maok

Hi all, I'm having a very interesting problem with my '36 Airstream C7, the ignition dwell is 28 degrees not 38 degrees. The distributor has a Pertronix module and has been running flawlessly for the last 18 months when I installed it, but just the other day the car starting running bad, will start but runs very ordinary. Has anyone experienced this before? Interestingly my timing gun doesn't work well with the car running like this, its intermittent, I assume its due to the lack of voltage along the spark plug lead due to the dwell being so short (28*) and its not trigging the timing light. I've checked the usual things, ie. 12volts to the module, leads, cap, rotor, coil. Could it be my dwell meter...lol Its got me puzzled.

Make sure the pump is mounted at a level to the bottom of the tank or lower. This creates a siphoning affect, easier for the pump to pull the fuel.

What is the coil primary resistance on the coils you have used? They're are going bad for a reason. If you have too much current(amps) going through them they will get hot and eventually fail. For a 6volt system, you don't want more than 4 amps running through them.

What is the coil resistance on the primary connections? Is it 6v or 12v?

You're looking for a nice light brown/coffee latte colour on the porcelain, electrode and ground strap.

That spark plug electrode looks badly affected or are very old, what is your static advance timing? And is your vacuum advance functioning properly?

Make sure the shaft is thin like the mopar shaft. Another alternative is the Langdons HEI conversion, just got mine in the mail yet to be installed. Regarding Pertronix, most failures are probably installer error. Pertronix can run on 6v and can be reversed to points in minutes. Sorry no info on that coil. Check google for testing it, it's just a coil.

Yep, pull it out and work on it on the bench top. It would be a good time to give it a clean and a basic service as well ie check brushes, replace if needed, clean and grease the bearings, clean out between the common bars. They are very simple to work on.

Thanks for the lead. Unfortunately no luck, they only do from 1937 inwards. First year we have for the Chryslers is 1937. The 1937s use a 7/8 rear eye. The 1936s use a 31/32 rear eye.

Any one know of a source for rear leaf springs, specifically for a '36 C7 Airstream? I've tried a couple of vendors, one said no to a C7, other has ridiculous shipping price to bottom of the world.

No doubt about it Andy...:)

Hey Andy, thanks for the explanation of the brand, I thought it was a universal brand, not aust. specific...lol Are you sure about only boosting the front brakes? I think there were two sizes available, 7-1/2 and 9-3/4, I wonder if mine is the 7-1/2" and is undersized, will check tomorrow. I had it rebuilt awhile ago. Its got me stuffed, which is not hard at all....lol

Its probably no coincidence that it has loosened again, the post probably has another nut (and insulating washers/bushes) on the other side of the main casing which probably needs tightening or needs a lock washer as well.

Thanks for the link, very useful. I wonder if its my hose from the manifold to the booster, I did replace it but never checked its ID.

Thanks DJ, I'm having that brain drain too....lol Is the booster Too big? Its a 7" PBR VH44 designed for cars in the '60/70's with all drum brakes. Plumbed properly? Yes. A very simple setup, brake line from MC to remote booster then out to brake line which splits to all four wheels. Vacuum checked while driving? I haven't tried this, will give it ago, but I cant see how there would be a loss of vacuum. At idle with full vacuum, its still rock hard. Block vacuum off and check brake function again? Will give it ago. Perhaps a larger bore master cylinder which would give a longer pedal stroke and softer pedal? I would have thought the opposite. Free play in the brake piston rod correct? Seems to be correct, there is about an inch of free play before there is brake function.

Hey all you brake gurus, the previous owner installed a remote brake booster to help with brake pedal pressure, he was getting on in years. Ever since I've owned the car the brake pedal has always been rock hard, brakes work very well, so no issue with brake capacity but the booster does not seem to have any affect to the pedal feel. Initially I thought the remote booster needed a rebuild, due to the fact that the car hadn't been driven much since its restoration, so I had the booster rebuilt but this made no difference to the brake pedal feel. I've checked vacuum from the hose that feeds the booster from the inlet manifold, plenty of vacuum 20* on the gauge. I am finally stumped, any new ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

My fuel economy always improves when I drive down hills only....:) To be honest, fuel (petrol/gas) is cheap, our prices are between au$1.75 and $2 per litre (us$1.30- $1.60) currently, in 1990 when I was delivering pizza while at uni, it was about $0.90, more than 30 years ago, it just only has doubled, compare it to any other living expense since, fuel is cheap.

Nothing wrong with the plastic filters, just don't mount it next to the exhaust.

No need for all of that, its very low pressure. The supplied spring hose fasteners are ample, for more reassurance, use screw type hose claps instead of the spring type.

Yep, being able to drive off most of the time in 2nd gear is great, even with a small 218" (25") engine in my '37 mc Dodge.

Have your solenoid checked out by the auto electrician, your starter is fine

Disconnect the solenoid from the starter and apply power to the solenoid only, check if it still clicks.

Try it with the spark plugs removed. This will remove the load on the starter

Best to check the sender first.

I've been using a cheap Chinese pump ($15) for at least 3 years now, have one in both my mopars, one in the trunk as a spare as a just incase, an expensive Facet pump failed after 12 months. Two things you need with any electric fuel pump, a good fuel filter before it, and not let it run dry ie run out of fuel. And mount it at the bottom level of the tank and near it.