Questions on 54 C-1 truck project

[888]

48 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

To me that looks like a happy tail pipe .... just a hint of brown on the inside   I bet the engine will run decent, although it might not start right up without fussing with it.

The body looks extremely good .... living in the rust belt it looks miraculously good.

The rest of it is a fun DIY stuff you can take care of.

It looks decent to me as well. 

The owner said the truck came from Colorado so that probably explains a lot.  I've learned to look elsewhere for anything rust free....my son lives an hour north of Seattle and that's the perfect environment for cars.  No snow so no salt and not enough sun to bake paint or interiors.  Unfortunately, it's $1,500 to have something shipped back but I have been looking just in case the impossible deal shows up and he's Facetimed me before so I could look at something. 

[bkahler]

I bought my 51 B3B when I was visiting Idaho in 1996.  From what I was told they don't salt the roads in the winter and my truck had only surface rust.  I didn't have to do any rust repair on the truck.  Dents and dings, yep, it had lots of those

 

Finding a rust free truck is worth the additional initial investment.

[Veemoney]

 For comparison of similar truck just listed. Not mine and don't know the seller.

Marketplace - 1948 Dodge Ram Wagon B150 | Facebook

[888]

17 hours ago, Veemoney said:

 For comparison of similar truck just listed. Not mine and don't know the seller.

Marketplace - 1948 Dodge Ram Wagon B150 | Facebook

If I was close enough to Kansas to check that out, I'd definitely have a look at it and quite possibly buy it.  It just seems that few to none of these survivors show up around here because the salt kills them. 

[Los_Control]

So what happened with the one you are looking at?

 

I feel price of vintage vehicles is directly related to the economy. Currently in a poor economy and prices are down and nobody wants to buy.

In a good economy people are optimistic and things sell and prices go up.

I think we are at the end of a poor economy and people will start buying and prices are only going to rise from here.

On the radio yesterday, home sales have been stagnant and all of a sudden they are starting to move again.

 

I have watched sales prices of these trucks for years ... I have seen some sell for a crazy high price of $18K and later see they are repairing wiring and fixing broken gauges ... things that should have been fixed for that price .... full blown restored Dodge trucks selling for $22K ... they just do not hold the same value as a Ford or Chebby of the same year.

 

I see trucks for sale on FB https://www.facebook.com/groups/pilothouse

 

I just have a biased opinion on what they are worth ... I get a nice survivor holds a basic value.

I bought a barnyard chicken coop that was ready to be retired after it sat in the yard for 30 years for $2K delivered to my door.

 

Every body part on the truck has been removed except the cab, frame and suspension has all been painted and greased ... new zirk fittings where needed. .... cooling system on this engine was work that needed to be done .... Water distribution tube is a chore.

 

 

Today I'm getting excited, after a few years in my spare time bringing this truck back to life ... I will be driving it in a few months.

 

I painted the truck in October 2023 and in February 2025 I gave baby her first bath  🤣

 

I just feel with the basic work that has been done and it is a good mechanically solid truck, all rust has been replaced.

It is converted to GM 12V charging system, Dodge slant 6 electronic ignition, Toyota dual circuit master cylinder All new brakes and fuel system, tires ...... All new electrical wiring ..... This truck is maybe worth $8500 .... just a honest opinion on my own truck that is not for sale and hope it is ready to drive anywhere.

 

I just get upset when someone has a truck they know little about and ask top dollar when it needs so much work.

Next week the same truck may sell for $12K and be kicking yourself for not buying it while you had the chance.

[888]

Nice truck and solid opinion, thanks.

 

I hear you.  I feel like I may be in the kicking myself phase if I don't at least try to make a move. 

 

I didn't hear anything today so I sent a message this evening.  I keep looking at the photos of the 54 (I have quite a few more I haven't uploaded inside the fenders and other rust prone spots that look really good) and I just don't know when I'll find another one of these this solid in my own back yard where I can lay hands (and magnets) on it. 

 

So I'm going up there tomorrow (if the weather holds out, we are supposed to have snow, freezing rain, rain and more snow tomorrow/sunday) with cash in hand.  I told them I'm interested as it sits but want to work a deal. 

 

It appears they still can't find the key.   Switches with keys are $7.60 on Rock Auto and I just had to replace one on my 92 D350 so that's not a big deal. 

 

But that also means I can't start it. 

 

It's a flathead six that seems to be a pretty bulletproof engine with parts available, right?  The truck has been restored at some point before it was parked, it's hard to believe they would restore something with a bad engine or not go through it to some degree.  He said it ran when he bought it, which I take with a grain of salt because it can't be proven, but nothing else I've seen he's bought has been junk.  But I care more about the sheet metal here in Ohio than the mechanicals.

 

I expect it will need coaxing and maybe some ignition parts to start after sitting but I'm okay with that.  I still have my dwell meter etc.  

 

However, if I can manually turn the engine and feel compression, I would feel better.  What is the crank nut size, can I get to it, what would I need?    CW direction of rotation? 

 

We've talked about VIN....I only found the dataplate on the firewall uploaded on an earlier post and I didn't see anything anywhere else.   I did not check anything on the engine serial number other than a T prefix so that seems right, if the engine does not match the firewall plate, is there another VIN plate or ID, where it is located?  He said the truck was from Colorado so I should see that on the Ohio title but how else do I align the truck with the title?  It doesn't have to go through the Ohio out of state inspection (basically checks body VIN versus title VIN) but still wondering how I know they match.  He has the beater 54 there as well, just want to be sure I get the right title.

 

The hour or two I spent around these guys yesterday was informative, I spent an hour just talking to the owner, we both grew up in the rougher areas Dayton.  This guy owns property all over the place from Ohio to Virginia and the guy I'm working with is like a property manager/maintenance guy for everything in addition to trying to sell the cars.  He said the boss owns most of the houses in a few places.  

 

The owner said he has an old pharmacy nearby the school where he keeps the nicer Rolls Royces.  Apparently, the school holds the low rent stuff, most of his nice cars are in Virginia where he lived before coming to Ohio.  He's sent quite a few of them to Mecum already from what he's said and I tend to believe him. 

 

This truck is small potatoes in the big picture, that's why he called them away to work on something else when I was standing there and they couldn't find the key.  It's change in the ashtray to him but he still wants that change, except when there are larger potatoes to buy elsewhere. 

 

It's been an adventure. 

 

Thanks!

Edited Saturday at 01:08 AM by 888

[Los_Control]

Just one of those things ..... I remember when my Uncle passed away.

He had 2 acres of vehicles and most would start and drive onto a trailer. ...55 chevy and 56 Packards ... 49 chevy .... 71 Monte Carlo

When Uncle passed away, the family called in a wrecking crew and they paid $100 for each vehicle removed from the property.

 

The family wanted nothing to do with the old cars and simply had them hauled away ...

This is where your seller is at .... He realizes what will happen and is trying to liquidate before he passes.

I understand what he is doing and trying to sell before he passes.

 

Some people are just impossible to make a deal with.

 

 

 

 

 

[kencombs]

5 hours ago, 888 said:

Nice truck and solid opinion, thanks.

 

I hear you.  I feel like I may be in the kicking myself phase if I don't at least try to make a move. 

 

I didn't hear anything today so I sent a message this evening.  I keep looking at the photos of the 54 (I have quite a few more I haven't uploaded inside the fenders and other rust prone spots that look really good) and I just don't know when I'll find another one of these this solid in my own back yard where I can lay hands (and magnets) on it. 

 

So I'm going up there tomorrow (if the weather holds out, we are supposed to have snow, freezing rain, rain and more snow tomorrow/sunday) with cash in hand.  I told them I'm interested as it sits but want to work a deal. 

 

It appears they still can't find the key.   Switches with keys are $7.60 on Rock Auto and I just had to replace one on my 92 D350 so that's not a big deal. 

 

But that also means I can't start it. 

 

It's a flathead six that seems to be a pretty bulletproof engine with parts available, right?  The truck has been restored at some point before it was parked, it's hard to believe they would restore something with a bad engine or not go through it to some degree.  He said it ran when he bought it, which I take with a grain of salt because it can't be proven, but nothing else I've seen he's bought has been junk.  But I care more about the sheet metal here in Ohio than the mechanicals.

 

I expect it will need coaxing and maybe some ignition parts to start after sitting but I'm okay with that.  I still have my dwell meter etc.  

 

However, if I can manually turn the engine and feel compression, I would feel better.  What is the crank nut size, can I get to it, what would I need?    CW direction of rotation? 

 

We've talked about VIN....I only found the dataplate on the firewall uploaded on an earlier post and I didn't see anything anywhere else.   I did not check anything on the engine serial number other than a T prefix so that seems right, if the engine does not match the firewall plate, is there another VIN plate or ID, where it is located?  He said the truck was from Colorado so I should see that on the Ohio title but how else do I align the truck with the title? 

The VIN wasn't a thing until I think late 60s.   Makers had serial/model info on the body ,engine and sometimes the frame.   Different states used different info on titles.  In OK they used the plate on the cab/firewall that has a SN, weight etc.   Other states used the engine, which can cause problems after an engine swap.   My 56 has the tag on the left side of the firewall, kind of hard to see.   Mine had a one digit mismatch from the title because the last digit was misread by a KS owner or official sometime in the distant past.   Luckily I got to deal with the Cherokee nation tag/title office and they looked at the tag and corrected the title without a big hassle.

[888]

Roads are bad today, still waiting to see if they are going up there or not. 

 

I've been going through the photos again (I have 104 of them) and found a few parts that I wondered if are original to the truck or not.  The Mopar Deluxe heater, Signal Stat 21-L taillight, and the Carter carb....

[bkahler]

The tail light is not original which doesn't surprise me, nor is the bracket.  I would consider the tail light to be small potatoes in the grand scheme of things.

 

The carburetor should be correct. 

 

The heaters were typically dealer installed items, at least they were for the B series and I would imagine the same for the C series.

 

This is a tail light from a B series truck. 

 

 

Same carburetor on my truck although your's is likely a different version.

[Los_Control]

The Carter B&B carburetor is correct.

 

In 1950 the heater was a option and usually installed by the dealer or owner ... not sure what year factory started installing them

 

The plastic sheathing on the tail light wires I believe is not original ... I have the same on mine just out of convenience and availability. To me the tail light bracket might be home made .... the light appears to be to close to the body ... I dunno

No idea if the signal stat light is OEM or not ... whats on the other side?

I would say it is good quality and equal to OEM .... mine the cases are plastic and would prefer something metal like those are.

While my brackets are home made also, they mimic the original and hold the light away from the body, not rubbing on it.

DCM sells new brackets ... I'm just too cheap to buy them   😛 

[888]

Thanks for the replies and information.  Glad to hear the carb and heater are probably OEM and original. 

 

The taillight on the other side is the same.   I only wondered because Googling the Signal Stat part number didn't come up with anything so I figured it was older.   There also is a splice in the harness near the light, another sign it was added later. 

 

I thought that there should be a bracket for the license plate on the taillight but there is what appears to be a light under the center of the tailgate that I assume is for a license plate, it must have been relocated or added later. 

[Los_Control]

I'm guessing it is original.

looking at some different trucks, I found one that was under the tail light and 4 others that were in the middle.

 

[888]

Short version is that I bought it.  I kinda screwed up because I had a meeting with a contractor this morning that took long enough that the banks were closed so my pocket full of cash wasn't all that impressive but I'm okay with what I paid for it.  I'm going with the "kicking myself later" thought process. 

 

Also....

I found the original air cleaner assembly.

The original spare tire carrier is in the bed.

The title VIN matches the dataplate on the firewall, the mileage is shown as actual on the title (58,xxx)

He hasn't found the key but we hotwired it so I've heard it turn over briskly, heard the fuel pump kick on/smelled fuel. 

(He showed me the massive number of keys in his briefcase and promised he would have one of his guys go through them and find the key that went with the truck). 

It rolls freely, and goes in and out of gear just fine.

Oil was clean and to the proper level on the dipstick.

Rear brake cylinders will need to be replaced, which is why the brakes were down.

He said he has another 54 parts truck in Virginia so if I need something, I'm supposed to just give him a call and he'll get me what I need. 

The more I looked at it, the more I liked it and again, when else am I going to find one I can see personally?  So I bought it. 

 

The Rolls Royce behind it had a stuck brake so it needs to be freed up so they can get it out.  I will deliver the balance due tuesday after work (banks are closed on monday)  and get the title.  I'll make arrangements to have AAA bring it home wednesday after work.  

 

I really don't think it will take much to get it going but I'm sure you guys will help me if I get stuck, right? 

 

I spent a few hours with him one on one when he invited me to see the other cars in the pharmacy in the neighboring town.  He can't drive right now for some reason so I drove him around.  He told me he barely made it though high school but somehow he's done really well.  When you can outbid Jay Leno for a car in the $250k+ range, I'd say you're doing okay. 

 

And there are more cars in Virginia, he is going down there thursday to meet with folks to sell those and check on some real estate developments he has going. 

 

As Los Control said, he's just divesting himself of most of the cars because he knows his sons don't know or care what they are.  He doesn't need the money (obviously!) but he has a history with each of them in some way or another, he bought my 54 from a very good friend when his friend's health started to fail.  Now his health is failing and he is trying to get them new homes before he runs out of time. 

 

Anyway, that's probably more than you needed to know but it's been a very unique adventure.    More to follow when I get it home. 

 

First order of business is to find a good rear bumper and brackets to protect that sheet metal out back!

 

Thanks for the opinions and responses.

[Los_Control]

Sounds great. Seems obvious you were serious about wanting one .... when you find the right one the price is kinda secondary.

I bought mine from a facebook photo and paid for it to be delivered before I ever saw it in person.

Because it was the exact year I wanted, I knew what and where would need to be fixed typically .... I may have paid too much, but I'm totally fine with it now.

 

If I'm correct on predicting the future and the economy will improve, probably about the cheapest you will ever be able to buy the truck .... good on you for snagging it up and saving it.

Different areas of the USA demands different prices on used trucks .... In the rust belt, finding a 2010 truck that is not a total rust bucket for under $10K can be difficult.

In Texas, I bought my rust free 1991 chebby step side with 350/5spd for $2k and been driving it for the last 9 years.

 

Now the fun begins.

If it were me, I would add some marvel mystery oil or 50/50 mix of ATF/acetone to the cylinders and let the rings soak.

You have cast iron rings and some sort of aluminum alloy pistons ... dissimilar metals and the rings tend to stick to the pistons after sitting for some time.

Common to have low compression on first start up because the rings are stuck to the pistons and not sealing as they should. .... just because it turns over freely, I would still soak the cylinders. 

 

Keep us informed on how it is going ... winter blues here, seems it will be another week before I can get outside and do any work.

[bkahler]

Congratulations!

 

Buying a new (to you) used vehicle is always a step into the unknown.  From your pictures and personal observations I think you did just fine.  You may have paid more than you really wanted to but not having to deal with panel repairs is where a lot of money gets spent.

 

DCM Classics sells rear bumper but they are only listed up to 1953.  Maybe with some research you can find out what the differences might be between 53 and 54.  It could be just something to do with how it mounts to the frame.

 

Take the ignition switch to a good lock smith and that will solve your key problem and if ignition switch is original to the truck then it should work for the door key.

 

I think Los nailed it on the license plate light.  It looks like the brackets are still there to hold the plate as well so that's a bonus.

 

I'm looking forward to watching your rejuvenation thread

 

[888]

Yeah, we used to go to Texas for trucks because they were plentiful, cheap, and not rusty.  That truck would be $10k up here. 

 

I've learned through months of looking to not even look at older trucks under $7k because they were going to still be complete basketcases.  Or "I took this apart some years ago and know all of the parts are here" (unmarked, in random boxes) or "mostly solid, I have all of the patch panels needed to fix the rust". 

 

Once you establish that, it's not hard to spend a bit more on something like this. 

 

Mix in a few bad experiences with sight unseen purchases even with photos and videos and having it an hour away, well, it becomes a no brainer. 

 

I just had to get comfortable with having a C-1, which wasn't made for long.  

 

Understood on the rings, I have a bottle of 50/50 ATF and acetone already mixed, I use it on everything that needs to come loose, I used it on Ford 8N rings that had been open to atmosphere for years and it got them loose. 

[JBNeal]

On 2/15/2025 at 8:39 AM, 888 said:

...

I thought that there should be a bracket for the license plate on the taillight but there is what appears to be a light under the center of the tailgate that I assume is for a license plate, it must have been relocated or added later. 

from Bunn's C-series Trucks Restoration Guide:

 

[rustyzman]

Congrats on making the purchase!  That truck looks very good from the pictures and that alone will put you ahead of the game. 

 

My '54 C1D was in very poor shape when I bought it, with issues in absolutely every system ranging from inconvenient to pretty devastating.  Plus it is a 1 ton, so many parts are harder to source.  Even with that, I have gone through all the mechanicals and located most everything I needed, even if some took a bit of time to find.

 

Good news is that a whole lot of parts can be had, especially for a 1/2 ton.  Engine mechanicals are all available.  Brakes are available (minus drums, maybe? not sure)  Wheels and tires are much easier for that one.  Glass is available.  Wearing components for the suspension and steering are available.  Bed kits are available.  Driveline parts are available.

 

None of it is as easy as buying parts for a ford or a chevy, but these are much more unique and rare, at least around here.

 

Looks like you will have a great base to start with and a really nice truck to have fun with.  Good Choice.

 

 

[ggdad1951]

No kicking yourself, enjoy the ride!  Congrats on the addition!

[888]

I now pay the balance due thursday and should be getting it home friday after work.  I guess moving that Rolls Royce with a frozen rear brake is harder than they thought.  the guy said the entire undercarriage seemed to be covered and he couldn't find a jack point and didn't want to guess for obvious reasons.

 

So I was searching the web for a 12 volt battery that would fit the existing tray (found one) and got into a rabbit hole on license plates.  And wouldn't you know I found a few sets of 1954 Colorado truck plates on eBay...they really do have pretty much everything.

 

These are the nicer ones, I might have to get them. 

 

 

[Veemoney]

Congratulations on the truck purchase. If you haven't already checked under the seat, above the visor, in the glove box or the ashtray there may be more treasure to find in that truck. I have found keys and titles in all those places on past purchases. Looking forward to your progress updates on this truck.

[888]

My glovebox is gone so nothing in there, I checked the visors, nothing there, I haven't checked under the seat yet.

 

VW sometimes tucked the build sheet in the rear seat between the bottom of the cushion and the springs so I've learned to look everywhere. 

[ggdad1951]

11 hours ago, 888 said:

I now pay the balance due thursday and should be getting it home friday after work.  I guess moving that Rolls Royce with a frozen rear brake is harder than they thought.  the guy said the entire undercarriage seemed to be covered and he couldn't find a jack point and didn't want to guess for obvious reasons.

 

So I was searching the web for a 12 volt battery that would fit the existing tray (found one) and got into a rabbit hole on license plates.  And wouldn't you know I found a few sets of 1954 Colorado truck plates on eBay...they really do have pretty much everything.

 

These are the nicer ones, I might have to get them. 

 

 

 

Assuming you are looking for Ohio plates tho?

[888]

5 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

Assuming you are looking for Ohio plates tho?

The truck actually came from Colorado so that's what I'm planning to run.  

 

I can transfer one of my Ohio Historical plates to the truck for $5 and they are originally good for 50 years I believe., I have a few sets ready to expire but one that should be good for a while.  I am allowed to run plates from the year the truck was made as long as I keep the registered Historical plate available in the truck for display.  I am actually supposed to run 1954 Ohio plates but cops typically don't bother you if it's an older vehicle and clearly something nice.  

 

I recently sold a one owner 65 VW beetle that still had the original black and yellow California plates on it and I drove it quite a bit like that while I had it, no one bothered me, but I had the Ohio plate inside if needed. 

 

My wife has worked for the local county court for quite a while and knows all of the judges, prosecutors, and many of the cops so if I do get stopped, it might not be an issue unless it happens 3 or 4 times