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You can avoid the cost of electric wiper conversion kits and still have electric wipers....get a rear wiper motor from an s-10 blazer....it is a back and forth not a circle motor...the sweep is close to what you need...a few pieces from the hardware store and some creative bracketry and you're all set ...12 v of course ...about $20 will do it..

I started out the show season in June by attending The Race of Gentlemen (TROG) in NJ wearing my The Gathering of the Faithful tee shirt, and yesterday I ended my show season at The Gathering of the Faithful wearing my TROG tee shirt! The Gathering draws vintage race cars and "traditional" (not "rat") rods and customs. It has been organized for nearly twenty years here in south east Massachusetts by a group of people committed to vintage speed. While there was rain in the forecast, there was still a good turn out. They lined the flatheads up along a stone wall (including my P12 and a couple other Plymouths pictured here). While we've never met, I do believe that's Member Moose's '54 Belvedere, and the P15 is a real road warrior, having made the trip out to the Syracuse Nationals a few times. In keeping with my interests, everything pictured below is MoPar powered, with the nice '34 Dodge sedan having a Mercedes Benz mill! (it was all in the family - once!). Enjoy the pics!

Thank you Mack & Tom, I sure do appreciate the reply's back. I have heard many times here on the forum that I overthink things - which probably limits the amount of replys / help I receive back from folks. not complaining about that, I understand completely,..they are probably 100% correct...all I can say is it's not an attempt on my part to try and impress anyone or outdo anyone, it's just the way God made me I suppose...in my previous occupations, it always was a plus for me and allowed for a successful boss/employee relationship, however that doesn't seem to be so much the case here on the forum,....I do want to stress however, that without the forum, and without all the help I have had from it's members over the last few years, I would not be where I am today with this project....the knowledge here is superb..I raised 5 boys, did pretty much all the wrenching on my vehicles and their's when they were still home,..but working on 70's and 80's and 90's stuff is quite a bit different than this old 40's... Tom, I will definitely check out the S10 wiper motor recommendation...that's about as helpful a reply back as anyone could have provided...many thanks.. Steve.

Ah, I had you confused with another person who's also working on vacuum wipers. He's running a small block Chevy. I was lucky and didn't have to disassemble my wiper motor. I'd probably cut out a piece of thin leather or inner tube and try that. Otherwise wiperman.com may be your best bet.

I swapped out the entire carrier section from a Plymouth to my '47 dodge rear end. Axles fit just fine, and was an easy 1 for 1 replacement.

There's some kind of grommet in the arms but I can't remember if they're rubber, plastic, or oilite. The arms on yours look correct to me. I'm not sure what shaft you're saying isn't working correctly. Also keep in mind that these motors don't turn in a circle like a more modern unit. They wag back and forth if that makes sense. My wiper motor worked but wouldn't make it through a complete cycle. I disconnected the arms from the motor and left them under the dash when I took the motor out, poured some lube through the vacuum port and worked the actuator back and forth until it seemed like it had freed up somewhat. Then I hooked the motor up to vacuum to test it before re-installing it. I managed to lose one of the jesus clips and replaced it with a clip from my collection. Lubing solved my problem and hopefully will solve yours, too. Vacuum wipers aren't really all that bad. If I had a V8 like yours I might have to worry about not having wipers when passing someone but with a stock 218 that won't happen very often.

Just a quick update on the front end. Progress is slow ... there was so much to clean. But, I finally got it all cleaned up and painted. The the parts I took off/replacements waiting to go on are all painted too. Scarebird conversion is here as well as the new ECI master and pedal bracket. I'll keep everyone posted, with pics of course, of the re-assembly and disk brakes.

You should be able to just cut the tube that the tie rods screw into, shouldn't have to touch the tie rods themselves. I cut the right hand threaded side one, and I might have run a few more threads in it...just be careful when you disassemble to mark which side is which and the passenger side is left hand thread

Electrical friction tape works great for such applications, and it’s very cheap!!!

I have done a truck 4.1 to car 3.54 swap in my 53 truck. The car axles are shorter than the truck axles. We changed the side gears as Merle suggested. I have another 3.54 diff center swap yet to do for my 52 truck.

I am doing the same swap, I feel it will work, therefor it shall!

My interchange vintage manual says that either the whole 3rd. member carrier OR the ring and pinion will fit. I would not look for ant other mopar 3.73 to to readily avail. in models before 1950 as they would have benn optional gear ratios for almost all before that. Also do Not look at chrylers or desotos unless they have a 6 cyl. motor, 8 passenger,limos or rears from the wagon supposedly do not fit. Never have i personally done the car to truck rear gear swap but sold several cars gear sets to people to do this. One person who bought a 3.73 years ago did let me know that it did fit ok. Hope that gives some info for you, DJ

I believe some of the differential carriers are different, so the 3.73 ring gear may not fit onto the carrier from a 4.10 gear set. If you have the entire 3.73 differential assembly it would fit your axle. The only difference may be the axle shaft and side gears.

A home lift is a great asset......they are very much affordable these days and something that I recommend if you do much work on cars. I use mine not only for ease of access for mainenace actions I also do 90% of my body welding with the car on my lift. Even welding interior as you can raise it just enough to lean in and weld. Body work is a much easier also for the side and lower extremeities. Overall one of the better shop aids one can buy for themselves.

I finally got the distributor and timing where I think it should be. I reset point gap .020. Reset plug gap .035 ( resistor) type plugs I have. Damper dead nuts TDC. Rotor pointing at 7 o'clock positioned. Dialed in distributor with the neon tester. Car fires up. So I put my timing light on it just for the know. It's running and timing is right on TDC and maybe 1 or 2 degrees BTDC. But vacuum is only around 11 inches which isn't good. So now I'm gonna remove the carb and double check my rebuild and make sure I have the correct gaskets. I'm thinking now more along the lines of vacuum leak. ??

When running, what does the amp gauge show? Discharge or charge?