Adding fuse block.

[rcl700]

CamScanner 08-06-2023 13.27.pdf

Need help understanding where in this diagram I install new fuse pannel. I plan to rewire the car but need clarity on were to make main power connections and connections to ammp meter. The kit I purchased has fused links but I'm not sure where these should be installed. 

6v pos ground car, all original.

[rcl700]

5 minutes ago, rcl700 said:

CamScanner 08-06-2023 13.27.pdf 254.08 kB · 0 downloads

Need help understanding where in this diagram I install new fuse pannel. I plan to rewire the car but need clarity on were to make main power connections and connections to ammp meter. The kit I purchased has fused links but I'm not sure where these should be installed. 

6v pos ground car, all original.

 

[Sniper]

It would depend on if the fuse panel is going to be a constant supply or a switched supply.

 

Constant supply, at the battery side of the stater solenoid, thru a fusible link.

 

Switched supply, at the ignition switch, thru a fusible link, where the red wire is connected to the switch.

[Plymouthy Adams]

to keep it simple, power the fuse box if switched circuits through a power up relay...clean neat and easy.

[wagoneer]

On 8/6/2023 at 1:30 PM, rcl700 said:

CamScanner 08-06-2023 13.27.pdf 254.08 kB · 5 downloads

Need help understanding where in this diagram I install new fuse pannel. I plan to rewire the car but need clarity on were to make main power connections and connections to ammp meter. The kit I purchased has fused links but I'm not sure where these should be installed. 

6v pos ground car, all original.

Which kit did you buy for a 6v fuse box system? I required my car mostly, and I really think a fuse box would have simplified the wiring instead of piling it all onto the ammeter , main light switch, or the fuel gauge .

 

 

[D35 Torpedo]

I rewired my car with a scratch made harness. I put the fuses on the drivers side kick panel, as close to the gauge cluster as possible. All the ciruits that come off the ammeter go through the fuse panel. Headlights are protected by the breaker. Fuel gauge, dome light, tail lights, signals, wipers, and lighter all have a fuse. I also upsized all the wiring. 

Edited August 9, 2023 by D35 Torpedo

[Bob Ritter]

I can help with this project, I just wired my 1948 Plymouth convertible from scratch using a fuse box. I can show where to mount the fuse box and how to run the wiring. The first thing you need to do is order a car color diagram of the wiring, (11x17) that will come laminated and runs $18.95. (www.ClassicCarWiring.com)(888-606-5319). It will take me a little time to go through all my receipts and take some pictures.

Bob Ritter rritter2@ca.rr.com

818-792-7710

[Wood and Steel]

16 hours ago, Bob Ritter said:

I can help with this project, I just wired my 1948 Plymouth convertible from scratch using a fuse box. I can show where to mount the fuse box and how to run the wiring. The first thing you need to do is order a car color diagram of the wiring, (11x17) that will come laminated and runs $18.95. (www.ClassicCarWiring.com)(888-606-5319). It will take me a little time to go through all my receipts and take some pictures.

Bob Ritter rritter2@ca.rr.com

818-792-7710

 

I would be interested in this too. My '51 is pretty crispy these days.

[Sniper]

25 minutes ago, Wood and Steel said:

The first thing you need to do is order a car color diagram of the wiring, (11x17) that will come laminated and runs $18.95.

 

Be better off spending that money on the FSM.  You can get the FSM, parts manual and other literature on CD from Rock Auto for a few dollars more.

[D35 Torpedo]

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

 

Be better off spending that money on the FSM.  You can get the FSM, parts manual and other literature on CD from Rock Auto for a few dollars more.

I figured out the factory wiring routes with google images. A FSM would've been nice. All you really need is a wiring diagram. My car came gutted already and a diagram in the paperwork. I suggest over sizing every wire. Soldering all the connectors and resocketing all the lights. And to keep it looking stock, put the fuse panel beside the ebrake under the dash. The light sockets that are available are for 12 volt. You want to get rid of the 18g and get 14g as close to the bulb as possible. It took me a week to do my car. 

[Eneto-55]

1 hour ago, D35 Torpedo said:

I figured out the factory wiring routes with google images. A FSM would've been nice. All you really need is a wiring diagram. My car came gutted already and a diagram in the paperwork. I suggest over sizing every wire. Soldering all the connectors and resocketing all the lights. And to keep it looking stock, put the fuse panel beside the ebrake under the dash. The light sockets that are available are for 12 volt. You want to get rid of the 18g and get 14g as close to the bulb as possible. It took me a week to do my car. 

Replying partly so as to "follow" this discussion.

But I don't think there are any 18 AWG wires in the stock P15 wiring harness.  Pretty sure 16 AWG is the smallest gauge.

[Bob Ritter]

I agree the best place to bring the hot lead to the fuse box is the starter solenoid, my fuse box is a 10 fuse circuit and five are always hot and five are only hot when the ignition is on. Take your time and plan it! don't be in a hurry.

[Sniper]

2 hours ago, Bob Ritter said:

I agree the best place to bring the hot lead to the fuse box is the starter solenoid, my fuse box is a 10 fuse circuit and five are always hot and five are only hot when the ignition is on. Take your time and plan it! don't be in a hurry.

I got to thinking about my suggestion for that connection  I have a voltmeter in my aftermarket gauge cluster so I can get away with using the solenoid as a pickup point.  But, if you are going to use the stock ammeter, then you need to use the generator side of the ammeter as the connection point.

 

There are no 12v sockets for the lights, I am still using the stock sockets in my 51, just put 12 bulbs in them.  Generally, 1157 for the taillights and 1156 for the front turn signals.  I don't remember any of the other bulb numbers though, a good parts store can get a 12v version of any 6v bulb.  I did put new contacts in when I ran new wires.

 

Also, 12v circuits use half the current a 6v one would.  So you do not need to upsize the wiring and 6v wiring is overkill for 12v, if you are going that way,

[wagoneer]

On 8/9/2023 at 12:41 AM, D35 Torpedo said:

I rewired my car with a scratch made harness. I put the fuses on the drivers side kick panel, as close to the gauge cluster as possible. All the ciruits that come off the ammeter go through the fuse panel. Headlights are protected by the breaker. Fuel gauge, dome light, tail lights, signals, wipers, and lighter all have a fuse. I also upsized all the wiring. 

I rewired mine too and also upsides. Upsizing turned painful as I had to find the right size fittings for the larger gauge wiring. The impetus was adding  a 60 amp alternator.

 

i bet that cleaned up the wiring behind your gauge cluster and radio . What a mess . For being so “simple” it’s a pain to screw in those nuts behind the gauges and get them all tight.

 

 

whwre did you get your 6v fuses from? Or I guess taking from another thread that higher voltage is okay just the amps count.

[D35 Torpedo]

2 hours ago, wagoneer said:

I rewired mine too and also upsides. Upsizing turned painful as I had to find the right size fittings for the larger gauge wiring. The impetus was adding  a 60 amp alternator.

 

i bet that cleaned up the wiring behind your gauge cluster and radio . What a mess . For being so “simple” it’s a pain to screw in those nuts behind the gauges and get them all tight.

 

 

whwre did you get your 6v fuses from? Or I guess taking from another thread that higher voltage is okay just the amps count.

My fuse panel is all glass tube fuses. Volt ratings dont really aply to fuses. However there is a max rating. Usually 250 volt.

 

8 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

Replying partly so as to "follow" this discussion.

But I don't think there are any 18 AWG wires in the stock P15 wiring harness.  Pretty sure 16 AWG is the smallest gauge.

What I am saying is that everything you can buy is for twelve volt. Hence the 18 gauge wires. It is a trick getting 14 gauge in there.

 

5 hours ago, Sniper said:

I got to thinking about my suggestion for that connection  I have a voltmeter in my aftermarket gauge cluster so I can get away with using the solenoid as a pickup point.  But, if you are going to use the stock ammeter, then you need to use the generator side of the ammeter as the connection point.

 

There are no 12v sockets for the lights, I am still using the stock sockets in my 51, just put 12 bulbs in them.  Generally, 1157 for the taillights and 1156 for the front turn signals.  I don't remember any of the other bulb numbers though, a good parts store can get a 12v version of any 6v bulb.  I did put new contacts in when I ran new wires.

 

Also, 12v circuits use half the current a 6v one would.  So you do not need to upsize the wiring and 6v wiring is overkill for 12v, if you are going that way,

My front park lights double is signals. So 1157s up front aswell...if its 12 volts.

[Eneto-55]

20 minutes ago, D35 Torpedo said:

What I am saying is that everything you can buy is for twelve volt. Hence the 18 gauge wires. It is a trick getting 14 gauge in there.

Oh, I see that I misunderstood you.  Re-reading it, I see that you were clear enough.  My error.

[D35 Torpedo]

1 minute ago, Eneto-55 said:

Oh, I see that I misunderstood you.  Re-reading it, I see that you were clear enough.  My error.

No worries. We do the best we can with only words. 

[rcl700]

On 8/10/2023 at 4:29 PM, Sniper said:

I got to thinking about my suggestion for that connection  I have a voltmeter in my aftermarket gauge cluster so I can get away with using the solenoid as a pickup point.  But, if you are going to use the stock ammeter, then you need to use the generator side of the ammeter as the connection point.

 

There are no 12v sockets for the lights, I am still using the stock sockets in my 51, just put 12 bulbs in them.  Generally, 1157 for the taillights and 1156 for the front turn signals.  I don't remember any of the other bulb numbers though, a good parts store can get a 12v version of any 6v bulb.  I did put new contacts in when I ran new wires.

 

Also, 12v circuits use half the current a 6v one would.  So you do not need to upsize the wiring and 6v wiring is overkill for 12v, if you are going that way,

Stock 48' 6v setup with generator. Does this look correct?

wiressetup plan.pdf

[wagoneer]

1 hour ago, rcl700 said:

Stock 48' 6v setup with generator. Does this look correct?

wiressetup plan.pdf 129.73 kB · 3 downloads

There is a ground from the left top post that connects in stock configurations to the b post on the voltage regulator. It’s a ground .
 

You have a solenoid post going to the negative terminal instead of positive ground/b terminal . 
 

my solenoid doesn’t turn unless I have this ground .

[Sniper]

I am running an alternator with a 12v negative ground conversion, so no idea how the generator and regulator setup should be for your application.

 

I would take advantage of this opportunity to clean up and tighten the ammeter connections, odds are they have never had that done and this is the #1 issue with ammeters.

 

13 hours ago, wagoneer said:

You have a solenoid post going to the negative terminal instead of positive ground/b terminal . 

 

In a 6v positive ground system none of the solenoid terminals is wired to ground.  The solenoid is grounded thru the mounting bracket.  There are three terminals on the stock solenoid.  Two big ones that connect to the battery negative post and the starter and a smaller one that is connects to the start button in that drawing, this is the one that energizes the solenoid.

 

[Bob Ritter]

On 8/9/2023 at 1:59 PM, Bob Ritter said:

I can help with this project, I just wired my 1948 Plymouth convertible from scratch using a fuse box. I can show where to mount the fuse box and how to run the wiring. The first thing you need to do is order a car color diagram of the wiring, (11x17) that will come laminated and runs $18.95. (www.ClassicCarWiring.com)(888-606-5319). It will take me a little time to go through all my receipts and take some pictures.

Bob Ritter rritter2@ca.rr.com

818-792-7710

How I wired my 1948 Plymouth convertible...

On the firewall on the engine side there is 1/2 inch ledge which I used to drilled a couple of 1/4 inch holes to mount the fuse box, this kind of hides bolts.

I used 1/4x2 inch Stoval bolts. I took the fuse box and centered it between the hole in the firewall where the wire goes out and the air vent bracket and used these measurements to drill the holes. I also removed the air vent bracket and drill a 3/4 hole to run the wire throw, using a rubber garment. I used the left kick panel to mount a six wire terminal to mount the park lights and turn signals. The fuse box I used came with 12-volt wiring, I changed the wiring using color coded braided wires. I also changed the wire terminal on the core support from a five to a six terminal, this I found at the Chevy store, the mounting holes match perfectly. In measuring I used a small rope because it can go throw area that are hard to measure. Always allow yourself a little extra wire because it is easier to cut than add to. I know that there are other ways to wire your car but this work best for me. I am working on sending the photos, it's knew to me, please be patient.

 

 

[Bob Ritter]

On 8/13/2023 at 3:33 PM, Bob Ritter said:

How I wired my 1948 Plymouth convertible...

On the firewall on the engine side there is 1/2 inch ledge which I used to drilled a couple of 1/4 inch holes to mount the fuse box, this kind of hides bolts.

I used 1/4x2 inch Stoval bolts. I took the fuse box and centered it between the hole in the firewall where the wire goes out and the air vent bracket and used these measurements to drill the holes. I also removed the air vent bracket and drill a 3/4 hole to run the wire throw, using a rubber garment. I used the left kick panel to mount a six wire terminal to mount the park lights and turn signals. The fuse box I used came with 12-volt wiring, I changed the wiring using color coded braided wires. I also changed the wire terminal on the core support from a five to a six terminal, this I found at the Chevy store, the mounting holes match perfectly. In measuring I used a small rope because it can go throw area that are hard to measure. Always allow yourself a little extra wire because it is easier to cut than add to. I know that there are other ways to wire your car but this work best for me. I am working on sending the photos, it's knew to me, please be patient.

 

 

 

[Bob Ritter]

On 8/13/2023 at 3:33 PM, Bob Ritter said:

How I wired my 1948 Plymouth convertible...

On the firewall on the engine side there is 1/2 inch ledge which I used to drilled a couple of 1/4 inch holes to mount the fuse box, this kind of hides bolts.

I used 1/4x2 inch Stoval bolts. I took the fuse box and centered it between the hole in the firewall where the wire goes out and the air vent bracket and used these measurements to drill the holes. I also removed the air vent bracket and drill a 3/4 hole to run the wire throw, using a rubber garment. I used the left kick panel to mount a six wire terminal to mount the park lights and turn signals. The fuse box I used came with 12-volt wiring, I changed the wiring using color coded braided wires. I also changed the wire terminal on the core support from a five to a six terminal, this I found at the Chevy store, the mounting holes match perfectly. In measuring I used a small rope because it can go throw area that are hard to measure. Always allow yourself a little extra wire because it is easier to cut than add to. I know that there are other ways to wire your car but this work best for me. I am working on sending the photos, it's knew to me, please be patient.

 

 

 

[D35 Torpedo]

This is my fuse panel. Picture is washed out with glare. But you get the idea. It looks like Bob and I had similar ideas.

[JerseyHarold]

I don't think this was mentioned, but I think I'd use a fusible link wire at the feed wires coming from the relay.  They would protect the last few inches of wiring that would otherwise be unprotected.   Mopar and others had this arrangement in the sixties and seventies.