Leaderboard

So meet Big Ben. That's what the former owner called him so I will continue the name. 1952 B3-GA. while my 1953 B4GA is still a project it's gonna take me a good while to sort out the rust. This 1952 is from Idaho and doesn't have a bit of rust. I'm tickled with it. Engine is a industrial Chrysler 251 clearly a replacement but the former owner did a rebuild . It seems to run well. This will also be a fun project as there are a few things to sort out, but I can drive and enjoy it in the meantime.

Hey, you old fart! What's wrong with living in the Smokey's?

I tried to track down as much as possible to see what has been offered up on the subject of adjusting the valves on the flathead 6. Setting aside all the suggestions for solo numbers, hot or cold, stopped or running, gloves or salve, I came up with the following, FOR THOSE READING THIS THREAD, USE THE RECOMMENDED GAP FOR YOUR CAR'S YEAR THE PROCESS IS CORRECT AND ACCURATE THIS IS A NEW IMPROVED IMAGE

I finally thought it was high time to get my bumpers out of the weather and starting cleaning them up. I cleaned the bumpers and then started the three step POR 15 method of fixing the inside bumper rust. That area is not chromed, so it is always rusty back there. First, I got my hand drill and a wire wheel and knocked the loose active rust off. Then, I used Marine Clean to clean the area. After washing the Marine Clean off, I used Metal Prep, which acts as a rust neutralizer and a pre primer. Then I applied the POR 15 gloss black. After two hours, I applied a second coat. On the first bumper I did, the rear, I forgot to put masking tape over the bolt holes. As a result, paint ran through the hole and ran on the chrome side of the bumper. Bummer! This paint is so tough, you can't take it off, even after just 30 minutes. You are supposed to top coat it if it will get any sunlight. I don't think the inside of the bumper gets much sunlight, but I could paint it will Rustoleum silver if necessary. I even did the same process on the insides of my bumper brackets. I'm thinking of also doing the insides of the doors and any other hidden place that might rust. I think the chrome side of my bumpers are good enough to clean up just with using some chrome polish and steel wool 0000 fine on them. In fact, the rear bumper was purchased 40 years NOS for about $75. I was covered with hardened cosmolene. I had to use paint stipper and spatulas to get it off. I have two front bumpers and three rear bumpers, so I chose the best of each for my restoration. I wonder what the going price is today for getting a pair of bumpers rechromed?

Many thanks for that Bob

Not to confuse things, but I just cold-set my valves according to my "1946-1954 Plymouth Service Manual" and it says Cold - intake .010, exhaust .013 Hot - intake .010, exhaust .010

The issue I mention is that while when a piece, say a bumper gets chromed, its dipped in the solution to remove rust, scale, paint etc then the bare steel bumper is polished to end up with a perfectly smooth finish that is then, copper(hopefully)/nickel/chromed however unless the back is polished or at least smoothed then the rough back side while it will take the plating process will still be "rough" and offer water a place to sit and eventually start to etch into the plating then the base metal......POR15 would be as good a coating as you could find........but something is needed............andyd

12 years ago I had the front bumper of my Dodge plated. When I got i back I decided to paint the backkside of the bumper with Por 15. No problem since then.

I've seen those two step valve adjustments on various other engines and repair guides, have tried them and found them not as accurate as setting each cylinder individually on TDC compression. I do an initial cold and follow up with a hot adjust. When you're getting paid for it, it has to be right.

If you have gas dripping there odds are the float isn't doing it's job. Bet if you took the air cleaner off you would see gas inside the carb throat too. Time for a good cleaning and rebuild of your carb.

I did the exact same thing on the interior bumpers on my 1980 Volare. The factory left it partially painted in primer and partly bare steel. The fact that it had never spent much time on the road kept it from being really bad. I did not paint over the POR-15 as it rarely gets bright direct sun. That was 10-12 years ago and no rust ever shown up.

Here is another option: https://youtu.be/8G3MJGuKIQ8 Pull the wheel and inner fender. Pull the valve covers. Let the engine come to temp and adjust while engine is running.

Everything I have leaks and drips, cars too! I'm on the TN side in the hills. My folks are in your side.