Electronic ignition distributor conversion

[Sniper]

Chucked up the body in my drill press to resize the housing.  1/2-13 bolt fits fine, that is a 10 inch one, way too long, lol.

 

Used a mill bastard file, sprayed down with soapy water to keep the aluminum from sticking.  150 grit sand paper for final polish,

 

Oh yeah, rubber band on the hold down clips so they don't whack you.

 

 

Edited September 26 by Sniper

[Sniper]

Gotta measure, used the old housing to set the caliper.  Measure at several spots since you are using a file.

 

 

Edited September 26 by Sniper

[Sniper]

Test fit in a spare block, this is the final exam, lol.  Sits flush.

 

 

[Sniper]

All assembled and done

 

 

[Sniper]

Couple of things to note. 

 

Clean the housing well before you assemble it, aluminum swarf will be all in it.

 

The screw that holds the timing plate to the bottom of the distributor is metric, M6 x 15 should be fine.  You will also need an M6 flat and lock washer.

 

The O ring that came on the /6 distributor housing shaft, forget about it.  I ended up using a fat O ring at the the junction of the plate and the housing, on the engine side to seal it.  I don't know the size, I just grabbed one that it from my O ring assortment kit.

 

The  pin that holds the lower collar onto the flatties shaft is peened in place on both ends.  It is not a roll pin  I ended up using my Dremel with a carbide burr to eat the peen off then I drilled it out with an 1/8" bit.  Prised the remaining bits of the pin out and reused the flatty's lower collar.  I used a 3/16 roll pin to re-install it.  I had two lengths in my roll pin assortment, too short and too long, so I used too long and trimmed it with the dremel once installed.  You will want an assortment of 1/2" ID shims to shim the vertical slop out of this setup.  You want a hair of play, no more than you had before you played mix and match, but some of my flatty shims were not usable and that left a lot of slop, fortunately, I had shims on hand. 

 

Do not forget to check and set the reluctor to pickup gap, 0.008" is the spec using a brass feeler gauge, or you can double up a dollar and that is close enough, 0.0075".  Make sure the reluctor and pickup are parallel to each other, you can bend the reluctor bracket to fix that.

 

Grease the moving parts, especially the mechanical advance, clean off the old stuff first, lol.  I couldn't find anything in the FSM about what to use, So I went with a high temp wheel bearing grease.  I am not talking about the distributor cam lube here.  That is no longer needed.

 

 

 

 

 

[grea235]

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

Couple of things to note. 

 

Clean the housing well before you assemble it, aluminum swarf will be all in it.

 

The screw that holds the timing plate to the bottom of the distributor is metric, M6 x 15 should be fine.  You will also need an M6 flat and lock washer.

 

The O ring that came on the /6 distributor housing shaft, forget about it.  I ended up using a fat O ring at the the junction of the plate and the housing, on the engine side to seal it.  I don't know the size, I just grabbed one that it from my O ring assortment kit.

 

The  pin that holds the lower collar onto the flatties shaft is peened in place on both ends.  It is not a roll pin  I ended up using my Dremel with a carbide burr to eat the peen off then I drilled it out with an 1/8" bit.  Prised the remaining bits of the pin out and reused the flatty's lower collar.  I used a 3/16 roll pin to re-install it.  I had two lengths in my roll pin assortment, too short and too long, so I used too long and trimmed it with the dremel once installed.  You will want an assortment of 1/2" ID shims to shim the vertical slop out of this setup.  You want a hair of play, no more than you had before you played mix and match, but some of my flatty shims were not usable and that left a lot of slop, fortunately, I had shims on hand. 

 

Do not forget to check and set the reluctor to pickup gap, 0.008" is the spec using a brass feeler gauge, or you can double up a dollar and that is close enough, 0.0075".  Make sure the reluctor and pickup are parallel to each other, you can bend the reluctor bracket to fix that.

 

Grease the moving parts, especially the mechanical advance, clean off the old stuff first, lol.  I couldn't find anything in the FSM about what to use, So I went with a high temp wheel bearing grease.  I am not talking about the distributor cam lube here.  That is no longer needed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I appreciate this info.  I'm planning on doing this soon.

[Los_Control]

There is a lot of useful information here on the /6 distributor.

I ordered a used one last Thursday and it was delivered Saturday .... YAY for fast service! ..... Now if only they would do it right 

 

I used for my search terms 1978 225 6 cylinder. .... I talked to the man on the phone and told him what I was looking for.

Electronic distributor that was carburetor and  not computer controlled. ..... I offered the carpart.com part # he said he already had it.

This is what he sent me.

 

Dual pickup with no vacuum advance. ..... These were sold in the 80's and I assume a computer to control the timing?

Also it is missing one of the spring clips, a corner of the case was chipped off and allows the clip to fall out .... I never received the clip either .... is worthless.

 

With no vacuum advance, am I correct in thinking it is computer controlled timing and I can not use this?

I have to call them tomorrow to see if I can get the correct one without missing pieces .... just trying to figure out exactly what they sent me.

[Dartgame]

Los - that appears to be a lean burn dizzy. Not useful for the conversion. Maybe Sniper can use it?

[Los_Control]

2 hours ago, Dartgame said:

Los - that appears to be a lean burn dizzy. Not useful for the conversion. Maybe Sniper can use it?

Good idea to pawn it off on him  

 

I'm guessing no, might not work for him either.

 

They sent it missing a clip, just a tiny little corner of the Boss that holds the clip in place was chipped and the clip fell out and disappeared.

A guy would have to have a spare clip for it to even be usable.

 

It is a dual pickup ..... is that like high performance dual points in the past years? ..... I have no clue what the purpose was.

Rockauto does sell the dual pickup coil for $28 but no dual ICM (ignition control module) to run the dual pickup system ..... I'm sure it is available somewhere ... just not popular.

 

Then more importantly, is the actual shaft and how rotor connects ..... @Sniper would know more about it then me.

It appears the the pickup plate will need to be removed and a set screw on the side holds it on.

 

I dunno, I did call the owner of the wrecking yard today and talked to him .... He was trying to tell me that Mopar did not make a /6 distributor with vacuum advance and electronic ignition.

 

I then told him he falsely advertised a 1980's computer controlled distributor to fit a 1970's vehicle

 

He told me he had been racing Mopar engines for 32 years and no such animal was made

 

I then said the swap has been done for over 20 years by 100's of people .... they do make it

 

He offered to refund my $$ if I spend another $10 to send it back ..... I said I would rather have him search his yard again and see if he can find the correct one ... he is also searching his neighboring yards for the correct distributor.

 

I'm searching the other yards on carpart.com and may just call this a bust and eat the $$ spent .... I have little hope the guy will spend time and make it right.

If @sniper thinks he can use it, he can have it.

 

 

[Sniper]

56 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

It is a dual pickup ..... is that like high performance dual points in the past years? ..... I have no clue what the purpose was.

Rockauto does sell the dual pickup coil for $28 but no dual ICM (ignition control module) to run the dual pickup system ..... I'm sure it is available somewhere ... just not popular.

 

Mopar called it Lean Burn.  At RockAuto they call it an engine control module.  It also controls the carb.  Search BSE EM172 at rockauto to see what one looks like.

 

58 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

Then more importantly, is the actual shaft and how rotor connects ..... @Sniper would know more about it then me.

It appears the the pickup plate will need to be removed and a set screw on the side holds it on.

 

I have not dug that far into the one I have,

 

59 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

I dunno, I did call the owner of the wrecking yard today and talked to him .... He was trying to tell me that Mopar did not make a /6 distributor with vacuum advance and electronic ignition.

 

Gee, I have one, well had now that's it's been converted,  Rock auto lists three remans and a new option for them.  Even more on Amazon.

 

1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

He told me he had been racing Mopar engines for 32 years and no such animal was made

 

Was he racing slant 6's?

 

Sounds like a real butt to me.  Wallowing in 32 years of ignorance.

 

[Los_Control]

11 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Was he racing slant 6's?

 

Sounds like a real butt to me.  Wallowing in 32 years of ignorance.

Yeah I told him I was not interested in a pissing match to see who could piss further.

 

I guess if I spend $$ shipping back to him he will reimburse the $35 I spent for it .....just a waste of time because of shipping both ways.

 

I was thinking a real old fashioned distributor I could rebuild, would eliminate possible issues of aftermarket distributors being sold as replacements and not suitable for conversion.

 

So I'm off to search again tomorrow for a original used one .... time will tell what happens.

[kencombs]

ebay.    ypu can see a pic..   full money back warranty from ebay if not as described .   that's where mine came from.    just be sure to search for the right years  

 

and look up the right yets on rock auto.

[Los_Control]

Was kind of a hilarious search today .... first 3 I called either went out of business or would not answer the phone .... one place the phone # listed was now selling some sort of medicare insurance supplements.

 

One yard in Arizona had it listed and called them, uh no thats not for sale ..... KK, is listed on carpart.com for sale.

Well, I have a race car and that is my backup distributor if I need it .... It is listed in inventory so I can find it when I need it, but not for sale.

 

The next place had one, wanted almost $40 for shipping .... I passed

Then I found a yard in Florida that has a few of them, They refuse to sell without first sending pictures of the item .... they close at 4 and was already after 3, she said would send photos in the morning. She says shipping will be under $20 .... So I think I found what am looking for .... will know more tomorrow.

 

My intent is not to run this thread off the rails .... I was really confused early on when there was discussion on the lean burn distributor .... I had no clue.

So I spent my $50 and learned what a lean burn is ..... hope this info will add to the thread. .... Be informed when searching for a suitable donor.

 

Searching online is not always ideal either .... seems buying after market new distributors is not ideal .... who is to say a rebuilt distributor would not be a aftermarket rebuilt?

 

Only thing I can add here, be careful when searching for a suitable donor.

 

 

[kencombs]

Well, you can ignore my advice above.   I just searched ebay, NO used slant six distributors of the right vintage available right now.  A few rebuilt ones though.

 

**but several like the one you bought.

Edited October 1 by kencombs

[Los_Control]

She aint pretty, but she is all mine  

 

Actually have the correct dizzy for the conversion. No chance to work on it yet, too busy with other projects .... I have to clean up and put things away just to get room to work on it.

 

One thing I have not seen others talk about is wiring. ..... As far as I know, just need a ignition control module and wire it up to power off the ignition switch .... not expecting it to be difficult .... just wondering if anything else is suggested.

 

On 10/1/2024 at 6:44 PM, kencombs said:

I just searched ebay, NO used slant six distributors of the right vintage available right now.

Now that I have mine, A1A Auto parts Inc. located in Lakeland FL (863) 646-5785 Talk to Melisa, she is sweet 

They had 3, I bought 1 so 2 more available .... $35 + shipping.

[MBSoPaB]

For those of us following along with Sniper's dizzy upgrade and needing a refresher on wiring, I urge you seek out Dave78chieftain webpage.  Whether it be wiring up a module on a motorhome or a flathead six, the principles are the same.  Lots of good tidbits for us to review.

 

And illustrations, shamelessly stolen from Dave's website page (because they are simple, And get the job done).

 

MBSoPaB 

Edited October 9 by MBSoPaB
Edited a misspelling.

[Sniper]

Assuming you're going with the Mopar ECU that's a good diagram. I I am going with an HEI module myself.

[kencombs]

2 hours ago, Sniper said:

Assuming you're going with the Mopar ECU that's a good diagram. I I am going with an HEI module myself.

Me too!  Simpler and proven, reliable design.

[Sniper]

I don't have a problem with the old Mopar ECU setup. The problem I have with it is finding a quality ECU these days. It seems the main power transistor they used to use is no longer made in the US and the overseas copies are very poorly done.

[Los_Control]

Thanks for the diagrams @MBSoPaB I will be brutally honest here .... When they make a wiring diagram that flashes like Krusty the clown made them .... I'm not interested in looking at them.

 

Also their other diagrams are available on the internet and will go there to look at them .... not on the website you suggest.

 

I think I will call Melisa tomorrow and see if they survived the hurricane OK, then ask if they have any of the original ICM/ECM for sale and maybe pick up a couple if they do.

 

Good used parts are often better then whats available today. ..... Sigh ,,,, I'm doing the conversion to get away from cheap offshore parts .... all ya all is not being very  proactive.

[Los_Control]

On 10/9/2024 at 10:59 AM, Sniper said:

Assuming you're going with the Mopar ECU that's a good diagram. I I am going with an HEI module myself.

 

On 10/9/2024 at 1:46 PM, kencombs said:

Me too!  Simpler and proven, reliable design.

OK, now you have me interested ... I have been planning to go with the ECU ... Ignition control module. In fact I was going to order one yesterday .... I have all the parts for final distributor assembly now.

 

The ECU is reasonably priced, but also need a electrical pigtail to connect to the ECU .... I thought I was going to have a heart attack.

RockAuto wants $85 for the pig tail, so I check Amazon, they want $130 🥵

 

So now I'm curious what this HEI is you speak of to work with this conversion?

[Dartgame]

You use a 4 spade connector GM HEI module. For details take a look at this link - https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

 

I used this system and it works very well !

Edited December 18 by Dartgame

[Sniper]

5 hours ago, Los_Control said:

I thought I was going to have a heart attack.

 

Yeah, sometimes the decision is made for you.

 

One of the reasons I went HEI was cost, not to mention it is a superior design.

[kencombs]

Here is a good article on the whys and hows.

https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

[Young Ed]

I also saw where someone melted the goo out of the back of the Mopar unit and used it to hide the GM one.