Getting my 46 WD15 repaired and back on the road

[lostviking]

After the horror of losing a front tire on my test drive, it's time to stopping crying and get the girl repaired. The details of what I know about the event are in another thread. This one is about fixing what happened.

 

So, at 15-20MPH the drivers front tire came off. It went mostly out the opening, but caught the fender bending it up pretty badly, and causing some damage to where the fender met the cab. The tire then went under the running board it seems, and bent it up, forcing it upwards into the lower side of the cab under the door. The running board mount was pulled loose from what looks like a rivet on the bottom, mushrooming the metal.

 

I need to get the running board mount off the truck to flatten the mushroom out, then reattach it. Right now it doesn't give me room the fix the bottom of the cab.

 

I took some horror shots, but I had already started some of the repair.

 

This is part of where the front fender bent the cab. I was able to pop most of it out from inside the foot well area. The previous owner snapped off the original mounting bolts and replaced them here. On the other side, he just left the broken off bolts in the cab. At some point, I'll drill them out with a Kobalt drill and see if I can retap. 

 

 

This is where I stared body work already. I watched quite a few pros on YouTube over the last week. It was pretty amazing seeing the dent disappear, but I'm not a pro. It was pretty deep and there was a crease up to the front edge. Off dolly tapping and patients. It isn't finished but my arms get tired easy and I didn't want to mess it up due to that. I'll take my time.

Edited February 5, 2022 by lostviking
Can't put comments or order the pictures otherwise.

[lostviking]

More shots of the damage. You can't see it very well in the picture, but there is a fold line all along this part. The spot welds (?) at the very rear edge failed and it was pushed in. I'll have to get the running board mount fixed to get this part back into it's proper position.

 

 

Edited February 5, 2022 by lostviking
typo

[lostviking]

I wish this was the worst for the front fender.

 

But it wasn't.

 

 

Edited February 5, 2022 by lostviking

[Young Ed]

If it helps from the factory the fender wasn't connected to the cab. It's not easy to get in there and grind those rivets off but once you get that far it's no big deal to bolt the running board hanger on. All 4 of mine are bolted on with grade 8s.

[lostviking]

Couple more shots, of the running board. Even though the rear inside part of the front fender looked bad, this is the one I'm most worried about fixing. That metal is thick.

[lostviking]

The parts in the pictures were just being stored in the truck bed. Stock rotors from my Challenger, stock rods and pistons from the 218 I tore down and the stock front brakes from the truck.

 

Oh, the rotor didn't make a great wheel, but the front brakes did stop. The rotor was ground when I hit the brakes after getting to the side of the road. They seemed to work pretty good.

 

The new wheels.

[lostviking]

6 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

If it helps from the factory the fender wasn't connected to the cab. It's not easy to get in there and grind those rivets off but once you get that far it's no big deal to bolt the running board hanger on. All 4 of mine are bolted on with grade 8s.

That weird, because there are cutouts in the fender lip, and on the passengers side there are two broken off bolts in threaded inserts. Wonder if that is a 3/4 ton thing. I'll have to go look at the parts manual. I figured the PO wouldn't have added them, but no telling.

[Young Ed]

2 hours ago, lostviking said:

That weird, because there are cutouts in the fender lip, and on the passengers side there are two broken off bolts in threaded inserts. Wonder if that is a 3/4 ton thing. I'll have to go look at the parts manual. I figured the PO wouldn't have added them, but no telling.

Same fenders 1/2-1ton. There should be a thick rubber piece that goes between cab and fender. Fender is held by inner fender and then attaching to top of running board 

[kencombs]

That running board is going to be a challenge. I think I'd be figuring out a way to get it in the shop press.  Maybe a couple of pieces of heavy channel to sandwich it.  Gonna try that with my tailgate's bottom tube to get the bow out.

[lostviking]

26 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

Same fenders 1/2-1ton. There should be a thick rubber piece that goes between cab and fender. Fender is held by inner fender and then attaching to top of running board 

The PO didn't use any of the correct "gaskets" between sheet metal. I'll use it when I put it back together, and probably do the other side. I wonder what those broken off bolts/screw are then. It's almost impossible to get at that side right now, it's against the garage wall. Once I can move the truck I'll take a better picture and discuss it. I don't put it past the PO for modifying things.

[lostviking]

28 minutes ago, kencombs said:

That running board is going to be a challenge. I think I'd be figuring out a way to get it in the shop press.  Maybe a couple of pieces of heavy channel to sandwich it.  Gonna try that with my tailgate's bottom tube to get the bow out.

Challenge is putting it lightly  Maybe sand bags and a BFH. I don't want to mess up the pattern on the surface, so I have no idea right now.  I won't be hitting the metal direct or I'd just smooth out the texture and destroy them.

 

I'll buy fiberglass as a last resort only.

Edited February 5, 2022 by lostviking

[lostviking]

Just before the horror...Coming back from the laps around the block

 

Readjusting the rear brakes before I left on the next test drive.

Edited February 5, 2022 by lostviking

[Young Ed]

1 hour ago, lostviking said:

The PO didn't use any of the correct "gaskets" between sheet metal. I'll use it when I put it back together, and probably do the other side. I wonder what those broken off bolts/screw are then. It's almost impossible to get at that side right now, it's against the garage wall. Once I can move the truck I'll take a better picture and discuss it. I don't put it past the PO for modifying things.

Someone did the same on my truck. A couple of hokey screws into the cab and no gaskets. 

[lostviking]

Just got the .25 inch spacers. In case anyone was interested, 15x7 wheels with a 4 inch back space will fit if you add a .25 inch spacer. I think it could have been a bit thinner, maybe even .125. These rims are intended to fit a Cherokee.

[Los_Control]

Sorry for your loss .... I am excited to hear about your upcoming new sheet metal skills.

 

A few years ago I was involved in a transaction of a 1940's travel trailer being transferred to a niece.

The wheels and brakes were shot. To get it to travel 300 miles to new home we had some work to do.

 

We had a set of Torque thrust mags from the '60's that fit the bolt pattern.

We also had a tire machine and installed decent tires.

 

We had to buy new short shank wheel lugs to bolt them on.

The modern lug bolts were too fat to fit the wheels .... had to drill the wheels out a few thousands to accept the modern lug bolts.

 

The wheels all seemed to tighten up well when installed. 300 miles later 1 came loose.

The fix was to cut 1/4" off the shank of the lug bolts so they actually tightened properly.

 

Just saying not only did the wheels need modification also the new lugs.

 

 

 

[Veemoney]

Viking,

Pictures speak for themselves, WOW.  Glad to see you digging in at it and the new thread for progress. Before you grab the hammers make sure to get some good ear protection. 

[lostviking]

Here is a quick shot of everywhere on the cab that has damage. It might just be the paint was damaged, or it might be one of the places that needs metal work, but here it is. AND, the two holes that shouldn't be there I need to weld shut.

 

Edited February 6, 2022 by lostviking

[lostviking]

Not horrible. I sure wish I would have just bought them to begin with.

 

 

[lostviking]

Got the front cab area where the fender will sit about as flat as my skills will get it. Pretty thin skim of filler and some sanding. I bought some paintless repair tools, at least a punch looking tool with interchangeable plastic tips. Works pretty good for knocking peaks back down. I had to cut the inner support of in that area. I'll weld it back in later. Still can't get a dolly everywhere I wanted it. I watched a lot of videos...that off dolly hammering really does work on dents. I'll never get them as good as the experts, but good enough.

I bought some of those pads for your 5 inch grinder that remove paint without damaging the metal. They work great. I mean great. Not a bit of damage to the metal and clean as a whistle.

Went to skim the filler on today and my bondo had hardened up in the can. I'll have to get some more to finish this job. Any dents that are left are maybe .060 deep or so. 

 

[lostviking]

Here is the section I'm ready to put some filler on. You can see the remains of a long crease just above the yellow line. There are a couple small dents that didn't show up very well in the picture where I circled. As you can see, the paint removal works a charm.

[lostviking]

I have been able to source new running boards. They are repops and smooth on top, but otherwise true to the originals. You can find them in a number of places. Funny thing is I found them at Walmart online also. $80 less than everywhere else too. I think I'll buy a set, because you can only buy them in sets, and then sell my good one. That just leaves the work on the fender. Haven't found any to buy, so I'm going to have at it. What's the worst I can do, bend it?

[kencombs]

57 minutes ago, lostviking said:

Here is the section I'm ready to put some filler on. You can see the remains of a long crease just above the yellow line. There are a couple small dents that didn't show up very well in the picture where I circled. As you can see, the paint removal works a charm.

 

Yep, those paint stripper disks work great.  I've gone through 15 or so on my truck so far.  If anyone wants to try them, I was able to order on line at less that half the local store prices.  Locals had them priced for 10 bucks all the way up to 15something.  They are also available in 2" size for use on die grinders for tight spots.  Those worked excellent on the glass pinch welds, dash corners etc.

 

I started with 80 grit  disks, on a 7" grinder, or on my buffer to keep them from clogging, 4.5" grinder, then started using a heat gun and razor scraper.   That was because in some places I was taking off 4 to 6 layers of paint!  And body filler.  Then I cleaned up the remaining stuff with the disks. In areas where there was not so much paint, the disks alone worked really well.

 

Heat gun and scraper produce no dust, and that is a good in the shop

[lostviking]

Yep. I now love them.

 

Got the lower cab side panel ready for a skim coat today. After I figured out (confirmed in another thread by 9 Foot Box) that the brace at the front of it bolts to the cab floor, I was able to get it bolted in place, then I used a hardwood dowel and fulcrum to bend it back into shape. A few places along the bottom flange got wrinkled in the disaster, but a couple strips of old 1.5 inch oak flooring and a small C-clamp set that right. I clamped a couple pieces of that oak along the bottom in a couple places and gently pulled to take out a slight bend.

After that I pulled the welder out and welded the rear hidden flange back to the rear cab. That whole side is now ready for a filler skim coat  and some sanding. Then on to the fender.

 

Here are a couple pictures of where I am at, and the weld.

 

 

[lostviking]

Too big for one post...

 

You can see the dust along the bottom from me stripping the side...and the high quality paint work that was on the truck. Those drips really give you an idea why I always referred to the paint as a "20 ft paint job".

 

Oh, the short dark bead along the very bottom is my work. The other was there

Edited February 20, 2022 by lostviking

[lostviking]

I've been using a hammer and dolly plus some heat shrinking to get the metal as flat as my skills allow. Today I hit it with some 80 grit on my dual action, then put down a thin coat of filler. I don't like the idea of covering everything and then sanding for days to get a mirror finish. It will never be a show truck, it's a driver. So only places that were still low got anything, with a bit of overlap for feathering.