Leaderboard

I'm going to chime in and guess it is some form of Pot Metal that was commonly used to inexpensively cast various (often intricate) parts. If you look up the definition of pot metal, you will see that it is not magnetic and is basically a mix of iron, zinc, copper, lead and other scrap metals.

Agree- pot metal. I had mine powdered coated to match the dash and the coaters confirmed it.

Check out the wall display at a good tire store...there may be an idea there that can be fabricated out of some scrap metal to make a tire hanger, cheaper than a rim and looks OK from 10 feet away

The outside is a normal 1 to 2 roof. The inside is vaulted to leave room for a ceiling fan and lights above a lifted car.

The only suggestion I have is to give this place a call. Back when I first started restoring my B3B I got a lot of parts from them. It helped that they were only an hour away from me at the time and I spent hours scavenging parts They don't like to ship, but there are alternatives if you're creative enough. Watts Auto Salvage Wymore Nebraska (402) 645-8066 https://www.theoldcarguys.com/salvage-yards/listings/watts-salvage/ Good luck in your search.

Start of my running boards....and test panel for the beads and (today) hammer formed edge.

I also had an off brand heater in my truck with a bad core and searched a list on oreilly auto parts website, found a replacement and made it work. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/air-conditioning---heating/heater-core/b8e4def0b5a5?q=heater+cores Also sourced a new fan motor for it.

For those of you who are OCD clock watchers... A holder for your pocket watch.

So I have been playing a little bit and getting a whole lot of nothing done. We all know the fenders were, are and will be rough .... they will be solid enough to hold some paint. Hope to get primer on them in the next couple days .... see how smooth they become before paint Have been playing with the wheel some, still some more sanding but almost ready for paint. I have been spending most of my time getting it to run proper after the electronic ignition conversion. They say that with the HEI module you can gap the plugs to .045 and gain a little HP The engine had a terrible idle and been fighting with timing and tuning for the past couple days. Today I ran another compression test on it and it honestly is worse then what it was a year ago .... sitting is hard on these engines. .... 125, 75, 100, 100,95, 100 .... No idea where 125 comes from, was always 110 ... the 75 is down from 95 and the rest were between 100-110 .... so the rings are sticky and not sealing like they should. I installed another set of plugs and set the gap at .035 instead of .045 .... huge improvement on the idle. My engine does not like the wide gap, no matter what they say about HEI. Been trying to use the vacuum gauge to set the timing .... seems it is about 15 at idle .... book says it should be 18 ... I dunno. I made a short video of it running, it starts so fast it is hard to get the bar off of the starter in time. It idles great and vacuum is a steady 15, shows 18 in video but give it a minute and will go down. It accelerates fine and I could rent it out for mosquito control .... Dang sticky rings are not sealing I can at least put it on the road and drive it the way it is .... if it does not quit smoking so much, will need to open it up.

I'd like to get one of those for the pocket watches I have. Joe Lee

Does anyone remake the door garnish inserts to suit a 1940 Chrysler? Mine are missing on the coupe and I was considering looking into getting something 3D printed?

I made my own non warping water proof headliners...and other cab panels.... The red one is 25 years old ...the green about 5 years old.... They snap in like factory.