Alaska48 Posted July 13, 2008 Report Posted July 13, 2008 FINALLY!!!! I got her to turn over and fire... ignition coil was the culprit!!!! I was so excited to take it a quick run around the culdasac, just a few yards or so... came to the quick realization that I have no brakes... no accidents (no traffic on a dead end road) so I "momentumed" her back into the garage... I guess thats step 2 now, but at least she runs... Quote
JerseyHarold Posted July 13, 2008 Report Posted July 13, 2008 CONGRATS!!! Now that you've got it going, you have to get it to stop. Brake parts are easy to get. Start looking for a rear drum puller now....you're going to need one. Quote
55 Fargo Posted July 13, 2008 Report Posted July 13, 2008 Thats great, is this engine rebuilt? If not have you gone over the igntion, fuel system, cooling system etc. The brakes, have your MC rebuilt, or buy another, or are you going with upgrade front disc and a dual mc. Either way get all new lines, hoses, Raybestos wheel cyls are priced well through Rock Auto, front disc kits are available from Old Daddy ( just purchase the pads, rotors and calipres at your local NAPA for Charlies kits, he has a great price on them), and ECI Brakes, Scarebird etc. No feeling like hearing the flattie fire up the first time......................Fred Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 13, 2008 Report Posted July 13, 2008 as Enzo Ferarri always said, brakes just slow ya down.... Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted July 13, 2008 Report Posted July 13, 2008 Something else that easy to make and is well worth the time spent building and that is a brake bleeder. On this site there an area that shows you how to manufacture one out of a one gallon garden sprayer. I built one and it really helped me when it came down to the final process of getting all the air out of your brakes lines. Very simple to build and cost maybe around $20. Quote
greg g Posted July 14, 2008 Report Posted July 14, 2008 Has anybody ever tired a reverse pressure bleed??? That is forcing new fluid into the bleeder and up the line into the reservoir. Seems it would work easier than presurising the MC. Unless of course vapor lock is a concern. Quote
PatS.... Posted July 14, 2008 Report Posted July 14, 2008 Congrats on getting it running...and good luck on the brakes. Just like getting it running, a little patience and you can do it. Quote
JoelOkie Posted July 14, 2008 Report Posted July 14, 2008 Compressed air bleeder for a 46 Plymouth coupe . Need an old vent plug, a 7/16 " bit, and a 1/2 " tap (for 1/4 " npt quick connect). I have an air dryer on my compressor for painting purposes, so condensation is not an issue. Brakes bleed at 12-14 lbs. The one for an older type mc in a 49 b1b is even easier, as it already is threaded for 1/2 pipe thread...just used a 1/2 to 1/4 reducer. I used one this weekend to blow the old brake fluid out on the b1b. I have a new mc to go in the b1b which has a 1/2 fine thread in the vent plug hole, so I got a 1/2 copper fine thread to 1/2 pipe thread, which allows the same setup with the 1/2 -1/4 reducer/ to quick coupler to fit right in. Living in a house with a wife and 6 daughters, (none of whom were/are tomboys, or care to help me with an old car unless they absolutely have to), I have had to find ways to get it done on my own. Joel Quote
NatesSedan Posted July 14, 2008 Report Posted July 14, 2008 Very nice! Let us know how the brakes turn out. Brakes are the only project that are good when progress comes to a stop. Quote
RobertKB Posted July 14, 2008 Report Posted July 14, 2008 Alaska48, congratulations. You have had a long process to get it running but you stuck with it and didn't give up! Once you get the brakes working you will truly enjoy driving the old girl. Quote
Heavy Flat Head Posted July 15, 2008 Report Posted July 15, 2008 Alaska48, congratulations also. I bet you found a new joy when you stayed with it. Not a lot of people have what it takes, welcome to the club. Mopar or no car. Aslo the best, Mopars rule. Ed. Quote
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