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My dad did our vacation travel mostly at night, when the traffic was very light and there was no sun flickering through a row of roadside trees. (But no gas stations were open.) Once, he did run out of gas, but within walking distance of a gas station. We had an enameled steel potty or two in the car, for small children's imminent needs. My dad took one to the station and returned with it filled with gas, enough to get the car to the station. Luckily, the gas pumps were still turned on, so he filled up the car. He slipped the $1.40 under the door and drove off into the night.

I removed many a broken EZ Out over the years. Only fair since I broke them. In fact, my last go around was on the spare 230's exhaust studs. My son was on hand for that and he got to see how I get them out. I use a punch and a big hammer to beat them into submission. EZ Outs are fairly brittle, that's why they break so easy. You can break them up by beating on them and fish the chunks out. I still haven't gotten those studs out, now I am going to have to buy a welder, learned to weld and see if that does the trick. Or just hand it off to the machine shop to remove when the block gets machined.

Out for a nice cruise this evening. Looked at the gas gauge, 1/2 tank. Good to go. Felt like it should be time to fuel up, but I like to run down to 1/4 before topping off. About 25 miles from home she sputtered and lurched. I was on a small town main street at about 15 mph. I pulled the choke, turned on the electric fuel pump and she re-fired and got me to the top of a small rise where I then coasted to a safe spot near a Dollar General store. I pulled the air cleaner and the glass bowl on the carb was all but empty. I turned the key on to restart the electric pump and got a small shot of fuel. Started it and it ran a few seconds and quit. Gauge still showed 1/2 tank. I took the fuel cap off, shook the car and listened, nothing. I walked into the DG store and asked if they had gas cans, he said he didn't think so but they would be in row 11 if they did. They did have one 2 gallon can. I bought it and the cashier asked if I had a problem, so I told him what was happening and that I didn't believe the gauge. He went on a rant about these new cars and how complex they are. I told him it was a 1941 and he kept apologizing for his rant. The guy behind me in line offered a ride to the gas station and back, but I declined as it was only a block. They both walked out to get a look at the car though. I brought two gallons of gas back, was offered yet another ride on my way back, and put it in. Ran the electric pump for a few seconds and fired it right up. Drove to the gas station and put another 3 gallons in to get home. Still reads 1/2 full. I swear it ran better with the air cleaner off on the way home. Maybe just the sound, but it felt quicker to respond to gas pedal inputs. Bottom line, trust your instincts, I felt it should need gas, but I went with the gauge. Next thing, pull the sender and test it. My guess is that it's stuck. Might try smacking it before I pull it. But even if that frees it a removal and inspection is in order.

The generator is in and working just fine. It no longer gets hot and is charging nicely however it still sends the volt meter crazy. There must be a field set up somewhere that is causing the problem.

First of all, every state is different. .... I also live in Texas. My 1949 Dodge truck I bought from a guy who bought the truck from a estate sale. It came with a free and clear TX title ..... The deceased owner who died 20 years ago never signed it. He was the 2nd owner and that title was presented in the 1960's. The car flipper that bought it and sold to me .... he signed the title for me. Nobody ever questioned the signature and there was never a past signature on file after all these years to compare it to. It was a very pleasant trip to get the title changed over into my name .... The lady would not let me keep the original title for my records .... she happily made me a copy of it to put in my records. Another time I bought a 1994 Dodge Dakota truck from a friend who bought it from a estate sale with no title. The heirs claimed there was a title for it but would have to return in 2 weeks to pick it up. ..... My friend being lazy never went back to get it. This time I had to go to my insurance company and pay a $300 fee for a bonded title .... then take that to the tax office and have a new title issued. That was painless also, except for the $300 for the insurance .... I got over it. Texas is typically a easy state to get along with .... it comes with clean air and clean living ..... If you see something different .... wheeelll ... shrugs shoulders.

The last time I registered a vehicle that had not been registered in awhile and there was a change in ownership due to liquidation of an estate, I was ping-ponged between TXDOT (now TXDMV) and my county registrar, and kept getting different instructions on paperwork requirements...what a waste of time...at one point, had a DPS detective meet me on the side of I-35 outside of Waco to do as I was told, and even he gave me a cryptic statement about the state does not put any resources into antique vehicles because there was no $$$ in it after he signed an affidavit that ended up not being filed...eventually, after umpteen trips between Belton and Waco, I had a nice older gal at the county look around to make sure the coast was clear, then told me that all she needed to see was the signature on the back of the title, and told me that the govt does not have the resources to verify signatures, but was mainly interested in assessing taxes to the new owner ***WINK*** Confused, I started to ask "but what if the title owner is decea--" NOPE she interrupted, reiterating that she only needed to see the signature on the back...hmmm...So I left the office to "obtain the proper signature", came back 5 minutes later, handed her the cash for the fees, and was out the door with all of the proper paperwork filed

Remove drive line. Remove transmission. Remove pressure plate and clutch. Remove flywheel. Remove oil pain. Remove crank rear main cap. Replace rear seal. Clean all. Reassemble all with all new seals, gaskets and fluids. Or you can skip some steps and then do it all again next winter. Lol.

The last photo shows the mad scientist. No, wait! it's Ulu.

I must tie the new frame rails to the old VW pan and body mounts. Here is my frame joint Mockup & frame connection bits. The orange bit is from heavy tube. I removed the bracket and split the tube. One is a bit long. They will get trimmed past the hole, after welding. I have some heavy stamped side plates to hold that tube. The part labeled 1/4” plate has to bolt to this body mount hole. This is all still upside down, while some of those photographs have been flipped over.