What battery size cable do I have?

[harmony]

Once again I apologize for not using the search engine.  I applaud anyone who can get successful results by using it. I tried entering *battery cable size* and on the first page of about 1800 plus related threads,  was one I just created about my clock because I used the word size in one of my posts.  Ok enough ranting.

I'm thinking I might just have regular size 12 volt battery cables.  I saw a chart that says a cable rated at 1/0 has a diameter of .575 in.  However I don't know if that is the outer diameter of the entire cable or the diameter of the copper?

The entire outer diameter of my cables is 7/16".  What gauge is that?

I should mention that I'm not complaining about how my car starts.  When the engine is hot and I've been driving for an hour or more.  After shutting down and restarting, the car starts the moment I push the button.  The only time it seems slow starting is when it sits for more than a week, or when it's really cold outside. But even then it fires up as soon as the float bowl gets some gas in it.  Usually the third or forth try of holding the starter button for maybe 4 or 5 seconds each time.

But if my cables are undersized and I'm putting a strain on the starter, solenoid or battery, I'm all for getting bigger cables.  By the way all the ends are in very good shape and my battery is almost new.

[Sam Buchanan]

Google really is your friend. 

 

Regardless of what size cables you have it looks like they are doing a pretty good job.

 

When you want to search the forum Google does a much better job than the forum search engine:

 

http://site:p15-d24.com battery cables

 

Wire gauge chart:

 

https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

 

0 conductor is 0.325".

 

Where I purchased my 1/0 cables with outside diameter of 0.530":

 

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/0-gauge-awg-ul-battery-cable-with-ends

 

 

 

 

Edited February 26, 2022 by Sam Buchanan

[harmony]

27 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

Google really is your friend. 

 

Wire gauge chart:

 

https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

 

0/1 conductor is 0.325".

 

Where I purchased my 1/0 cables:

 

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/0-gauge-awg-ul-battery-cable-with-ends

 

When you want to search the forum Google does a much better job than the forum search engine:

 

http://site:p15-d24.com battery cables

 

Regardless of what size cables you have it looks like they are doing a pretty good job.

Thanks, so it looks like the gauge of my cables are 2, correct?  Btw, the link for this forum that you gave failed.

Google doesn't like me, because when I searched I didn't get any of the links you just gave me.  Either did you tube.  

So since you have a 48 Plymouth I'm guessing it's safe to say that I should be using 1/0 cables, is that correct?

Edited February 26, 2022 by harmony

[Sniper]

Note that Sam's 6v cables are bigger than the lead battery clamp socket, where as my 12v ones are not, these are what my car came with when I bought it.  

 

 

 

 

[Sniper]

5 minutes ago, harmony said:

Btw, the link for this forum that you gave failed.

 

You need to copy and paste the link into your search window

 

Example search

 

You'd keep the http://site:p15-d24.com  part but change the "battery cables" to whatever you wanted to search for Such as http://site:p15-d24.com sniper and you would get this.

Edited February 26, 2022 by Sniper

[kencombs]

23 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

Google really is your friend. 

 

Regardless of what size cables you have it looks like they are doing a pretty good job.

 

When you want to search the forum Google does a much better job than the forum search engine:

 

http://site:p15-d24.com battery cables

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More on the search function.  Sam is absolutely right!  In addition I'll offer this, works on duckduckgo too!

 

I use firefox and have the search box selected to view. 

entering the search parameters in it then the enter key causes a search using my default search engine.  If the default is google it works, same if my default is set as duckduckgo.  No need to be on the  google, or duckduckgo site.  In addition, the http://, is not required either.

Edited February 26, 2022 by kencombs

[harmony]

3 minutes ago, harmony said:

Thanks, so it looks like the gauge of my cables are 4, correct?  Btw, the link for this forum that you gave failed.

Google doesn't like me, because when I searched I didn't get any of the links you just gave me.  Either did you tube.  

So since you have a 48 Plymouth I'm guessing it's safe to say that I should be using 1/0 cables, is that correct?

On second look, the powerstream

 

5 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Note that Sam's 6v cables are bigger than the lead battery clamp socket, where as my 12v ones are not, these are what my car came with when I bought it.  

 

 

 

 

mine look about the same size as yours Sniper

[Sniper]

Then you have 12v cables.  I will admit I had no issues starting my car with those cables when it was still running the v setup.  But it was not a hard starting car and I never tried in below freezing weather, nor do I run 20w50 oil which is like tar in below freezing weather. 

[harmony]

10 minutes ago, Sniper said:

 

You need to copy and paste the link into your search window

 

Example search

 

You'd keep the http://site:p15-d24.com  part but change the "battery cables" to whatever you wanted to search for Such as http://site:p15-d24.com sniper and you would get this.

Well I'll be damned!!  I had no idea about this way of searching.  Thanks Sniper. So you just leave a space between .com and what you're looking for?

[Sniper]

Just now, harmony said:

So you just leave a space between .com and what you're looking for?

 

Yes.  Funny thing is I never used anything but the site search function here.  It's archaic in it's methodology, but so am I and I am comfortable with it's old style search algorithms. 

 

[harmony]

Just now, Sniper said:

Then you have 12v cables.  I will admit I had no issues starting my car with those cables when it was still running the v setup.  But it was not a hard starting car and I never tried in below freezing weather, nor do I run 20w50 oil which is like tar in below freezing weather. 

I use just 10W30.  So from what you're saying or not saying, it seems like what I have is just fine, right?

[Sniper]

Well, it works for you.  If starting becomes hard keep it in mind as a possible issue.  Also keep in mind that you are probably overtaxing the cables you have and while they are clean and new with a good connection you have no slack to spare.  Whereas the correct cables are more than enough and to spare for the job at hand.  Voltage drop test will tell you the tale more than anything else.

Edited February 26, 2022 by Sniper
some typos

[harmony]

1 minute ago, Sniper said:

Well, it works for you.  If starting becomes hard keep it in mind as a possible issue.  Just keep in mind that you are probably overtaxing the cables you have and while they are clean and new with a good connection you have to slack to spare.  Whereas the correct cables are more than enough and to spare for the job at hand.  Voltage drop test will tell you the tale more than anything else.

Cool!  Yes I remember reading a thread very recently where you mentioned about how to conduct a voltage drop test.  I was about to do that the next day when I arrived at my shop and then my mind went straight to the daily task at hand and I forgot all about it.  This is a perfect opportunity for me to use the search method you just pointed out with your name after the .com.  Because my brain is programmed to immediately forget anything I've just learned or read about electricity.  Maybe there is a pill I can take to correct that because scolding myself just doesn't seem to work.

[Bryan]

On the forum's search engine you HAVE to check the "Use all of the search terms" on the right side a little further down.   The search engine's default is "any of the terms" which will show everything.

[harmony]

46 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

Google really is your friend. 

 

Regardless of what size cables you have it looks like they are doing a pretty good job.

 

When you want to search the forum Google does a much better job than the forum search engine:

 

http://site:p15-d24.com battery cables

 

Wire gauge chart:

 

https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

 

0 conductor is 0.325".

 

Where I purchased my 1/0 cables with outside diameter of 0.530":

 

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/0-gauge-awg-ul-battery-cable-with-ends

 

 

 

 

Those are some big ass cables for sure.  I've made notes about your info on my phone ( my portable brain)  so I won't pester everybody about this again.  As I've mentioned before I'm stupid as a stick when it comes to electricity.

[keithb7]

Longer cranking times after sitting for a few weeks is normal. Fuel system pressure in the lines drops. Cranking the engine over operates the mechanical fuel pump. It takes  some time to refill the fuel system and get fuel up to the bowl, and into the intake manifold.  Larger battery cables won't hurt, but may not alleviate the delayed fuel delivery. It may a little, if the engine is cranking over faster than with smaller cables. However just larger cables may only be part of the solution.

 

A solution that works extremely well for me, is the 6V electric fuel pump. In-line. Mine is after the mechanical fuel pump and still works just fine. I get in the car, Turn the key on to power the system, flip on the electric  fuel pump switch for 10 or so seconds. It fills the fuel lines and builds pressure. Fills the float bowl.  I turn off the electric pump. Then I pump the gas pedal 1 time. This cycles a raw jet of fuel from the accelerator pump in to the carb venturi. Then I crank the starter over and the engine starts very quickly. Eliminating all strain on the starter.  I run and drive with the mechanical, stock fuel pump.

 

It helps tremendously to have a healthy, well tuned engine as well.  Good compression. No carb air leaks, working choke, spark, timing, dwell, good sealed valves, no vacuum leaks. These all go a long ways for a quick starting engine! I am a believer after the massive improvements I see consistently every time I start my fresh rebuilt engine.

Edited February 26, 2022 by keithb7

[harmony]

4 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

Longer cranking times after sitting for a few weeks is normal. Fuel system pressure in the lines drops. Cranking the engine over operates the mechanical fuel pump. It takes  some time to refill the fuel system and get fuel up to the bowl, and into the intake manifold.  Larger battery cables won't hurt, but may not alleviate the delayed fuel delivery. It may a little, if the engine is cranking over faster than with smaller cables. However just larger cables may only be part of the solution.

 

A solution that works extremely well for me, is the 6V electric fuel pump. In-line. Mine is after the mechanical fuel pump and still works just fine. I get in the car, Turn the key on to power the system, flip on the electric  fuel pump switch for 10 or so seconds. It fills the fuel lines and builds pressure. Fills the float bowl.  I turn off the electric pump. Then I pump the gas pedal 1 time. This cycles a raw jet of fuel from the accelerator pump in to the carb venturi. Then I crank the starter over and the engine starts very quickly. Eliminating all strain on the starter.  I run and drive with the mechanical, stock fuel pump.

 

It helps tremendously to have a healthy, well tuned engine as well.  Good compression. No carb air leaks, working choke, spark, timing, dwell, good sealed valves, no vacuum leaks. These all go a long ways for a quick starting engine! I am a believer after the massive improvements I see consistently every time I start my fresh rebuilt engine.

But don't you have to run a vent line to the fuel tank for those electric fuel pumps? 

[keithb7]

7 minutes ago, harmony said:

But don't you have to run a vent line to the fuel tank for those electric fuel pumps? 

No. Not at all. The electric does not run full time. Only when I want to prime the system. Or suffer a little vapor lock on a hot summer Kamloops day. I can purge fuel through the system by cycling the fuel pump if needed. Sort of a little turbo boost for the stock mechanical system. The switch, I mounted it easily within grasp of me while driving.

 

The electric pump I run only makes about 4-5 psi pressure.

Edited February 26, 2022 by keithb7

[harmony]

3 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

No. Not at all. The electric does not run full time. Only when I want to prime the system. Or suffer a little vapor lock on a hot summer Kamloops day. I can purge fuel through the system by cycling the fuel pump if needed. Sort of a little turbo boost for the stock mechanical system. The switch, I mounted it easily within grasp of me while driving.

 

The electric pump I run only makes about 4-5 psi pressure.

Ohhh  right.  I recall your video now about when you did that.  So I'm guessing the vent is only required if you were using just the electric pump full time and blocked off the engine block where the original fuel pump was, correct?  I remember you had an issue with the pressure setting I believe.  I better go back and watch it again to refresh my memory.  

[keithb7]

The fuel pressure problem was with my 1938 Chrysler Coupe. When I bought it, it had the incorrect fuel pump on it. It was making too much pressure. So the previous owner installed a regulator. My 1938 Sedan Plymouth has no such problem. I don't think I have produced a video on my Sedan fuel system.

[harmony]

I'm thinking I almost hijacked my own post here. 

Thanks for all the input and advise on setting me straight regarding my battery cables.  

[harmony]

I was digging through my storage room and I found a battery cable I had forgotten that I had.  It's over 6 feet long so it would be more than long enough to do both my battery cables.  It's pretty big though. The wire is about 9/16" dia. and the overall outer dia. is 3/4"  From the links I was given here by Sam, I think that makes it a 4/0 gauge, right?

Am I going to be able to find some ends for it to go on to my battery posts?

[Sniper]

problem isn't getting the connectors, it's being able to properly install them.  Any electrical supply house, or even hardware store should have the lugs you need.

[harmony]

8 minutes ago, Sniper said:

problem isn't getting the connectors, it's being able to properly install them.  Any electrical supply house, or even hardware store should have the lugs you need.

I know a marine electrician who recently wired in a 24 volt system into my yacht for a bow thruster I had just installed and I remember when he was making custom battery cables he had a monster tool for crimping on the ends.  So maybe I'll trade him a large box of beer for making me up a pair of cables.

[keithb7]

You can also put the cable end in a vice. Cup upward. Heat it up with propane torch. Melt lots of solder in there. A nice cauldron it becomes. Be on the ready with your battery cable already stripped back the right amount. Push the exposed copper strand end, into the hot vat of solder. Push it in hard. Hit the bottom. And be quick like a bunny. It cools and is glued in there real good. It works and you can make your own cables at home. As good as crushed mechanical connection? Not quite probably.  @Sniper can confirm. We are very fortunate have a resident industrial electrical coach here.

 

For me many years later, I still have battery cables working fine. 6V and 12V. Cars and diesels start  up well. I probably should think about a tool to crush cable ends. But what fun would that be?  You know, risking mechanical reliability to save a couple bucks.

Edited March 5, 2022 by keithb7