Brake Bleeding

[Sniper]

The Motive site is incoherence on this, lol.  In one spot they say it's 1 1/8", in another they say it's 1 1/4".

 

So I bought it and will report.  Oddly enough when I went to buy it shipping times for the kit were several weeks out, but if I I bought the reservoir and adapter separate it not only shipped immediately, but the cost was less than the kit, lol.  I have them in hand.  If I like it I'll probably buy the adapter for the Cuda.

 

I though about making my own but I cold not find a less expensive source for 1 1/4-18 UNEF plug or bolt that could be used. 

 

 

[Veemoney]

Be nice if it shows up and fits as it should, especially at the cheaper price.

 

Not sure if this is the one your thinking about for the Cuda. I purchased the motive 1105 to use on the 34 I have set-up with a dual master cylinder under the floor. Made these brackets to help it tighten down straight and it worked great, no leaks first time set-up & using it. I plan to use it on the Charger to do the fluid change next. Good Luck

 

 

 

[kencombs]

I wonder if one could use one of the expanding core plugs?  Drill a hole thru the center bolt and make an adapter to screw down over the bolt to attach to the fluid/pressure source.  Most I've seen use either a 5/16 or 3/8" bolt.  A 3/8 would be plenty thick to accept a 1/8" drilled hole.  The adapter would be a little different, but 1/2 of a disconnect with female threads could be plugged, drilled and tapped to match the bolt threads.  Getting a good seal with the bolt end would be tricky, but filed flat and fitted with a soft copper washer should (may) do it.

[Gnome]

I used this adapter when I did the scarebird disc brake conversion Motive pressure bleeder adapter

[Sniper]

Well, I bled the brakes today.  The Motive 1102 adapter screwed right in and sealed up properly.  Had no problems bleeding the brakes.

 

As an aside, the fluid all came out pretty clean and just slightly browner than the new fluid I put into the system. 

 

With the rusty hope disc brake kit the brake pedal moves about 2 inches and goes firm.  No road test yet, still have to finish the radiator fan install.  Maybe I'll work on that tomorrow.

[Burtbaccarat]

So I’ve searched on the site briefly as well as YouTube…

just changed the entire brake system in my 53 Cambridge…master cylinder, lines, and wheel cylinders…..

I’m awful green when it comes to drum brakes…is there a specific procedure for the fronts specifically since there are 2 cylinders on the wheel? The reason I ask is I vacuum bled all the cylinders and have fluid everywhere…. However, when I depress the brake pedal only the top cylinder actuates on the front brakes….this MAY be normal ….again, I’m green to drums….. but saw read somewhere that bleeding the fronts could get tricky…… and I didn’t find it tricky whatsoever…,so I wanted to make sure I didn’t do something wrong….

[Sniper]

Well, I have discs on my front end so I can't comment from experience.  But my service manual says to bleed the lower first to force all the out of the connecting line.  They are using the master cylinder to pressure bleed it, not sure how that would work using a vacuum pump.

[Burtbaccarat]

36 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Well, I have discs on my front end so I can't comment from experience.  But my service manual says to bleed the lower first to force all the out of the connecting line.  They are using the master cylinder to pressure bleed it, not sure how that would work using a vacuum 

no doubt…I vacuumed to get the fluid through the lines…once I got it there I did it the old fashioned way with holding the pedal and cracking the bleeder….I’m wondering if since I don’t have the drums on…if the top cylinders actuate and unless there is resistance from a drum…it doesn’t force as much pressure into the lowers? Who knows…

I’ll have to do the lowers first the old way and try to see if anything changes

[Sniper]

It also says to back off the shoe adjusters so that the cylinders can expand and get the air out.  Not having the drums on is probably your issue as you are probably running out of stroke in the master cylinder before the whee cylinder pops.  Put a strap around the shoes to hold them in and see if the lower cylinder starts working.

[squirebill]

Burtbaccarat:  did you install new wheel cylinders?  I installed new wheel cylinders on my truck and found that the piston bores were rusted on the outside of the piston and would not allow the cylinders to extend.  I stress that the rust was on the outside of the piston and can be seen by removing the large rubber dust cap on the wheel cylinder.  I started a topic "Rusty wheel cylinders" that has a picture.

[Burtbaccarat]

20 hours ago, squirebill said:

Burtbaccarat:  did you install new wheel cylinders?  I installed new wheel cylinders on my truck and found that the piston bores were rusted on the outside of the piston and would not allow the cylinders to extend.  I stress that the rust was on the outside of the piston and can be seen by removing the large rubber dust cap on the wheel cylinder.  I started a topic "Rusty wheel cylinders" that has a picture.

Yep, replaced all 6 cylinders on the car….I pulled off the caps when I had to attach the new “push rods” that connect to the pads….but didn’t take notice of any rust on the concave piston head inside……I certainly didn’t remove them for further inspection…so I guess I can’t be 100% confident that isn’t the issue….

thanks for the heads up

[Booger]

One of the few reasons to have children. Pump that peddle up

Take it to the floorboard. Can you handle that? Ok  ?

[Sniper]

Way cheaper to buy the pressure bleeder I mentioned, says the guy with four kids, lol.

[Booger]

7 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Way cheaper to buy the pressure bleeder I mentioned, says the guy with four kids, lol.

Sainthood, brother

[jsd245]

Pressure bleeder is the only way to go in my opinion. On my truck the MC cap thread is 1/2 npt so it was easy to make an adapter because motive  did not have one.