Manifold Gaskets ???

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, I have new manifold gaskets for both exhaust and intake, I also need to order the gasket that goes between the 2 manifolds.

I also need the gaskt that goes between the electric choke and manifold, any idea from where I may find one, or can I make this one?

The 4 bolts, that hold the 2 manifolds together did not break, but are in rough shape, the ends of the threading are rusting away, can I replace these with new bolts, that are course threa, the OEM ones are fine thread, must be for a reason.

After I get the manifolds cleaned up, I will shoot on some high heat paint..............Fred ps man was there ever a lot of oil leaking from the valve covers

[greg g]

You should be able to find fine thread bolts for you manifolds at the hardware.

Fine threads take a torque load more accurately than course threads, but for this application course threads should be OK if your store doesn't have fines.

The choke gasket is just a solid piece, trace the out line and cut it out

Should be good to go

[55 Fargo]

You should be able to find fine thread bolts for you manifolds at the hardware.

Fine threads take a torque load more accurately than course threads, but for this application course threads should be OK if your store doesn't have fines.

The choke gasket is just a solid piece, trace the out line and cut it out

Should be good to go

Greg, what type of gasket material is required for this gasket? Thanx Fred

[TodFitch]

Depending on vintage of manifold, the gasket between the intake and exhaust may be available. I believe someone posted the numbers recently. And I would not be surprised if GTK has them posted on the main part of this site.

However your gasket, like mine, is not available then you can buy high temperature gasket material from your local good auto supply store and cut your own. Getting the bolt holes done well is much easier if you have a set of gasket hole punches and you can get a cheap set of those from Harbor Freight.

[Don Coatney]

Assuming you have a long block your manifold gasket number is FELPRO 8585.

One reason you may have oil leaks in your valve cover gaskets is your drain

back holes may be plugged allowing the oil to pool behind the valve covers

instead of draining back to the crankcase. This probe is sticking in one such

drain hole.

Did the long bolts holding your manifolds together have nuts on them or were

they threadded into the manifold?

[55 Fargo]

Don, just as you have pictrued here, long nut and bolt, yes mine is a long block.

A little sludge problem, I see, wonder is STP would have prevented that......LOL

My parts car engine did not even have any sludge, I have never seen sludgelike that before.

Should I have that kinda sludge, hey hold on here I am getting confused...............LOL

[55 Fargo]

Another question Don, how does your run at first, when cold, without a heatriser.........Fred

[Don Coatney]

Another question Don, how does your run at first, when cold, without a heatriser.........Fred

My engine is cold blooded and does not run well until it has warmed up.

[Young Ed]

Fred the short 23 blocks don't have through bolts like yours does. Thats why Norm mentioned they usually break. Because they usually do. Even my fenton had 1 bolt broken off in it. Then its a pain to get the stub out! I think the next one I do I will cut the bolt heads off and then use a stud puller on whats left.

[55 Fargo]

Don, did you use fine thread or course thread for the 4 bolts joining your intake/exhaust manifold.

Mine were originally fine, but will use course, if I can't find suitable replacements, as Greg has mentioned, fine threads torque better, 15 to 20 ft lbs I think.

[Don Coatney]

Don, did you use fine thread or course thread for the 4 bolts joining your intake/exhaust manifold.

Mine were originally fine, but will use course, if I can't find suitable replacements, as Greg has mentioned, fine threads torque better, 15 to 20 ft lbs I think.

I used fine thread grade 8 bolts and hardware. Believe I bought the bolts and hardware from ACE hardware. Proper procedure is to tighten both the intake and exhaust manifolds to the engine block first, and then tighten the bolts that hold the manifolds together. I did not use a torque wrench. I tightened them until my personal comfort level was satisfied. No leaks to date.

[JIPJOBXX]

You might want to use a grade 5 bolt and nuts they are a little higher in price but are alot more stronger. Oh yes don't forget to put some antisize on the threaded part of the bolts so if you ever haft to remove those bolts they will come apart with no problems.

[Don Coatney]

You might want to use a grade 5 bolt and nuts they are a little higher in price but are alot more stronger. Oh yes don't forget to put some antisize on the threaded part of the bolts so if you ever haft to remove those bolts they will come apart with no problems.

Most grade 5 and lower bolts are not available in SAE threads.

[james curl]

Any good parts store should sell Dorman products which include grade 8 fine thread bolts, nuts and studs, fine on one end and course on the other. Should also have the throttle rod ends, leaf spring center bolts in many lengths and many other special parts.