docrock Posted September 29 Report Share Posted September 29 First of all I would like to say what a great site this and the info on here is outstanding. I bought my Desoto from I guy who was going to race it or do something with non stock changes. The pedal assembly and brackets are all missing. All brake parts are missing. I did find a guy on here that sold me an awesome disk brake conversion. I have installed it, so I am done with that part. The car has no rear axle so I am looking for something for that. Recently I bought a clutch pedal linkage kit off ebay but dont know where it a attaches. Maybe I should buy a master cylinder and a pivot shaft and go from there or what are your thoughts? The trans is I believe an automatic with clutch. I have read a few posts on here about it and I think about that later. The motor is a Chrysler industrial 6 with a Spitfire head. Motor spins over but wont start. It has no timing mark on the pully and no harmonic balancer if it ever had one. Also has no pointer on the chain cover. I did stick a wire through the the number 6 npt plug hole and got it close but maybe there is another way to check it. Not sure how much was taken apart on the motor but the distributor wires were not in the right order so who knows what some people have done to this poor car. I am sure this car was going to the crusher and just couldnt let that happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docrock Posted September 29 Author Report Share Posted September 29 front.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docrock Posted September 29 Author Report Share Posted September 29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted September 29 Report Share Posted September 29 Wow someone really messed with it. One option for the brakes and clutch would be an original master cylinder but I’m pretty sure they don’t come with the pivot pin. I may be wrong so check with the suppliers. For the rear axle either Ford or Jeep. Search the technical section of the forum as this subject has been discussed a good deal. You’ve got your work cut out for you but you’ll have a good looking car when it’s done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecoozie Posted September 29 Report Share Posted September 29 Sent you a PM (Private Message) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QEC Posted October 3 Report Share Posted October 3 Looks good at 20 feet. What are the long term plans? Does the L6 need to be a runner or are you going the v-8 route? Since your pedal assembly and mc are missing perhaps a swinging pedal would be in your favour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docrock Posted October 3 Author Report Share Posted October 3 Actually Joe is putting some parts together for me on the pedal assembly. The motor I want to get running. Basically stock is my direction. Once the brakes and rear axle are sorted out I will deal with the motor. The lack of a timing mark problem really sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted October 4 Report Share Posted October 4 Pull the plugs out. Turn the engine by hand with a finger over number one cylinder. When compression pushes your finger off that should be tdc. The rotor should be at the 7 o’clock position and that plug wire should be number one cylinder. That should be close enough to get the engine running then there are ways of tweaking the timing even without the mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docrock Posted October 4 Author Report Share Posted October 4 I tried that and pulled the npt plug to get the top. I will try that again. I am starting to think that some valves are stuck open. I am going to do a compression check and see if that is the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 4 Report Share Posted October 4 1 hour ago, Doug&Deb said: Pull the plugs out. Turn the engine by hand with a finger over number one cylinder. When compression pushes your finger off that should be tdc. The rotor should be at the 7 o’clock position and that plug wire should be number one cylinder. That should be close enough to get the engine running then there are ways of tweaking the timing even without the mark. coming out of the starter gate is Doug as they near the first turn and as he closes to the inside... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted October 4 Report Share Posted October 4 The timing issue has been discussed many times over the years, While 7:00 O'clock is the ideal position when everything is correct ... it is not always true ... my No1 plug is at 6:00 O'clock position. Depends on who installed the oil pump and if they followed instructions .... the oil pump is geared and is easy to get off 1 or 2 teeth when installing. These engines do not care, just make sure thee plug wires are installed to match distributor. So find TDC compression stroke for No1, where the rotor is facing is where No1 plug wire goes ... start your firing order from there, You stated the previous owner had the wires wrong, might be possible he was right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docrock Posted October 5 Author Report Share Posted October 5 Update... On the pedal assembly, I am waiting for parts from Joe. I will post when I get them installed. On the engine I did a compression test. I have 30 pounds on 1, 2, 3, and 4. Nothing on 5 and 6. Probably valves stuck open. Which leads to the next question...can I pull the manifolds and go through the valve cover or take the head off? I am kind of afraid of taking the head off, and breaking the bolts off. It turns out the motor is a 1951 Chrysler . On the transmission it turns out that the trans is the original 1947. The wrecking yard gave me a 51 transmission, also automatic. Let me know your thoughts on the compression Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted October 5 Report Share Posted October 5 Removing the head would be your best bet. Search the technical section for ways to remove the head bolts without breaking them. You should also find different methods for unsticking valves. You need more compression than that for it to run. Honestly stuck valves are normal for an engine that has sat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted October 5 Report Share Posted October 5 I would try soaking the cylinders with marvel mystery oil or 50/50 mix of atf/acetone. The cast iron rings tend to stick to the aluminum alloy pistons .... whatever they are made of .... rings are like a spring and need to contract -expand in the ring grooves to seal. If they are stuck due to corrosion, soaking them will help free them up. Same with the valve stems, the old oil gets gummy and the valves no longer slide easily. Soaking will help the valve guides also. You can remove the valve covers on the side to reach them .... Is suggested to adjust the valves with engine hot and running. Mine was better then yours when I started, I had one cylinder at 30psi, couple at 60-80 .... I just soaked them while working on other things. When I started it and ran it through some heat cycles, I soaked it some more .... one cylinder is at 95 the rest 100+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted October 5 Report Share Posted October 5 Here's the write up I did when I ran into this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docrock Posted October 14 Author Report Share Posted October 14 Update. No pedal assembly yet but it's on its way. I pulled the head, broke 5 bolts, filled the cylinders several times with marvelous mystery oil. Sprayed more pb rust on the broken ones, and on Monday I will try the nut weld on trick. Valves are not closing all the way so I will work on that too. Thank you for all for the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QEC Posted October 14 Report Share Posted October 14 Reaching inside of a nut with your stinger can be a challenge. I start with laying a heavy 3/16" washer on the deck and welding that to the stub. More room to work the weld. Then I add a large nut to the washer and you can weld that from the perimeter. YRMY 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docrock Posted October 14 Author Report Share Posted October 14 QEC that is a cool idea. I'm gonna try that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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