E37Bruco

Ok thanks. That seal should be here later next week. Then I can throw this all back together and road test it again for rear axle behavior. Otherwise we dive into body work!

I'm not sure when I'll be at the truck again but looking at the diaphragm cleaned up I found a seal where that barrel slides. Ordered a new Timken version of it 🤞 (480356). I'll still look to see if there's a seal between the shaft and that barrel.

That diaphragm was FULL lol but after cleaning everything up the rubber looks great. Sprayed it with some wd40, gonna eat it sit then some meguiars rubber conditioner There's a race that the shaft slides on. But I see no remnants of a seal on this side of the setup

Yeah I'm going to take this home and do it on my bench 😳

Oh fun hahaha But is oil present on the axle side of the diaphragm normal? Just seems weird if there's nothing preventing engine vacuum from pulling gear oil

Okay next time I'm there I'll pull that apart. The condition of the rubber hose and what I saw from that little inspection plug on top look like there was a good coating of oil all through the vacuum diaphragm assembly. If this is an issue do you believe I'd be able to send this shifting diaphragm to white post?

We are pretty focused on body work here now. Took some work to pull the rusted water tank out. I'm taking this opportunity to replace the rubber vacuum hose for the rear axle shift. When I pulled it I found gear oil inside it. I removed the little plug on top of the vacuum actuator and you can see everything in there has a residue of oil. Is this normal?

Lol I'm not there yet. Can't get downshifting figured out yet. I'm doing a lot better moving up the gears tho.

Look at you with factory fresh air lol

Is the threaded hole on the bottom solely for securing it to the firewall bracket? Just making sure that doesn't need plugged

This is the vavle I have. Not the Eaton one. Part number brought up a Ford one on eBay. There it showed the bottom port plugged. Mine isn't. (Photo is rotated sorry) mines intake vacuum on the left, to rear axle on the right, speedo adapter out the back. With the adjustments it's definitely an easier movement and can feel the click when pushed in. Drove it a little without issue but really need to get it up to higher speeds to test.

Going thru photos i found this. If I drove with it like this it would be in high

Ok. I plan on removing the shift control cable and vacuum valve to go through them meticulously. There isn't a lot of travel going from low to hi, it only moves maybe 1-1.5" up. I wonder if it's never really pushed down enough for low to maintain. I saw a video of a Chevy 2speed rear and that control knob came up like 3".

Road test went amazing! She has so much power and purrs right along. No issues again with the engine. Also the rear 2speed is still trying to switch to high while you're in 4th and 5th cruising. Should I pull the diaphragm and have it rebuilt? Maybe a broken spring? Can also hear the gears back there occasionally when coming to a stop with the clutch disengaged, like the shift forks bouncing between high and low, or bad backlash on the ring/pinion. It's not all the time tho so i want to rule out the ring/pinion.

Disregard. Got it broke loose. Set at 3° advanced. 520rpm idle and mixture screws set. Time for road test.

Ok. I'm idling at 500rpms. Still at 0° timing. Trying to advance it some. The distributor will not rotate at all. The plate on the bottom does if you loosen the 2 bolts into the block and the bottom bolt that looks like a shaft clamp. My assumption is the bottom clamp bolt is supposed to stay time and the distributor rotates.

No I have not. I started looking into it and I can't remember why I stopped

Got all these damn gas leaks fixed haha. I have the motor currently at TDC, will set the timing. Also cylinder #6 is 5" of stroke, so she's a 377

Is this the #6 plug you pull to check tdc and cylinder travel

That's gonna be fun to clean up so I can read the notches haha I have an timing light with a digital tach and advance indicator. So I can get it to 2240 rpms and check the advancement. Is it still timing light on cyl 1? That's more so my confusion with all the cylinder 6 talk in the book. I'll have to look closely then to find the cylinder 6 peep plug. I think it's hidden under the massive throttle linkage. Also if I'm reading the book correct, the 1 mark on the distributor indicator should mean I'm roughly 2° advanced currently? If everything is right

Drained the rear tank, filled the front with fresh gas. Fixed a small leak on the rear ....found a leak on the front ??Waiting on new plug wires still, been swamped between work and hunting season. --------------- Once I get her fired back up, what's the best way and order to adjust timing, idle rpm, idle mixture? I'm struggling to understand the timing instructions, it says timing is TDC with mechanical advancement max 16-20* at 2240rpms....so 0* at idle and throttle up to 2240 and be between 16-20*? Then it also mentions +/-4* is acceptable at idle and references the distributor plate markings lol I got timing light with a tachometer on it that works with 6 VOLT motors. Also is it cylinder 1 or 6 haha everyone says different things. I know 450-500rpm is idle, the idle mixture screws are currently 1 screw rotation out per manual. Then it says to fine tune that with a vacuum gauge, is that adjust until the vacuum reaches its high amount with a indicator steady needle? I assume remove the plug below the carb and screw in a vacuum gauge there. I'll have to make an adapter.

So the gas station we filled up from in July is closed, rumor is water in the gas... Haha this be our cause? I'll drain the tank and examine. I got new plug wires to try next time. My homemade ones were obviously garbage and not working properly. I'll try new spark plugs at the same time.

That's a lot of soot for plugs with less than 100 miles. I assume from the backfires

Oh..... I got 306s in mine.... Which I can only assume is because of the fire department radio that was in it

out of curiosity, what plugs are you running in your big blocks? Manual says AR-5A but I have no clue what that equals today.