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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/17/2024 in all areas

  1. I will look into both Restoration Specialties, I already have a catalog but did not see anything as big as the stuff that came off my car. Then MikeCo. Thank all of you for your input. Frank
    1 point
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  3. For 1933 and I don’t think 1934 is different the automatic clutch/freewheeling knob on the dash has three positions: All the way out everything is locked out. Half way in, only freewheeling is enabled. All the way in, both freewheeling and automatic clutch are enabled. Freewheeling is built into the back of the transmission, a sliding dog clutch actuated by a lever on the side of the transmission locks and unlocks the unit. Putting the transmission in reverse also locks the freewheeling. Automatic clutch is separate vacuum operated device mounted beside the engine with a couple of control linkages. One is a cable/stiff wire from the freewheeling lever on the side of the transmission that enables/disables it. The other is a rod connected to the throttle linkage. It is connected to the clutch release levers just the same as the clutch pedal. The concept is that when you take your foot off the accelerator it will disengage the clutch. Basically, the freewheeling disconnects the transmission from the drive shaft. Automatic clutch disconnects the transmission from the engine. Anyway, if the automatic clutch is enabled you never need to use the clutch pedal at all. Just take your foot off the gas, move the shift lever, then put your foot back on the gas. Since freewheeling is enabled when automatic clutch is enabled with your foot off the accelerator the transmission is disconnected at both the input and output and can be easily shifted up or down. If the automatic clutch is disabled but freewheeling is enabled you need to use the clutch for starting and when coming to a stop. But you can shift between gears relatively quietly once moving by simply removing your foot from the accelerator. In this case, the transmission is only disconnected from the drive shaft only but if you slow the engine down and thus the gears in the transmission too, you can usually get them to mesh with out noise. The automatic clutch units were troublesome and since there was no filter on the air coming into them the pot metal vacuum control spool valve wore out. They also take a fair amount of space under hood. The net result is that almost all of them were removed and thrown out fairly early in the vehicle’s life. The freewheeling device was pretty robust and did not give much trouble. Other than being scary as heck in hilly terrain and generally being considered unsafe. Usually the fix was to wire the control lever on the side of the transmission to the locked out position. But apparently some mechanics opened up the transmission and welded the freewheeling units.
    1 point
  4. Check out Mark's video series. His is a '41, but it might help you. 1941 Plymouth Resto, #13
    1 point
  5. Here is some info taken from my speedometer cable catalog. This was taken from my AC speedometer catalog. Hope it helps. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  6. Hey Steve, Is your car Left hand drive or RHD? Next, I would try to temp fit the cable from the box to your 37 Just the cable housing. The inner cable should pull out. Does it screw on at both ends? Does it kink or bind? Is it to short? If the fit is good, measure the length of the cable. There are speedo cable replacements that are just the inner cable. This link is just to give you an idea of what your looking for, not an exact match for your car. https://www.ebay.com/itm/315921496791?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D278005%2C277954%2C277961%26meid%3Df849996987dd46f98e3fb095222d0baa%26pid%3D101949%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D315921496791%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2WithMLRPbooster_BP%26brand%3DDorman%2FHelp&_trksid=p4375194.c101949.m162918&_trkparms=parentrq%3Acb6307271930a47d696585c5fffff782|pageci%3Adfd72357-bb0a-11ef-aec0-725184b148cd|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage Sorry I don't know how to make the short link. If the length is good you can order one of these and use it. As far as lube YES!! I use white lithium grease. Just spray some into the cable housing and spray the length of the inner cable. As you insert into the housing it will spread the lube. My general understanding of speedo cables is that most period cable housings from that era as long as it is from the Chrysler Corp will fit your speedo and tranny connections. The only difference is the length of the cable. You can't go to short but a little long won't hurt. Hope this helps and gives you some ideas. Joe Lee
    1 point
  7. Went to a local swap meet, in mid 40 degree mist and rain. Normally lots of buyers and sellers, but the weather really thinned it out this year. Stopped by the license plate man, did some horse-trading on a nice set of ‘54 car plates and about 7 pairs of nice, newer plates. Bargained my way into a really nice set of ‘51 farm truck plates. Now, all I have to do is get the truck to look and run at least as good as the plates look.
    1 point
  8. the spacious interior of a Tucker
    1 point
  9. the skeptical crowd observing a helicopter engine being shoved up into a Tucker
    1 point
  10. corner light pockets ready!
    1 point
  11. Sadly I said goodbye to my shop manager Puma. She was with me almost 100% of this build. RIP Pumers
    0 points
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