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Posted

I have a 1953 B4B 1/2 ton . When I bought the truck the

Bed was 1/2" steel an 3" C channel for cross members all

Welded as one piece to the frame. The bed is a low side

Im putting it back stock an my 

Problem is if I set the bed on the cross members my wood would have to be 3" thick no good. If I put the cross members inside well the wood fits great but now there is no place to attach the bedsides . Any help the high side bed is 

Different from the low sides.

 

Posted

The bed sides get bolted down to the outer boards. The boards are clamped down to the cross members via the bed strips. And then the whole bed is bolted down to the frame with a few longer bolts through the wood and cross members. 

Posted

I wonder what would be different other then the height of the sides?  Seems some photos of what you have would help.

 

I have a 1949 low side & currently working on the bed.  From your post it sounds like yours has been modified.

Is the L shaped slat attached to the bed side in original position?

M 1949 low side bed the cross members are 2" tall, 5 in total while one is narrower then the rest.

 

 

0516221049.jpg.c77430dadf092d50ad1f15a1372fd264.jpg

 

The slat on the side of the bed is right at 3"  ..... There is a thin 3/16" rubber washer between frame & 2" tall cross member + 3/4" wood floor = 2 7/8".

1008221547a_Burst01.jpg.dca238a6cb4ff27f4e3f9b9e79b38cd5.jpg

 

This is how the math works on my original bed.

With your modified cross members you may need to adjust the slat height on the bed sides?

Posted (edited)

Since my B4B, long bed, high side is on a lift, I took some photos from the bottom. 
 

When I did my truck, the bed was off and on a roll around cart I made that could be sat under and did not have a table top.  It made it easier to work under- I made my son do that.
 

The two outer boards did not fit well because time and too much load had slightly bowed the sides out - had to use ratchet straps to squeeze it all back together.  Then I spaced the remaining boards on top, put the bed strips in place, and we bolted it down. After that, 4 of us lifted it and put it in place.  There is a “pad” under each bolt that holds the bed to the frame - I cut squares off a mudflap I found on the road for them. 
 

A warning - a B4B’s front, DS mounting hole is a bit off set to the left. It is an L shaped bracket welded to the frame with the hole. The boards I bought already had the holes, and it was not drilled for a B4B. The hole they drilled does line up with a corresponding mounting hole, but you have to abuse your arm and cuss a lot, preferably in multiple languages, to get it. That is what I did. 
67AC6B6E-CD24-4ADA-B43A-34AE42344434.jpeg.785f87fdf849b16051d4ec47407b82d9.jpeg

Edited by Bobacuda
Typos
Posted

Those bed rails across the bottom of the bed are available aftermarket. And they were not all the same. 
 

Mar-k and Horkey’s are the two vendors I used. 

Posted
Just now, Bobacuda said:

Those bed rails across the bottom of the bed are available aftermarket. And they were not all the same. 
 

Mar-k and Horkey’s are the two vendors I used. 

Here is the key ..... how accurate is @Wayaroundit2wanting to restore the bed back to original?

I just assume the existing cross members could be used .... making modification of the  side slats on the bed sides.

Would look original while using home made parts.

 

I have no idea how a 1953 bed is created with what dimensions.

I have a 1949 low side & also a utility trailer with high sides. I just checked & both look the same underneath .... Maybe 1953 they changed?

Posted
40 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

I have a 1949 low side & also a utility trailer with high sides. I just checked & both look the same underneath .... Maybe 1953 they changed?

I doubt it is different as my 56 low side looks the same.   It is almost ready for paint!   Floor boards  Walnut!) are ready for a coat of urethane clear to protect the epoxy finish from the suns rays.   First sub-assembly to get to that stage.  Well, the cab is in the same state, last coat of primer and final sanding needed.  Then the doors, fenders, hood in that order.  Then bolt it all together.   door go on, the rest  After the engine is done and dual exhaust fab built.

Posted

Go to the Mar-K website and look at the bed parts. You can also call and ask them, they have knowledgeable staff. 

Posted

Thank you all for your replys. I had to run a strip of angle iron

The length of the bed to lower 

It an the angle iron rests on the cross members . The low sides

Have a 90° bend on the bottom an wont sit on the members. An the side skirts bolt to the 90° lip. The high side skirt are part of the bed .

Again thank you all for the response!

Posted

Sounds like you got it figured out. I was not sure what would help you.

On 10/10/2022 at 1:43 PM, Los_Control said:

This is how the math works on my original bed.

With your modified cross members you may need to adjust the slat height on the bed sides?

The angle iron on the side I called it a "slat" hides the cross members, then the skirts hang down to cover the frame of the truck.

So with your modified cross member height I thought you may need to adjust the height on the bed sides ..... sounds like previous owner removed them.

1018221215.jpg.60f062ddfb1dc5089125567a70c955fa.jpg

 The correct term is shovel strips. You will also want them. You can get them from many different suppliers. The ones on the bed sides are simply the side strips that come with the kit.

1018221229.jpg.82b300a74edc970fc52e02d067516149.jpg

 

You can see mine are in pretty sad shape & should be replaced. I have to replace the ones on the bed sides. ..... I will use angle iron & fix/use the strips I have.

My only point is, angle iron is fine I will use it. .... Next week if you order shovel strips, you will have the side strips also.

 

 

Posted

Midwest Military is the ONLY vendor for proper bed/shovel strips and carry the flat and angle ones for the bed sides.  All depends on what you want your build to be, if you are on a budget and aren't a purist, the Horkey or Mar-K strips would work as well (Ford/Chevy design) and might be cheaper, but have a different profile.

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