was a low voltage electrical lighting control that was popular in the mid sixties sold by GE. Used relays to control. Before I retired parts were still available, I assume they still are. The most common part to fail was the relay. Part number for a single pole relay was RR7. The wiring style with the power to the fixture is called switch leg wiring. It was still legal in 2017 per the national electrical code(NEC). Check with a licensed electrician for current compliance as the code may have changed in 2023. NEC is up dated every three years. It is up to local jurisdiction if/when to adopt the changes. Most jurisdictions have a grace period before enforcement. JBNeal is correct many new dimmers require a neutral connection. If purchasing check the packing it should be marked neutral required or not required. If neutral is required it will not work on a switch leg style system.

I agree. With your +1 occupying that side of the truck you will have better thing to look at, and if the seat is empty your attention will be forward.

I believe the part number is U4015A A google search returned a couple of options

You will need power to terminals 30 and 86. horns to terminal 87. Steering wheel horn switch lead to terminal 85. Make sure the relay is rated to 30 amps minimum. If you want the horns to only operate with the key on you would power terminal 30 from a constant power source(battery) (per Sniper before the amp gauge) and terminal 87 from the acc terminal on the key ignition switch

Horn is a high current load,relay needed.

The 5th? That's torture It's past the 5th. we're (not) patiently waiting

Quick google search "Ball end rope hook" brought up several options here is one from Fastenal https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/0130023&ved=2ahUKEwji7bLQj8eLAxXdOTQIHenjPIMQFnoECDgQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1klnjEslSx01_tBu0r0O38

There is no flange on the axle. The axle is tapered. Just keep whacking the cross bone on the puller.

In a shed in western Nebraska

In general relays and lamps are not polarity sensitive.

Restoration specialties PDF catalog available on line https://www.restorationspecialties.com/

Marc has not been active on the site for over 6 months. Maybe someone else can chime in.

Dimmer required would need to be a 0-10 volt dimmer, not your standard household dimmer. Dimmer needs to be figured into your initial electrical wiring, tough to add it in at a later date. As for the lumen output there should be a switch built in to the fixture to select it. The electronics built in to the fixture will sense the input voltage(120-277)and adjust accordingly.

Nice work

There are after market harnesses to retro fit pre 1972 mopars with mopar electronic ignitions. Includes the 5pin connector, 2 wire distributor connection, and ballast resistor connectors. Classic industries and Year One are two companies that come to mind and cost less than 50 bucks.

Thanks for the update. Nice when members can help.

Chain and gears should always be changed as a set. IMO

There are 13 bolts total.failure to get them all will result in a broken manifold.

Water in the distributor. If you tried to start it while wet, good chance the water formed carbon tracks. Only solution is to replace the cap rotor and condenser.