'53 B-4TA-190 Fire Engine

[Dodgeb4ya]

There could be...but I try to buy like new packaged NOS items.

I have two or three of most all ignition parts for each car and truck/ (trucks).

Yes there could be a dead part in some of these parts stash but I have another back up part just  in case.

The new ignition parts made for these old MoPar  flatheads today are total junk....way worse than70 year old big brand name NOS parts IMO.

NOS ignition point contacts always should be cleaned of storage corrosion before using....a light brushing and use of contact cleaner.

 

Edited August 8, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya

[E37Bruco]

What oil are you using?

[Dodgeb4ya]

I use straight detergent 30W in my trucks. Have for years.

Use what you like...wouldn't use synthetic though...oil leaks.

[wallytoo]

nice job on the parade, and solving the running issue (points/condenser).

 

i echo bob's thoughts on the 2-speed.  it shouldn't be able to upshift unless you pull the button.  otherwise, the default - and the spring at the "can" on the axle - should be to pull the lever into low range.

 

i know my medium duty truck isn't the same as the big block in that, but i run 15w-40 and it seems to like it just fine.  40 to 43 psi at driving rpm, and about 35 to 40 psi at idle.  i do drive it year-round, so it sees winter operation at -10F (and sometimes colder).  hasn't been a problem, still starts very well at cold temps.

 

keep up the good work, and keep putting up photos!

Edited August 30, 2023 by wallytoo

[E37Bruco]

I've seen a lot of 15w-40 which is why I asked. I currently have 10w-30 with marvel mystery oil just to clean the block out some. Was debating what to use for good when I change this soon.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Type of oil usage is a pretty controversial subject.

Any modern day engine oil is way better than any oils available 70 years ago.

I like to see my oil pressure to be the highest it can be when really hot... idling and at speed. Just me.

I also am one to never mix brands and change non synthetic oil yearly or every 3000 miles.

This for all my old cars, trucks,and equipment machinery.

 

 

 

[E37Bruco]

I'm stumped again. They're to not seem to be a way to pull the seal down from the bottom because of this metal ring. I pulled the steering gear out and attempted to push everything up and I can't get that to budge. Thoughts?

[Dodgeb4ya]

That steel ring will be part of the sector shaft  seal.

Pull it all out.

Be careful to not damge the bushing above it.

 

[E37Bruco]

Well that wasn't too bad to do once I popped the old seal out. All good now and the steering gears are properly adjusted. Handles great 

[E37Bruco]

So I've been busy. Today I took the Dodge for the first road test since it died on us in July. Pulled out no problem. Got up to 4th gear and she starts hesitating. Downshift and cut thru a side street to be safe. Back fires, struggles. Get to the gas station (which was closed grrr) and now she's not happy at all trying to get back on the road. The new condenser got it idling great and moved it to and from the parking lot. But why is it hating the road. 

 

Occasionally backfiring. Blue smoke also occasionally. I'll check compression. Someone thinks it's starving for fuel, maybe the pump lobe went bad. It's really just under load now it struggles. Both fuel bowls are full. No sediment or water there that I am see.

 

 

....?

Edited October 20, 2023 by E37Bruco

[E37Bruco]

https://youtube.com/shorts/-alIOWVHRq0?feature=shared

 

Bad fuel maybe?

 

Sounds like a popcorn machine 

 

Edited October 20, 2023 by E37Bruco

[Dodgeb4ya]

I think it's an ignition/electrical issue.

Good distributor housing to block ground?

Primary wiring feeding coil and distributor 100%?

Also back to points condensor issue..

These big blocks really do start and run well...

Edited October 22, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya

[E37Bruco]

Remove the 2 bolts at the base of the distributor and clean up the mating surface? 

 

I ordered spare points, rotor, and cap last time so I'll try those. I'll try new wires too. Any suggestions on where? I got these "crimp them yourself" wires from DCM

[Dodgeb4ya]

⁰Sometimes engines that sat for a long time can get corrosion where the distributor mounts high up on the block asittle oil splash gets up there.

Yes carefully note the posution of the distributor mounting plate and rotor postions. Remove the two 7/16" mount bolts to remove the distributor.

I'd clean up the mounting surfaces to be sure of a good ground.

And inspect the distributor on the bench as long as it's already out.

***Check the distributor shaft for any looseness in the housing bushings...

***recheck the points for .020" gap and look at condition of the point contacts- being new they still could be of low quality and be slightly pitted or dis-colored..maybe replace them..

***that new condensor possibly is offshore? Or Shorted....Install another one.

*** make sure the round and "L" shaped spring clip is still pushed up in the rotor see pic.

***I cannot say who to purchase wires from. I  have always used the correct crimpers and strippers to make up high quality plug wire sets for my and other peoples engines.

I have never liked the cheap wire sets sold for most of our MoPar flatheads.

***I assume you are using solid core wire?

***IDK what distributor cap terminal wire ends you have on your wires...hopefully something better than the cheap brass style with the three triangle points you use pliers to sqeeze them tight to the wire cable ends.

See terminal pics..

Make sure you spark plug cable inner core strands make a good connection to the terminal ends and are crimped well. 

Pics just show the way I do the plug wires...most don't have this capability...I get that.

I don't think spark plug wires are causing your issue as long as they are dry and are firmly attached at each end.

Be sure that the ignition switch wire going to the engine ignition coil is tight at the switch and coil.

 

[E37Bruco]

Ya I'm using the wires from DCM that I "crimped" using the triangles lol

[E37Bruco]

out of curiosity, what plugs are you running in your big blocks? Manual says AR-5A but I have no clue what that equals today. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

I have been using Autolite 295 plugs in my Moly Block engines for many years.

[E37Bruco]

Oh..... I got 306s in mine.... Which I can only assume is because of the fire department radio that was in it

Edited November 8, 2023 by E37Bruco

[E37Bruco]

That's a lot of soot for plugs with less than 100 miles. I assume from the backfires

[Dodgeb4ya]

Those are really sooted up.

306's should be fine to run...just a resistor plug...heat range is near the same as a 295.

Those plugs are not hardly firing.

The exhaust must be blowing black smoke some what?

If so are the carbs flooding excess fuel onto the top of the throttle plates while idling...?

Those plugs are black and sooty from too much fuel and or oil.

Looks mostly like excess fuel.

Have you run it with new plugs yet to see if it runs normal...?

The crazy loud back firing you have is obviously caused by excess unburned fuel in the exhaust being ignited.

Not being there and hearing the engine run in person is tough to quickly try to help you out. 

Standing back at the tail pipes while the engine  is fully warmed up and idling or revved up the exhaust should sound very smooth with NO misfiring.

These Moly big blocks normally just run and run and run....perfectly smooth  and reliably.

Yours will too...just a small battle to get there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[E37Bruco]

So the gas station we filled up from in July is closed, rumor is water in the gas... Haha this be our cause? I'll drain the tank and examine.

 

I got new plug wires to try next time. My homemade ones were obviously garbage and not working properly. I'll try new spark plugs at the same time. 

[bkahler]

My one big experience with water in the gas is the engine would run a little rough at first, and then run rougher and rougher until the float bowls filled up with water at which point the engine stops running.  I confirmed this was the case by pulling the fuel bowls (Triumph Spitfire twin carb engine) and dumping the water out.  I'd reassemble everything and the engine would start, run rough until the float bowls filled up with water again, at which point the engine would stall out.  We were able to get about 1-1/2 to 2 miles before I had to repeat the process.  I was fifteen miles from home so I got the routine down pretty good

 

 

[Los_Control]

I experienced water in the gas one time, it is not easy to diagnose imho.

Many years ago it was a off topic plymouth mini van. .... It ran ok .... just fine. Then for a example going to pass a semi truck and get in the left lane of freeway and pick up speed. Get up to about the doors on the semi then it would fall on it's face.

Would end up slowing down and getting back in the right lane behind the semi.

Kind of dangerous in my opinion.

 

The water is heavier then the gasoline, so it just kinda hangs out at the bottom of your tank ..... When you really start to burn some fuel passing another vehicle then the water gets picked up and spoils the fun.

I fought this issue for a long time and could not figure it out. I sent it to a shop and paid for the deluxe tune up ... told them my issue. .... I had to wait my turn of 2 weeks just to get in line as it was a very expensive well known shop .... I ended up with gold plated spark plug wires ? ..... still had the same problem.

 

I got so mad at it I just parked it for 6 months and never drove it.

Then I thought about water in the gas, I had like 3/4 a tank of gas in it and added a bottle of heet to it and took it for a long drive to burn out the fuel. .... I did not see the problem again.

 

Seems the chemicals in heet allow the heavier water to mix with the gasoline and it all gets burned together.

I noticed the performance was not as good as normal ..... like the mixed water/fuel lowered the octane rating.

The next tank of fuel performance  was right where it should be. It was a $1 fix at the local gas station.

 

I suppose it depends how much water you have in your tank as to how it runs .... A bottle of heet is pretty cheap insurance.

I started adding it to my tank in all my vehicles once a year .... been several years though as I have forgot to do it   ?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Water in the gas!

If so you better drain the tank 100% and get all traces of it out.

Add some gas drter upon refill.

I remember now a friend had a old econoline back in the late  70's that ran erractically...

We finally figured out it was maybe a gas issue. He had recently filled the tank.

Started draing the tank.

Ended up that there was about a half gallon on water in it..

Edited November 9, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya

[Young Ed]

A couple summers ago I had about half gas half water in my 47. I bought a funnel on Amazon that filters the water out and let's the gas through. I did that and then added some heat just in case it missed a little