maok

The primary coil resistance (ie between the + and - terminals) should only be 1.5ohm or 3 ohm max

The step down converters won't charge your battery. As mentioned, go the 6v alternator or the complete conversion to 12v.

Yes, confirming #1 being at tdc is important, TDC marks could be out because of the damper, but unlikely imo. Your oil pump is not correctly indexed and hence why your rotor is pointing about 6:30 Its not that critical because you can adjust the body of the distributor and hence the cap #1 tower is at 6:30 then tune is normal.

Hi Andy, both my dodge and airstream have the one wire alternator, rated at 100amps, work fine with the original 30amp ammeter. You will find that the alternators don't output anywhere near their highest output under 2000rpm, more like a 1/3 of the max rating

The 32/36 is asynchronous ie primary (32) opens first then secondary (36), works well for economy and low speed, the 38 is synchronous ie both barrels open together, it should work better for the 2 barrel manifold. I have only tried both on a single barrel manifold, I prefer the 38 weber. Is that manifold for a 23" or 25"? I'm searching one for a 25"

Better would be the Weber 38/38

As per wiring diagram, you only need ONE wire from the alternator to the ammeter, nothing else needs to be wired to the alternator, even the ground wire is not needed, already grounded from the bracket. The double plug is not used. And not sure why you would have it wired to the coil.

The thermostat is there to set the minimum temp (ie 160, 170, 180, 195, etc) once the coolant temp rises above thermostat value, the thermostat cannot open (further) or close, so the temp keeps rising if the radiator and fan are not affective enough to reduce the temp.

If you are maintaining 40mph then the fan is really getting in the way, air flow through the rad is not being assisted by the fan, at lower speeds, yes. Best to direct air flow from the front to the rad if possible.

The perfect solution to your issue is, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Move house to where there is flat terrain....:) Or a bigger radiator.

You can definitely pull them out, clean, and re-grease. If the bushing threads are worn then replace with new ones but the biggest issue you may encounter is the thread in the chassis has worn away. I had this happened to me, I made new modern style (plate) shackles.

The wheels need to be free from the weight of the vehicle so that the shackles have no weight on them, the grease will enter a lot easier into the bushing.

Try raising the car up so the wheels are off the floor then pump the grease in.

You don't torque this nut, hand tight then check wheel movement, bit more or bit less depending on bearing play. You dont want to crush the bearing but you dont want it loose either. Hence the reason for the castle nut and split pin

Here are pics of the Stromberg EE-22 Note, where the fuel enters the fuel bowl, there has a been a repair.

I may have one available, I recently acquired 3x airflows with the same straight 8 engine, actually one of them is the 323ci, and the other 2 are the 298ci. I can check over the weekend, though, I am on the other hemisphere. Alternatively, a weber DGAS 38 or variants would work well after proper re-jetting.

FYI, it wasn't an issue with the Pertronix,

After doing more testing all of Sunday I have found the issue. it wasn't the Pertronix...lol! After going through every check possible on the Pertronix, including drilling the locating holes out to move the module closer in and further out, yes it did alter the dwell figure on the meter but could not get it to 38*, varied from 22* to 34*'ish had no luck. I still don't understand why my dwell meter reads 28* when installed in its fixed position (where the condensor locates) as Pertronix intended. When in the fixed position with 28* dwell I thought I would check my carb (Weber 38) settings, they were way out, running way too rich. So the problem after all of this was the carb adjustment not the Pertronix.

@nonstop I have many years experience with Pertronix with 3 different vintage cars, a '28 Chrysler 6, where there was no specific module available, so installed a pertronix unit with same polarity, voltage and cylinders, basically screwed it onto the breaker plate of the distributor, worked perfectly. A 6 voltage version on my '37 Dodge MC again worked perfectly and this '36 Airstream (12volt) until this issue. With both modules acting in a similar manner, I don't think this is a module problem here. I did check the voltage at the coil (12.4) and red wire of the module, again same voltage reading, even increased the size of the wire to the module. @Plymouthy Adams so what do you think is the issue here?

I should also add that it doesn't vary with increase in rpm being the ignitor 1 module

Hi Ken, yes, its rock steady 28* 'ish. I have measured before this issue it was a rock steady 38*'ish. The module is the Ignitor 1 with lobe sensing feature, so no adaptive feature like the Ignitor 2 that @Sniper posted the chart of earlier. The coils I have used are the Bosch SU12 with 3ohm internal resistance. Though its possible that the 2nd module is defective as well but in this case very unlikely seeing both are acting exactly the same. The original module has been working perfectly fine for the last 2 years but all of a sudden something has caused it to this situation. Technical support has come back to say that its usually a low voltage or bad grounding problem but I cannot find any issues regarding this, I even attached a wire from the base of the module to the negative terminal of the battery to eliminate the ground issue.

What if the pertronix module is a lobe sensing unit?

The meter measures the dwell at the coil, like it says, dwell still takes place at the coil, no different to points.

PA, I've checked the dwell when the Pertronix was working correctly in the past, its always a rock solid 38*'ish on a dwell meter. Remember, the Pertronix is a simple replacement of the points, simply turns the coil on and off.

Well the mystery deepens. After receiving a new Pertronix module, exactly the same result. It has me totally puzzled. I have replaced the coil, checked all the wiring and voltage levels (12.4v) still 28* dwell. Yet, switching back to points and condensor, with adjustment of the points gap, I get the correct 38* dwell, so my meter is working correctly. ???