1948 Chrysler Charging Issues

[colbs]

I'm back with more burning questions! On Baby (1948 Royal) I've had problems with killing batteries to the point they dead cell on me (about 5 or 6 in a rolling year) I have rebuilt the generator doing the brushes and undercutting the mica. When I put the brushes in I cleaned the armature with 180 grit sand paper (all I had and idk what 00 sand paper is tbh) and then I also turned the generator with a drill to cut the brushes down til they sat even on the armature. I installed everything and fired her off and the ammeter still shows discharge not a full notch but enough that itll kill the battery if I run the car too long (based on past experience), I went to the shop manual I have and checked the voltage regulator outputs and once I found one that was out I figured thats the problem and have ordered a nos one. I did check the air gaps and point gaps and set them proper on the VR and filed the points prior to gapping them, I also noticed that my generator turns against the long edge of the brushes instead of the short end, essentially my belt turns towards the drivers side but it seems like my generator is set up to be turned counter clockwise from the front of the vehicle but turns clockwise, am I overthinking the brushes and generator in Baby and have I missed anything in the charging system (with the exception of testing the ammeter) or is there another reason the car is killing batteries whilst running?

[joecoozie]

Have you polarized the generator?

I believe you just flash the BAT to GEN posts on the regulator - you should see spark(s). If I am wrong someone will correct me.

[Plymouthy Adams]

at no time have you stated any current or voltage reading with your testing.....

[colbs]

@joecoozieyes I have set polarity bit arcing the armature and battery wires together with a jumper lead.

 

@Plymouthy Adams I can't remember the reading exactly, the tests that should've said zero or practically zero were I do know the battery and armature voltage was supposed to read .12 (according to my book all my voltage is less that 1) and the test showed a range from like .67 to 1 point something and then settled back down but was over .12 I can't remember now what that was though I did the test Sunday afternoon and can't test them again until tomorrow when I'll work off and I can give accurate numbers as I read them

 

[Dave72dt]

Does the ammeter show a discharge with both wires off the generator?  Does the ammeter swing to discharge when cranking, key off, or headlights are turned on?

[colbs]

I do not know but I will give that a shot, and yes it shows discharge while starting, and while running, if you turn on the headlights it tanks the ammeter

[Dave72dt]

that tells you that the ammeter is connected correctly, at least by polarity.  Now start checking voltage, voltage drop and wire continuity.  Dig out your wiring diagram and start following the charge circuit.  You may want to disconnect the light switch from it's power feed.  Your switch may have some leakage to ground.

[colbs]

Which light switch? Main lighting, Panel Lights, Map lights, door switch or B pillar light switch? Also how do I make a test light for all the various checks the book claims you can use it for? If someone knows how to do that

[nonstop]

Have you tried full fielding the generator to make sure it is capable of putting out?  It sounds like you might be on the right track with the voltage regulator though…..

[colbs]

@nonstop when you say full fielding what do you mean exactly? Unhooking one side of the battery whilst the car is running or unhooking the field side on either the generator or VR?

[Sam Buchanan]

9 hours ago, colbs said:

Which light switch? Main lighting, Panel Lights, Map lights, door switch or B pillar light switch? Also how do I make a test light for all the various checks the book claims you can use it for? If someone knows how to do that

 

Available nearly anywhere but here is one:

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-12-volt-circuit-tester-4288.html

 

[nonstop]

By full fielding, I mean grounding the F terminal on the generator.  I just had the opposite problem on my 1954 Dodge.  It was pegging the needle on the charge side f my ammeter.  It turned out that the F stud was grounding out and my generator was putting out max charge.  While waiting for the new voltage regulator, it would be a simple test to run, just do it shortly to avoid damaging anything.  You can also check for continuity in the field wire between the voltage regulator and the generator.  Make sure there are no breaks in the wire.

[Dave72dt]

All your lights feed through the headlight switch  1 wire feeds power to it.  Disconnect that wire and tape it up.  Pulling the fuse may not be enough if it's leaking power to ground.  Any light socket with a pigtail can be used as a test light.  You'll need a VOM to read actual voltage, voltage drop, resistance in wires.

[colbs]

7 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Available nearly anywhere but here is one:

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-12-volt-circuit-tester-4288.html

 

Tbh I have one of those I legit meant the one they talk about in the manual with a 6v bulb in a socket, it can be used for setting timing bc it has alligator clips instead of a probe

[colbs]

5 hours ago, nonstop said:

By full fielding, I mean grounding the F terminal on the generator.  I just had the opposite problem on my 1954 Dodge.  It was pegging the needle on the charge side f my ammeter.  It turned out that the F stud was grounding out and my generator was putting out max charge.  While waiting for the new voltage regulator, it would be a simple test to run, just do it shortly to avoid damaging anything.  You can also check for continuity in the field wire between the voltage regulator and the generator.  Make sure there are no breaks in the wire.

I will give this a shot and see! Would you use a jumper wire hooked from the field side of the regulator?

[colbs]

@Dave72dt I will unhook the power feed to the main lighting switch and hook up the battery and see how the ammeter reacts while running

[Dave72dt]

28 minutes ago, colbs said:

I will give this a shot and see! Would you use a jumper wire hooked from the field side of the regulator?

Screwdriver from F post on gen to gen case is an easy method.  Does the ammeter go back to O when battery unhooked and engine off?  Does it show discharge when battery hooked up and nothing turned on?

 

How tight is the belt?

Edited March 1, 2023 by Dave72dt

[Sam Buchanan]

3 hours ago, colbs said:

Tbh I have one of those I legit meant the one they talk about in the manual with a 6v bulb in a socket, it can be used for setting timing bc it has alligator clips instead of a probe

The Harbor Fright light works great for setting timing……..it is just a bulb in a socket.

 

 Use a little creativity for attaching the leads.  ?

[colbs]

8 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

Screwdriver from F post on gen to gen case is an easy method.  Does the ammeter go back to O when battery unhooked and engine off?  Does it show discharge when battery hooked up and nothing turned on?

 

How tight is the belt?

Yes ammeter returns to 0 when switch is off, as well as if the batter is unhooked. I didn't work on it today but my new voltage regulator showed up today so weather permitting it is going on tomorrow it was packaged in 52 and sealed with wax ?. The belt it at the max of the generator but only has the 1/4 but im having a hard time matching up a belt at the parts house (do you have modern part number for one?) so I may have to order one thru AMS but forgot when I ordered VR. Also the ammeter never drops all the way to -35 when the battery has died out completely either

[colbs]

4 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

The Harbor Fright light works great for setting timing……..it is just a bulb in a socket.

 

 Use a little creativity for attaching the leads.  ?

And now I feel dumb ?

[MarcDeSoto]

All I do is attach an alligator lead to the probe, and now it has alligator leads on both sides.  

[D35 Torpedo]

Did you resolve this? The headlights shouldnt tank the ammeter. Sounds like a draw. Test headlight wiring to ground with an ohm meter. 

[colbs]

@D35 Torpedo no unfortunately i did not resolve this issue and unfortunately i am not able to at this time, i got the car running and decided to chance the battery and drive it to my place from my parents (around 10-12 miles, and maybe a 15 minute ride mostly highway) and when I got it here and parked I popped the hood to check everything and my battery had shifted and was on the belt and had just started leaking fluid, so now until I replace the battery or (God forbid I do something like this ? ) I repare the battery and try it out (knowing me I'll try reparing the battery first bc why not)

[joecoozie]

Not to ask a stupid question but....

Don't you have a battery hold down????

[colbs]

Not a stupid question, no I do not have a battery hold down, the box it sits on it almost rusted away and I will be building a box for it, but I have had the car some 2019 and this is the first time the battery has ever moved itself, I think the length of the battery cable was the culprit, it's a little taught. I will be replacing the battery shelf and the shirt cable I'm just only able to do so many parts at a time and I will have to by my cable by the foot this time bc I bought the longest advanced had in 2AWG battery cables