ChrisRice Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Posted May 24, 2014 (edited) Well yes, but after several applications of penetrating oil, the line is still rust welded into the mc. I'm just going to replace and be done with it. Not to mention the bore of the mc shows a fair amount of rust. Edited May 24, 2014 by ChrisRice Quote
ChrisRice Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Posted June 3, 2014 Tried to insure the car through Hagertyy so that I would have insurance while test driving. The won't insure it because it's not kept in an enclosed garage. Um have they seen the pictures? Oh well, I will find someone else. Quote
mrwrstory Posted June 3, 2014 Report Posted June 3, 2014 Tried to insure the car through Hagertyy so that I would have insurance while test driving. The won't insure it because it's not kept in an enclosed garage. Um have they seen the pictures? Oh well, I will find someone else. I think the locked garage requirement is pretty standard for "collector cars". Quote
pflaming Posted June 4, 2014 Report Posted June 4, 2014 Chris, join the club. I too came to this forum with no prior experience, just an old truck which was complete. I figured I could bolt off, clean, repair, replace one part at a time and so I learned. The most important tools to me now are: shop space, service manual, the computer/ internet, and the forum. I've wired the truck, all new brake and fuel lines, etc., etc., and I'm enjoying the forum camaraderie and the tasks inviolved. My best to you. Quote
ChrisRice Posted June 4, 2014 Author Report Posted June 4, 2014 Paul, I value the same things. I just built my add on for my shop. Now to run the electric and internet to it. My collection of actual tools is growing as is my knowledge thanks to this forum. Car is going slow, but going still. My son starting taking the body to bare metal and removing old bondo. I have to get my welding equipment soon so that I can start the body work. I just got the car insured. I will register it soon and can begin road tests as soon as I finish replacing the brake system. Looks like the car had a master cylinder from an early 60s plymouth on it based on the part number on it. It will be replaced instead of rebuilt. I finally got the brake blocks loose but one of the fittings broke off in one. I'll try to use an easy out to get it out so I can reuse those. Quote
pflaming Posted June 4, 2014 Report Posted June 4, 2014 I just built my add on for my shop. Now to . . . Don't do as I did. . .with the add on! It's changes your entire perspective. Quote
ChrisRice Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Posted June 5, 2014 I just built my add on for my shop. Now to . . . Don't do as I did. . .with the add on! It's changes your entire perspective. I'm sure it does. I'll try my best not to do that. What a horrific view. Quote
ChrisRice Posted June 6, 2014 Author Report Posted June 6, 2014 (edited) Ever since I was first able to start my car, I have had the ignition coil hooked directly to the battery. ( I know it's a bad idea, and has to be disconnected to turn off the engine). I have been working on turning it off of the key. I hooked the ignition coil wire back to the horn relay, and noticed the voltage coming from it is only about 1.6v. Is this correct? I'm not certain how much power it should put out. Can anyone help? Edited June 7, 2014 by ChrisRice Quote
Merle Coggins Posted June 6, 2014 Report Posted June 6, 2014 (edited) I retract my statement due to the correction of your post. Edited June 7, 2014 by Merle Coggins Quote
ChrisRice Posted June 7, 2014 Author Report Posted June 7, 2014 (edited) I said starter solenoid, but what I meant was ignition coil. I have edited it to be correct. I'm sorry, too many things going through my head at once. Hopefully my question makes more sense now. Edited June 7, 2014 by ChrisRice Quote
ChrisRice Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) Thought I would update a little bit of my work. According to my build sheet, my car just celebrated its 59th birthday. For it, it received a carburetor rebuild. I also am finished replace all of the brake system. Their are a few leaks in the system, waiting for the sun to go down a bit before I tighten lines and rebelled the system. Meanwhile, my starter is giving me a few fits, so I'll be having that rebuilt soon. I have also been working on the wiring as it all needs to be replaced. My question now is this, according to the manual wiring diagrams, most of the wiring shows to be 16 gauge. This seems to be a bit small. I bought some 12, 14, 16, and 18 gauge wiring to do the replacements. The wire even looks smaller then what is presently on the car. What gives? Is 6 volt wire and 12 volt wire different? Edited July 8, 2014 by ChrisRice Quote
martybose Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 No, the 6V wire just has thicker insulation. Marty Quote
ChrisRice Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Posted July 8, 2014 No, the 6V wire just has thicker insulation. Marty . I agree that the insulation is thicker, however I am referring to the thickness of the actual stranded wires themselves. I agree that wire should be wire, the only other thing I can think of is that in the wiring diagrams it is not actually the gauge of the wire that is written on it. Quote
Young Ed Posted July 9, 2014 Report Posted July 9, 2014 Thought I would update a little bit of my work. According to my build sheet, my car just celebrated its 59th birthday. For it, it received a carburetor rebuild. I also am finished replace all of the brake system. Their are a few leaks in the system, waiting for the sun to go down a bit before I tighten lines and rebelled the system. Meanwhile, my starter is giving me a few fits, so I'll be having that rebuilt soon. I have also been working on the wiring as it all needs to be replaced. My question now is this, according to the manual wiring diagrams, most of the wiring shows to be 16 gauge. This seems to be a bit small. I bought some 12, 14, 16, and 18 gauge wiring to do the replacements. The wire even looks smaller then what is presently on the car. What gives? Is 6 volt wire and 12 volt wire different? The plastic coated wire will look a little smaller than the old cloth stuff. Just make sure you follow the chart and use at least the sizes called for. On my p15 I didn't use anything less than 14. All the 16g stuff for the lights I upgraded. Quote
ChrisRice Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) It's been a few weeks since I updated last, so here goes. When I rebuilt the carb, I put the choke back together wrong and it gave me a few fits, I took the choke off and then I rebuilt the starter. Cranks right up without hesitation now, I don't even have to pump the gas. I got to hit the pavement with the family for the first time; I've taken it for a few laps around the house before, but never to the asphalt. It turns a few heads on the short trips I take now, I love it. I got the brakes tightened up and it stops amazingly well. I replaced the muffler and pipe and it's much more quite (I opted for a quite muffler-- it is a wagon after all). I am getting more of the wiring replaced each day. Today it was the all the wiring that runs to the rear. I replaced the stock 16 gauge with 12 gauge-- a bit of overkill, but I had 500 feet of it, so why not. In order to do it, I had to pull off all of the interior trim pieces in the upper part of the car as well as remove the lift gate to take out the headliner. When I took off the trim, one of the rear windows fell out, so new rubber will be in order soon. The glass did not break, so I'll put it back in when I put the trim back in. That raises a question... The headliner in my car is a piece of ridged plastic. Is that correct for it? It is brittle and I have to be careful with it, I wanted to see if it's what is supposed to be in it. Also I still have no reverse so I will have to address that soon. I've been following the other 3sp OD threads, and I think it's just an adjustment. I have another generator coming in a few days, this one is supposed to be tested to be good. I'll keep my fingers crossed. I'll be happy to have a system that is charging itself properly. I also got the temp gauge working. I don't think the ammeter works. The dash lighting is coming back to life with the new wiring. The oil gauge still needs new steel tubing run to it. Speedometer is a bit jumpy, guess it needs to be tightened?? Also have to test it for accuracy. Busy, busy, busy. Edited July 29, 2014 by ChrisRice Quote
Young Ed Posted July 29, 2014 Report Posted July 29, 2014 The jumpy speedometer probably needs to be oiled. The cable should be lubed if you haven't and at least the earlier speedos had a little cup or wick piece that would allow you to oil the unit itself. Quote
ChrisRice Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Posted July 30, 2014 Thanks Ed, I'll try that. I got some 3 in 1 today for the speedo, I'll get something for the cable when I can get the right lube for it. Quote
ChrisRice Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Posted January 2, 2015 I am starting on metal work, replacing rocker panels, floorboards, and cutting out rot. On the places that I am cutting out old metal to fit with new (holes in fenders) I have looked at various sheet metal and found this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_241571-37672-11779_4294684417__?productId=3054577&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo= Wanted to get some opinions if this is what I should be using or if there is something better Quote
falconvan Posted January 3, 2015 Report Posted January 3, 2015 Cold rolled sheet is what you want but Lowes really charges an arm and a leg for it. You can probably get a 4 foot x 8 foot sheet of 18 or 20 gauge cold rolled steel sheet at any local steel supplier for $50- $60. Quote
DJ194950 Posted January 3, 2015 Report Posted January 3, 2015 Chris, Our local steel supply (No. Cal.) I can get 18Ga. cold rolled flat sheet about the same price for a 4'x4' sheet or a 4'x8' for a small amount more( no cutting charge). Call around, check the yellow pages, etc. DJ Quote
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