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I'd like to get one of those for the pocket watches I have. Joe Lee

Back in the 1980s ( a lifetime ago ) I was a dealer Saab mechanic and off road racer. Finding a lube that could keep a transmission in those old cars was a challenge. Even the factory was on it. I won't go into the evolution ( again ) of how we hit on lower viscosity oil and Redline products in particular. I have three vehicles that are coming up on a transmission oil change, two automatics and a 1949 Plymouth Overdrive. So I thought I'd start the selection process before need. The first is a 2013 M-B GLK 250 which is a 7 speed automatic which has a change interval of 70,000 miles. I didn't make it that far because it started slipping in high gear at about 60,000 miles. When I read the procedure it sounded more like an engineering project than maintenance. There's no dip stick/fill tube. You have to use a device to pump the fluid in from the bottom, then run the engine to warm up the transmission which you have to check with an inferred thermometer. Once it warms up the temperature determines the level. The torque converter has a drain plug but nobody drains it so the car owner only gets 50,000 miles till the transmission slips again. The second time I bought the equipment and did the change myself. It's near the change interval and no slipping. The Mercedes spec is designated as M-B NAG-2. A check of the Redline products indicates D6 ATF meets that spec. The second is a 2008 Ford F 250 Diesel. It is a whole lot simpler than the Benz but it requires Mercon LV. The Redline D6 ATF meets that spec too! Now we are getting somewhere! I like the idea of using one lube in as many vehicles as I can. Makes it worthwhile to use the better stuff. The Plymouth used to use GL-1 lube which surprisingly is still available. Over the years I have learned that if you want to clean the inside of a manual transmission before you rebuild it you can drain and refill it with cheap ATF. The inside will be clean as a clock! A quick read of the Redline D6 ATF spec sheet tells you it can be used in manual transmissions replacing all but GL5. The main issue with the Overdrive is the Sprag Clutch. Extreme Pressure ( EP ) lubes can cause them to slip and so that is why GL1 used to be spec'd. Automatic Transmissions use planetary gear sets and Sprag Clutches so we know ATF is compatible. Red Line MTF is plenty good for a regular 3 speed transmission and is a little cheaper. Plymouth transmissions are well designed and don't require crazy expensive lube oil. However if you put the money out for an Overdrive you might want to feed it the best you can get. My inventory of transmission lube just got much simpler.

For those of you who are OCD clock watchers... A holder for your pocket watch.

Well, we all made another one...

I went to sleep early. Just another say in my life.

You would be better off going with this headlamp setup and putting 6 H4 bulbs in it https://www.amazon.com/OCTANE-LIGHTING-Halogen-Headlight-Headlamp/dp/B00GNTZ9SA

while the ad is marked DOT certified I am going out on a limb and saying certified illegal.....lol the lenses are no marked as such.....these fly by night sellers will do or say anything for a sale..... They marked H4 and still not DOT on the lens....the H4 lenses are NOT designed for LED bulbs.....I think you would be wasting your money and be a nuisance to you or others on the highway.

If'n ya loosened the bolts on those L-brackets and rabbit the planks 1/16", could the planks be knocked into place? The bed sheet metal rests on those outer planks so I'd not want to remove too much material...I kinda figured them angle strips could flex a little, maybe even the sill plate a tad, and with that tight fit of plank between sill and angle strip, the L-bracket could be tightened back to complete that part of assembly.

You might try after getting the correct measurements for the pieces you need then try contacting smaller suppliers who might have a stash of various trim parts they don’t really know what they are for and see if they have anything close. I located a guy who had inherited an enormous supply of parts for all kinds of vehicles who found me two rear spears that although they might not be Plymouth specific were close enough to suit me. And although I don’t remember his name there might be some out there. And I found mounting brackets at Fat Fender parts.

Ok,little update on the grease fitting. We welded a nut to the remnants of the fitting. In general that worked out well. Except that the fitting still didn't want to come out. Neither with a grip vice, nor after 15 min. of wiggling to loosen it up. Eventually the remnants of the fitting broke off. So I did end up taking out the bushing and pressing the fitting out. Btw, taking the lwr control arm bushing out with the car on it's wheels is not the best thing. The arm bar is under tension. So better to raise the front of the car till the wheels are off the ground. Now I have to order some new fittings. Guess I'll order with and without thread and see what works best. It should have a short shank, cause the bar goes in the bushing almost till the end. Dennis

If you're on an Android device, on the main dropdown menu at the upper right, go to the STORE, tap Store, and look for the Forum Donations option, then choose the amount to donate @P15-D24 maybe a link to the forum donations page can be displayed whenever ya announce someone who has made a donation? Ya know, to keep the ball rolling 😁

Today was somewhat of a milestone day. I installed the parking lights and got them connected, and they actually work More importantly, the task that I had been dreading for a while was assembling and installing the hood pieces. Fortunately I have a small gantry crane with an electric hoist that actually made the job somewhat anticlimactic. I think from when I first started to slide the three pieces together to where the job was done totaled about 30 minutes or so. What took the most time was figuring out which way the hood supports were supposed to be installed. I need to know which side the hood support arm goes. Is it in front of or behind the hood frame? It's getting close to the point where I need to register and insure the truck so I can drive it....legally that is