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Some of you may have seen my thread on my sticking throttle on the original ball and ball carburetor on my 38 plymouth. I had rebuilt that carburetor so many times over the last 25 years I don't even know and I was tired of the strip screws and gas and vacuum leaks. So I did a little research online and found that Daytona parts company in New Smyrna Beach Florida sells a UN2 Universal single barrel carburetor that is supposed to be a direct Bolt on. I figured since I lived an hour away I drive up there and see the carburetor in person. I'm glad I did, I spent 45 minutes with the owner Ron and he gave me a lot of good advice on an electric fuel pump if I choose to add one and basic setup of the carburetor to make it quick and easy. I handed the man $300 cash and headed home. I didn't have much time but I wanted to see if the carburetor fit. I already had the old one off because I brought it with me and I dropped the new one on and following Ron's advice I literally had the carburetor installed and the engine running and idling beautiful in 10 or 15 minutes. I hooked up my vacuum gauge and adjusted the idle mixture until I had 50 psi and the car was idling smoother than I can ever remember. I had to make a quick adjustment to the adjustable throttle on the carburetor and then the linkage bolted right up. My choke cable fit perfect and my stock air cleaner also fit perfect. I have not driven the car yet but letting it idle and revving it up in neutral it already seems to run excellent. I'll update once I get a chance to drive the car but so far I am extremely happy with this carburetor and I'm really looking forward to not dealing with that old one again. I'm going to try to attach a few pictures of side by sides with the old carb and with the new one installed.

I went out and hooked the vacuum gauge up again and made a small timing adjustment and a tiny adjustment to the idle mixture and got it up to 21". I may take it out for a drive later and make sure it doesn't detonate. I can tell it sure does idle beautiful and it's very smooth and I'm not getting all that stinky exhaust that I used to get from the old carburetor.👍

I have the dual cast iron headers on my truck with a Thickstun intake, but I chose to forgo the heat plate. I don't use it in very cold weather and have not had an issue thus far. So, I can't help with the install other than to say it should be a bolt on plate with coolant hoses running to it from perhaps the heater bypass connection on the head to the water pump bypass connection on the top of the pump.

Thanks Ivan. I'm so old school I had to look up "millennials" for a proper time period. I still find the use of actual words so much easier to understand and better at conveying thoughts and ideas than a letter or two. My personal opinion is it's a shame we've become lazy in our speech and language skills and losing our ability to articulate effectively. I'll plead ignorant now and step down off the soapbox. Millennials do know what a "soapbox" is, I assume.

I am going to think the TS is thread starter

That 51-53 wiper motor is basically a 1949-52 Dodge,DeSoto and Chrysler wiper motor. The truck wiper motor requires a different mounting bracket and links. The electric wiper motors on B1/2 trucks same situation but use a 1946-48 DeSoto and Chrysler wiper motor mounted with a truck bracket and truck only linkages.

The TS is from Florida, we use the same US scale in Florida 😅 I suspect that either the gauge is not working properly, or it has multiple units on it, and something was confused with something else.

Make sure you lube it.

punching holes in the firewall and building running board mounts....and modifying acc pedals

New motor mounts in! The previous owner or garage had installed the bolts in from the bottom, with the nuts on the top. Pro tip: it's very hard to install new mounts this way. It's much easier if you just bite the bullet and remove the floor pan so as to have access to the top of the clutch housing so you can get everything back into alignment. Old upper mounts were oil-soaked and gooshy, and one of the spacers was broken at the weld joint. Next up: replace speedometer cable with a NOS one I found in the pile of parts. I apparently bought it in 2005 for $40 and it is in great shape compared to the old one coming off. Replace parking brake cable -- old one has a broken strand that not only catches when you set and release the brake, but also catches me in the scalp whenever I shimmy under the car. Replaced pinion seal on the differential, and the transmission output seal. Parts are going back on the car. Fluid drive received back from rebuild. Now need to actually buy the magic fluid. And I think I need copper sealing washers for the fill plugs.

That's the company name 😁

Current thread with a good report on the Daytona carb: https://p15-d24.com/topic/61881-daytona-parts-co-un2-carburetor/

Babies. Try adjusting valves when you're 82. The things I have done, when I was so young. Maybe that's why feel so old.

Just took the car for a drive and got it up to operating temperature and it ran beautiful. It accelerates better and it runs smoother. Full throttle is definitely more powerful now. I wish I bought this carburetor years ago. I would definitely recommend it if you have a worn out carburetor.