Overdrive Installation

[Wood and Steel]

Hi everyone! I'm finally getting around to installing the R10 OD I got a year and a half ago, but I have a couple of questions on the locations of some of the parts. It was removed by the previous owner, so I didn't get to see how everything was mounted. I'm pretty sure I have everything but the bracket that holds the OD handle. I would love to see a picture of what one looks like, and where it was originally located on a '52. Even just a distance from the parking break would be handy.

 

I got all of the donor cars' electric components along with the OD, so through the process of elimination, I think I figured out what's what, but I wanted to make sure on a couple of things. I'm thinking this is the OD relay mounted at the top of the coil:

 

I'm pretty sure this is the kickdown switch, but I'm not sure where exactly it mounts. Near the carb, I believe, but a picture would really help.

 

And this last picture is on the tranny itself. I have no idea what this thing circled in red is. I'm not seeing it in the manuals I have. It's right next to the solenoid.

 

 

I've downloaded the manuals I could find for the R10, and I've scoured the forums as best I can. I think I have a pretty good idea on how to install it and wire everything up, but I never found a very good guide. Does one exist somewhere that I wasn't able to find? Are there any tips or gotcha's I might not be aware of?

 

Thanks!

 

[D35 Torpedo]

That is the reverse light switch I believe.

[Eneto-55]

4 hours ago, D35 Torpedo said:

That is the reverse light switch I believe.

Yes, D35 Torpedo is correct.  The P15 transmission didn't have this switch - there is just a boss on the transmission at that location.  Not sure when they started with the backup lights, but maybe by 53?  I have asked before, but would still like to know if all of the internals are the same in the older trannies, vs those that have the switch hole bored out.  (That is, could I have my P15 transmission drilled and tapped to accept the backup light switch?)

[Wood and Steel]

1 hour ago, Eneto-55 said:

 Not sure when they started with the backup lights, but maybe by 53?

 

That would make sense; the donar car was a '53.

[Sniper]

My 51, non-OD trans, has a backup light switch.

[D35 Torpedo]

5 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

I would still like to know if all of the internals are the same in the older trannies, vs those that have the switch hole bored out.  (That is, could I have my P15 transmission drilled and tapped to accept the backup light switch?)

The reverse light switch is triggered by the shift rod in the transmission. When you put it in reverse, the shift fork and rod slide over, if the hole was there, you would see the rod at that point. So I will say yes, you can drill and tap the hole. The differences in transmissions throught the years are minor. They designed your trans with a reverse switch in mind.

Edited July 22, 2023 by D35 Torpedo

[Eneto-55]

54 minutes ago, D35 Torpedo said:

The reverse light switch is triggered by the shift rod in the transmission. When you put it in reverse, the shift fork and rod slide over, if the hole was there, you would see the rod at that point. So I will say yes, you can drill and tap the hole. The differences in transmissions throught the years are minor. They designed your trans with a reverse switch in mind.

Thanks.  I thought so, since the boss is there on the side of the transmission.  So they must have already had a plan to start installing backup lights already when the P15 was in design stage, which would basically be pre 1942.  (I am assuming that the 42 had the same transmission case, but not really sure.  My 46 P15 was originally sold in November of 46, so not one of the first off of the line, but still early in terms of the whole P15 run.)

[Wood and Steel]

Sorry to ask another question before giving you time the answer the first few, but I meant to ask about oil too. I couldn't find any GL-1 locally (it seems that's what most people recommend, correct me if I'm wrong.), so I ordered it online and bought a cheap GL-5 80-90 to use until it comes in. Would using the GL-5 temporary cause any issues?

[Los_Control]

Just now, Wood and Steel said:

Sorry to ask another question before giving you time the answer the first few, but I meant to ask about oil too. I couldn't find any GL-1 locally (it seems that's what most people recommend, correct me if I'm wrong.), so I ordered it online and bought a cheap GL-5 80-90 to use until it comes in. Would using the GL-5 temporary cause any issues?

There was a recent long discussion here on the differences between GL-1 & GL-5 ....

I will say that you need to read the labels. My label states that it prevents the corrosion of copper & bronze bushings.

I understand that some may not say this.

 

My understanding is, GL-5 is a modern oil superior to GL-1 ..... Modern vehicles may or may not have soft copper or bronze in them & the oil does not need to protect these softer metals. ..... My oil does. I'm using 85-140 super tech from walmart.

 

When you research oils, the lower number from 80-90 ..... is how thick the oil is when it is cold, the higher number 90 is related to how well it performs when hot.

So my oil 85-140 GL-5 with MT1 that protects soft metal .... In my mind is far superior to the 80-90 GL-1.

 

Just remember that in the early days of GL-5 it was not treated with MT1 to protect the soft metals.

I only assume that today most of them do, so you need to read the label to verify it protects soft metals.

 

Many will say to not use GL-5 oils in our vehicles for that reason. At one time they were 100% correct.

The oil companies saw the problem, corrected it .... today it is OK ...... If you read the label!

[Sniper]

5 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

so you need to read the label to verify it protects soft metals.

 

5 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

If you read the label!

 

Exactly, which is why I hesitated to say use them in that thread you mentioned.  You know someone isn't going to read the label, get the wrong stuff and lay blame elsewhere.

 

GL-1 not a problem.  As for GL-5 being better, well my trans lived 70 years with GL-1, guess it may not be as good as GL-5, but it's good enough and then some, imo.  Either one if fine, but read the label lol.

[Los_Control]

GL-1 is certainly good enough for our old cars.

Since it is difficult to find at most local auto parts stores ...... GL-5 will be fine even if we do not call it better ...... As long as it protects soft metals.

[DJ194950]

Napa seems to carry the GL-1 again after listing it but labeled as not available for several years.  Gallon bottles.

 

My local store has it again, But now the prices is about twice it was before.

 

Maybe try your local Napa store to order if not in their stock?

 

Otherwise it was recently still available for big $$ here--

 

https://fifthaveinternetgarage.com/images/images/bkg.png

 

DJ

Edited July 23, 2023 by DJ194950
add 5th ave. info

[D35 Torpedo]

I use synchromesh. It is a GL3

[rallyace]

As far as the OD handle mounting point is concerned. Take a look at the lower edge of the dash just to the left of the steering column. My 51 had the two tapped holes there and the handle that came with my OD fit perfectly. If my memory serves me correctly the holes were tapped #10-24 but don' hold me to it.

[Young Ed]

That's my install thread. Crazy it's just shy of 10y ago!

 

 

[Wood and Steel]

I got it all installed, and everything is working great! Man, what a difference it makes. especially on the highway. I was in a rush to get it in before a trip, so I need to go back and polish it up a little. Right now, the OD handle is just twist tied to the steering column, and the kickdown switch is dangling inside the firewall by the heater controls so I can activate it manually.

 

Can I see some pictures of how the kickdown switch mounts, and what the bracket that holds the OD handle under the dash looks like?

 

Thanks!

[Dartgame]

The bracket under the edge of the dash is a simple 90 degree sheet metal bend. If you look under the edge of your dash on the drivers side of the steering column you will see (most likely) a pair of holes about 1- 1.5 inches apart, thats where the bracket attaches.

[Young Ed]

Doesn't everyone have a spare hanging on the wall???