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Don't know if I would want that stuff in my rare and expensive honeycomb radiator....................

That's the point I failed to make. Several days ago it was in the 80's .... it is cold for a few days here and 40's by Friday, 70's by Sunday. A wise man would have just waited a few days and put the tires on then .... I'm not that man. Like a kid, I just had to see what the freshly painted wheels & tires looked like installed. Yeah agreed, @B1B Kevendoes great work, I have seen it. Since I just want a driver, I'm afraid if I installed a set of Kevin's gauges, Then stop for gas ... people would gather from miles around to admire His gauges ... My 5 minute gas stop would turn into 15 minutes To be honest, I just want to learn to do these things myself. Part of the hobby that I enjoy.

This is the first time in my life I'm in the .001% of anything 🤣 The screw holding my lock in place came out without any issue. I did replace it with an Allen head set screw, not sure if that is better idea, but its done and I'm not changing it

Hard to beat a gantry crane, I built this from some metal at the wrecking yard that was less than 50.00, the upright metal were already on hand as was the chain fall and the trolly....need and use....not as much as one would think but it was a most fun project if nothing else. With nuts bolts paint and couple chunks of metal from the falloff bin at the machine shop, little at home welding...think total outlay less that 100.00 The casters I removed at no cost from a tossed industrial item long ago. Pays to save some items for the future.

Confirmed by supplier. Threads are indeed 1/2-20 and the brass ferrule is needed. Thanks for everyone's inputs.

Dunno if this might help but an old trick when any sort of radiator stop leak wasn't available was to use black pepper, a couple of tablespoons thrown in the radiator, the pepper acted like a plug to prevent water escaping........dunno how long it lasted but might be worth a try..........andyd

I did this with my first conversion to V8 and automatic....running dual exhaust and crossover tube.....single pull using stock handle and cable...rest is home grown. The pulleys for the cables are also ball bearing type to ease in the pull....works great.

Now the question is whether or not you will need the little brass ferrule found in the original tank to get whatever fitting you use to seal tightly. Straight threads usually need a flared fitting for sealing.

I wore out a few NORS pads, Doan brand I believe they were...foot contact was fine, but the lip that slips over the pedal would eventually tear after about 5 years. I can attest that without that extra rubber, the least amount of dew on a boot sole will cause unpredictable results when the operator goes to shift gears and apply the brake, especially if done simultaneously...WHOA NELLY 👀

I just had to do the hood spring dance after removing the hood. The hood sheet metal is attached to a plate with rivets. After 70+ years, the rivets got tired and the plate was separating from the hood sheet metal. I had a buddy weld the plate back on to the sheet metal - at the rivets and along the interior side...on both sides (left and right sides) of the hood. The forum above provides an interesting solution of using nickels in the coil to lengthen the coil, but I needed to stretch the springs 1.25". With nickels being 0.070", I would need 17.8 nickels x 2 (one on each side of the spring so the spring stays straight). While placing the nickels in the coils using a persuader to bend the coil, it was difficult to keep all of the nickels in their spot. The solution was to use a floor jack. Place the bottom loop around the jack's axle and the top loop on the jack's dish. Then crank away until you get the right length (for me it was 13.25")...you want only a little bit of the nickel to be in the coil or else it's be tough to get them out (no, the nickels just don't fly off when you close the hood...some do, but most you have to yank out of there). This really worked out ok for me. Jamie Holbrook